I just bought a Vintageshovelnose kit i have desingned and built many wood boats but have never put together a abs hull . The instuction sheet is very general info. 1 What is the best method of washing realease agents from abs? 2 It says to block sand the radius out of the transom there is a large radius i figure by the time it would be sanded there would be no material what glue or filler putty would stick to abs the best that could be sanded down to give me a razor edge? 3 What about the webbing at the sponson transom if that is removed i have two holes to fill? 4 Front sponsons have rounded edges should i glue a ride pad ? What material and how thick ? should the edges overhang the transom and tunnel side and nontrip side and by how much? 5 What is the best glue to use for abs to wood and abs to abs ? 6 For rudder servo it shows mounted on starboard side my experience with sport hydros the rudder is mounted on the port side what size and torque rating servo is required for 12 cells and Cordite motor? For mounting battery packs is velcro glued to hull bottom still best method ? I realize these are loaded question s but any help would be great.
Building ?Climate Vintageshovelnose
- Thread starter riggerman
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Scott_T
Well-Known Member
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- Feb 23, 2005
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I haven't built this particular boat, but I have some experience with ABS/wood hulls, so I'll give it a go!
1. I normally rub the hull inside and out with #220 or #400.
2. Use Squadron Putty on any rounded edges that you want to be sharp. After block sanding it, seal with some CA, or primer/paint etc.
3. If removing the webbing leaves a hole, maybe some fibreglass matt CA'd to the inside, then Squadron Putty on the outside? Someone with experience of this hull should answer that better.
4. I would just use the putty again to sharpen up the edges.
5. I use medium CA for everything in my boats, and they've taken a pounding. Epoxy does not stick well to ABS, so avoid if you can.
6. I would go for a port-mounted rudder. Again, I don't have this hull, but my Aussie Shovel turns great with a port rudder, and a cheap, standard servo. Some guys use the smaller Hitec servos, but I can't remember the model numbers.
7. Velcro should work just fine. I use the sticky-backed stuff, and it is good. Use plenty of it if you have any doubts.
Cheers,
Scott.
1. I normally rub the hull inside and out with #220 or #400.
2. Use Squadron Putty on any rounded edges that you want to be sharp. After block sanding it, seal with some CA, or primer/paint etc.
3. If removing the webbing leaves a hole, maybe some fibreglass matt CA'd to the inside, then Squadron Putty on the outside? Someone with experience of this hull should answer that better.
4. I would just use the putty again to sharpen up the edges.
5. I use medium CA for everything in my boats, and they've taken a pounding. Epoxy does not stick well to ABS, so avoid if you can.
6. I would go for a port-mounted rudder. Again, I don't have this hull, but my Aussie Shovel turns great with a port rudder, and a cheap, standard servo. Some guys use the smaller Hitec servos, but I can't remember the model numbers.
7. Velcro should work just fine. I use the sticky-backed stuff, and it is good. Use plenty of it if you have any doubts.
Cheers,
Scott.
DJ Campbell
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2003
- Messages
- 41
Hi Andris. As the designer and mfg I guess I'd better help if I can.riggerman said:
There is really no release agent on these hulls, but for good stick, rough up the inside of the deck with 100 grit. You can use thickened epoxy or "Goop" brand glue. I've used both with sucess.
What I do first is glue in the stucture, again, rough sand the places where the glue will go. Then with the transom doubler in place you can take the radius out of the transom easily and there will be plenty of area on the top of the doubler itself to glue the deck to.
The webbing can be removed or not. I rough up the inside and again put a little thickened epoxy on the inside. Then block sand.
A good glue abs to abs is "Goop", or shoe glue. But thick epoxy works fine if you rough sand the areas first. And you can sand epoxy much easier.
CA also works good too, not a problem. I recommend on that has a flex agent in it.
Ride pads I use thin styrene sheet. .040 is fine. You don't need to overhang.
Mounting the rudder on the left or right is fine. This hull seems to likes it on the right. Velcro glued to the bottom is fine for batteries.
For other advice maybe Dan Proulx can chime in too. He has the most experience and has had good sucess.
By the way feel free to e-mail me again. I inadvertantly deleted your last one
Good Luck!
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