Break down on desireability of the different Zens?

[Rickracer]

G230, G231, G230PUM, G260PUM? Any others? Any to stay away from? Thanks Guys, B)

 

[Scott Schneider]

G230, G231, G230PUM, G260PUM? Any others? Any to stay away from? Thanks Guys,  B)

83030[/snapback]

​

G230 & G230PUM are the same engine basicly ... the family of G230's is as follows:

G230PU = Aircraft applications

G230PUH = helicopter application

G230PUM = Water cooled marine application

The G230 family is now obsolete for the most part. they are the old style 2 port engines. Built as a compact case and finless compact flywheel.

The G231's and G260's are the new 4 port engines and what is the current engine to go fast with. Built as a compact case and finless compact flywheel.

BTW they do them as well in PU - PUH - PUM versions like the G230's were.

All the above compact case versions were R.C. specific in application.

Zenoah also made G23's, G2D - E versions, Kalt cased and few other old 2port engines threw the years. these were all weedeater / scooter type engines with big air fin flywheels with full cylinder shrouds for cooling.

The currect air cooled 4 port scooter engine is the RC230 which has basicly a G231 cylinder held on with 2 bolts instead of 4 like the PU versions do.

:lol: Now you be educated !!

:blink: Scott

 

[nitrotoys]

Very well said Scott.

Now there is Sikk top ends that will fit the 23pum cases with little modding of the case. Thats a 27cc kit.

Also Sikk makes a ready built 27cc and 29cc kit.

These seem to have alot of torque.

Now as far as Zens go, I dont think you will go wrong with any of them.

Both the 231 and 260s can be moded to put out some ponies.

I prefer the 260, but heard the 231 out of the box revs more than the 260s.

My 260s have been in the drink many of times, and always fire right back up.

I have blown off cylinders/cracked them on the 23pum. 2 port.

 

[Rickracer]

Some of the guys on Jim's RCBD have got me looking at the ST230RC from Oneill Bros. Racing. It's a 4 port like a 231, and it's $134, but it's air cooled. I could always convert to WC later on. Any thoughts on that?

 

[PHM Racing]

Rickracer the motor you want is a G260 Zenoah for you best price i would say check out the need for speed website from Carmen Blois i run one of his modified motors and it's a great motor and his price is right

 

[Rickracer]

Thanks PHM, do they have a website? I'd gladly take a look, knowledge is power.

 

[PHM Racing]

The website is www.needforspeedhobbies.com tell him i sent you B)

 

[Mike G]

Hey rick, I'm over here too!

Cheapest decent motor is the Sikk, if you want to go mod then M&D is the best. They have more records than anybody else and have been on the winners podium. They are also reliable and easy starting.

Since you know your way around engines I thought if you bought a cheap one at first you could try your hand at some port work. Once you get hooked you can move up. The only down side to the RC's is the larger flywheel, but in a Cat you have to angle the engine anyway so the flywheel doesn't make a lot of difference.

 

[PHM Racing]

Mike G is right on the M&D motors and as far as the rc motor goe's it can be a very fast motor to i've seen some guy's convert the air cooled head to a water cooled head , bot this motor would work just fine in a cat

 

[Rickracer]

TOO LATE!!!! I've already tried my hand at some port work. My Homie went under the knife last Sunday and Monday night. I didn't cut the cylinder base (no mill handy), but I did replace the paper base gasket with some GelSeal II anerobic sealer. I didn't get too radical yet, but it really sounds snappy. It idles just as good, but has more of a pop to it, and revs quick. I'll see how it runs this time, next time I make a degree wheel and get serious. Right now I'm looking for 5 ~ 8 mph between motor mods, hull mods, and a bigger prop.

 

[Mike G]

Hey Rick, biggest problem on the Homies is the ports are all too small. After you make them bigger clean up the transfers and match the case. Then stuff the case more on the front (or rear if your a plane guy). Once you get it to 13k look out as the parts like to seperate.

 

[Rickracer]

clean up the transfers and match the case

That part kinda goes without saying, .

I found that this Homie has a 4 port cylinder, with what looks like a 2 port case, so I did considerable matching. I opened and smoothed the bottom of the transfer ports, and then opened the transfer slots in the case to match. Is there any gain to opening up the transfers all the way to the roof of the port? I opened the bottoms maybe .060 each, and made a smooth transition to the stock ports up top. There doesn't appear to be much to stuff in this crankcase, the rear cover is only about .030 to .040 (by eye) from the crank throw. I guess I could have epoxied the inside surface and then sanded it down for maybe .010 or so. Maybe next time, if it's worth it. Any suggestions as to the finished size the intake and exhaust ports could possibly be? There are definitely tiny as delivered, and I opened them up what I felt was a pretty good bit, but didn't want to kill all the bottom end this motor has. B)

 

[nitrotoys]

I Have seen homies hit a wave and over rev just off the wave and blow apart.

I tell you, a 260 can take a hell of alot of abuse.

You cant go wrong with ANY ZEN and i would start off with a water cooled.

Now if you are going to buy a mod motor, from a motor builder.

remember you get what you pay for.

I have 3 M&D 260s I LOVE THEM, Run real strong.

I have a Midwest 23 puddy motor, Runs pretty good.

Dave Marles Motors are to be strong as hell too.

I have seen Toxic Als Motors run, and they are inpressive.

C C Motors are good runners.

Midwests Hybrids 260s, He uses a full circle crank in these and they run good.

Mostly out of the 4 i have said are really good.

One thing about M&D they stand behind there motors, One motor i got with a little grind through hole in the transfer, well after talking to him about it running crappy, I did what he said to do, and tried things. STILL Ran LEAN. Swaped motors in the boat, took the one apart that night and found a small hole in the back transfer by flywheel. Matthew said send it back. Now this is the cat motor i waited 11 weeks for. few days matthew calls me and said its there mistake and they will take care of it. ( im thinking JB weld on cyl ) I get it back 1 week later and i got new piston, & cyl (no jb ) and broken in and ready to go.

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO YES The BEST Is worth the wait and WORTH The price.

I Know some builders stand behind there motors, BUT I called him on a sunday at home asking him about this and that and what the motor was doing.

Matthew is a great guy to deal with.

I was getting slack from guys that a M&D motor wouldnt run right.

Now that it does run right, All they see is the back of in Insane Cat.

I can only comment on the Exp i have had with M&D, and thats what made me go to them and buy more.

I have commented on several diff motor builders in this hobby that have great products.

anyone of them you will not go wrong.

 

[Rickracer]

Thanks for that info Tom. It's nice to get a perspective from folks that have been there. I might buy a "builder" motor eventually, but for now, I want to try my own hand at seeing how much power I can extract on my own, (and learning to use it, ) I just don't want to be trying to turn a sow's ear into a silk purse. The little Homie project is just getting my feet wet (literally). B)