Boat table finish

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Ron Jefferson

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2004
Messages
2,326
Guys: What's the strongest and best finish for a wood table over stain? I know nothing about Varathane, Urathane. Need some finishing pros that can tell me how to finish and how many coats etc.

Thanks, Ron
 
I have to agree with that..( Alum )..I've built two starting tables and after a few years wood tends to show the wear and tear on them..So I covered them in indoor outdoor carpet....
 
Ron,

I like to use Minwax Polyurethane Clear Satin. Just brush on one coat then

rub out with #0000 steel wool and reapply one more coat and you are all set.

I use this on all my antiques and it works well. Another finish that my dad

likes is tung oil from Formsby. You just rub a few coats on and you are done.

What I like about the Polyurethane is it will stand up to just about anything,

tough stuff indeed. Nice looking table by the way. :)

Ron,

The table I saw in the picture looked like something you would put in your

kitchen, not for boats. I thought this was an indoor table. I still think the

Polyurethane will work, you just may need a few more coats with rub out

in between for a nice smooth tabletop.

Enjoy,

Mark Sholund
 
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I made the mistake to buy plastic tables,, one small Tv tray type and the 8'....

I just picked up two cans of spray plastic dip,, the rubber dip for plier handles to get a grip on the 8' pit table top....
 
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Spray on bedliner compounds work great. The roll on versions work even better but are a bit costly. Fuel proof and easy to clean.
 
Joe

I feel like I'm butting in but,, auto urethanes would be tuff too !!! and could be sanded and reapplyed where needed......
 
waterbug said:
Joe
I feel like I'm butting in but,, auto urethanes would be tuff too !!! and could be sanded and reapplyed where needed......

90652[/snapback]

Auto urethane is not as tuff as the two part epoxy bedliner. Water proof, fuel proof, scratch proof, slip proof and everything else proof.

Maybe I should start sealing my boats with this. B)

KP
 
tung oil from formsby,, through a little piece of tight nap outdoor carpet on table when doing dirty or nitro work. geno
 
Mark: Thanks for the advice on the Polyurethane. I called a local furniture dealer and they recommended the same as it is oil based and very durable. I think I'll pass on the "bed liner" as the table is 3/4" oak ply with 1x3" oak trim. The trim is stained red mahogany and the top a provincial stain as seen in the picture. I cut a groove in the trim so it has about a 3/16 edge all the way around to keep things from falling off and mitered corners. No need to warn me about the table being heavy because it is. According to my wife, the kitchen table is next on my list. I think she gave me a harder time about the table than my last boat purchase.

Thanks again, Ron
 
find a dealer for sikkens around your area and get any color of the cetol 1 that you want. spray one cote on and rub it off with a rag. then get some of the sikkens tgl and spray a few coats on the table. give it a few days to harden up and if you want you can hit it with some steel wool. then your done and it will hold up to anything.
 
K-ZAM said:
waterbug said:
Joe
I feel like I'm butting in but,, auto urethanes would be tuff too !!! and could be sanded and reapplyed where needed......

90652[/snapback]

Auto urethane is not as tuff as the two part epoxy bedliner. Water proof, fuel proof, scratch proof, slip proof and everything else proof.

Maybe I should start sealing my boats with this. B)

KP

90663[/snapback]

The textured sponson may be the next big thing!
 
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