Blazzin .12

[gooycheese]

Does anyone have a easy way to remove stripped allen head bolts from the head? The allen key heads are stripped on 3 of the 4 head bolts.

Thanks Paul

 

[TomMoorehouse]

if they are really bad.... only 1 way. drill them.... :blink:

 

[gooycheese]

Yeah, that sucks. they are pretty bad. I tried taken them out tonight and they just wouldn't move and the wrench just stripped them, I actually stripped 3 wrenches trying. So you are saying just drill the heads off, remove the head and then just turn them out with a wrench?

Thanks

Paul

 

[gooycheese]

Just wanted to say that was a piece of cake, drilled them out took the head of and used some vise grips and turned them out easy. Thanks That worked great, just wanted to make sure thats the way everyone was doing this, just in case there was an easier way (this was simple). Will get replacements tomorrow

Thanks Again

Paul

 

[mark voorhies]

Just wanted to say that was a piece of cake, drilled them out took the head of and used some vise grips and turned them out easy. Thanks That worked great, just wanted to make sure thats the way everyone was doing this, just in case there was an easier way (this was simple). Will get replacements tomorrow

Thanks Again

Paul

Paul, find the reason this happened, it's a pain when it does. I use T handles ground flat on a regular basis?

 

[gooycheese]

I am not really sure why it happened, but they are really small allen bolts (2.5x12mm .45 metric course pitch cap head screws). I think maybe over tightened, but I didnt want them to loosen. I will have to get some T handles soon.

Paul

 

[rcpilotbill]

We see this pretty often on the cars... A good set of allen wrenches with hardened tips is the way to go... I almost never strip them anymore since going to a quality set of wrenches.

The other wrenches ground regularly like mention above is also good, but there are times that when you find the stubborn bolt the ground and unhardened wrench will strip the screw prior to loosening it.

Bill

 

[ek kustomz]

Hey Paul,

race cars ar well and one of the sets of tools that seems to work on almost everything in my boat are my integy allen drivers. I have an older set but the ne set the have out has added one more size that will fit the bolts in you rudder and strut assy. The are hardened and plated shafts with billet handle very nice and reasonable too.

Zach

 

[gooycheese]

Thanks, I will be looking for a good set of wrenches (only thing is half my stuff is metric, other is standard). On top of all my other issues my on/off switch stopped working now, gotta go get a new one of them now. Its a never ending circle...........................if not one thing another.



Paul

 

[gooycheese]

Well at this point I am about to pull my hair out, I am so confused with why this boat wont run its driving me crazy. I am going to go back to the last place the boat ran ok, it was lsn 2 3/4 hsn 2 1/4. since that time boat hasnt run really at all. Tonight I couldnt get the boat to even go at all. I would toss boat in and it would die instantly, every setting I tried it died.

Paul

 

[ek kustomz]

Hmmmm. I could see why that may frustrate you. I think you have the right idea there go back to where you started and try again... Not a bad idea at all. Just start over and try one thing at a time. To many adjustments at once and you will never know what is actually working.

Good Luck,

Zach

 

[gooycheese]

I am not really sure what I will do, I changed engine out and put a traxxas .15 in the boat this is a water cooled engine. I still cant get the boat to run right, not sure what the problem is. Tomorrow is a race, and I am gonna go but I don't think I should enter the race because the boat really hasn't run more than about 75' I think its getting close to running but I don't want it dieing at the launch. I will see what tomorrow brings and decide what I will do then. I do think I will buy the D hydro kit and engine tomorrow so I will be running a more conventional class, hope this is easier to run? Thanks Again everyone for all your Help !!!

Paul

 

[ek kustomz]

I am not really sure what I will do, I changed engine out and put a traxxas .15 in the boat this is a water cooled engine. I still cant get the boat to run right, not sure what the problem is. Tomorrow is a race, and I am gonna go but I don't think I should enter the race because the boat really hasn't run more than about 75' I think its getting close to running but I don't want it dieing at the launch. I will see what tomorrow brings and decide what I will do then. I do think I will buy the D hydro kit and engine tomorrow so I will be running a more conventional class, hope this is easier to run? Thanks Again everyone for all your Help !!!

Paul

Well, I hate to hear you may put the 12 to the sidelines. You should be able to find someone at the races to be able to help. As far as the d hydro being easier... I think my ff12 is the easiest boat I have run.

zach

 

[gooycheese]

My boat .12 will still be run, I just want to have another boat to race. I dont know anyone that knows car engines, everyone knows boats. So I will have my .12 and a .45 hawk.

Paul

Hope I can find a D hydro race

 

[ek kustomz]

I have race nitro on and off-road for quite some time now, but it seems to be a whole different bal game when you take those engines and out them in a boat!?!?!?

Zach

 

[Grimracer]

Paul,

If you need send me the boat. Im quite sure I can get it to run.. Will not cost you a dime eather.

Let me know as I would be happy to help.. My 12 mono is bad fast and Im sure we can get your rigger to go too.

Grim

 

[ek kustomz]

Paul,
If you need send me the boat. Im quite sure I can get it to run.. Will not cost you a dime eather.

Let me know as I would be happy to help.. My 12 mono is bad fast and Im sure we can get your rigger to go too.

Grim

Madd ups for a great offer from a great guy.

Thats what makes this hobby great!!!

Zach

 

[gooycheese]

Thanks Mike thats a really a great offer, I would like to be there so i can see and learn though Just an update as of today the boat is starting and running pretty good, need to do some more fine tuning manufacture recommends HSN 2.5 LSN flush I have mine at almost 4 HSN and about a 1/16" past flush out. boat started and ran everytime like this. I will try leaning the HSN a little at a time , plug is really nice looking looks really rich almost no color change ( but I don't see a lot of smoke while the boat is running, I do have smoke on shore and fuel blowing out the pipe on shore but I don't notice it on the water).I did try the b215,x440,x442 and the 1440. The best runner was the 215 and then the 440 but I was surprised the 442 wasn't that bad maybe if I was leaner it could turn it better not sure. I am using a cheapo traxxas trx.15 right now it is a water cooled engine with 40% should I use higher nitro? I also can remove a head shim I am pretty sure its at about .009 right now. I also noticed the boat seams to be riding a little wet in the rear what can I do to fix this?

Thanks again Everyone,

Paul

 

[ek kustomz]

Thanks Mike thats a really a great offer, I would like to be there so i can see and learn though Just an update as of today the boat is starting and running pretty good, need to do some more fine tuning manufacture recommends HSN 2.5 LSN flush I have mine at almost 4 HSN and about a 1/16" past flush out. boat started and ran everytime like this. I will try leaning the HSN a little at a time , plug is really nice looking looks really rich almost no color change ( but I don't see a lot of smoke while the boat is running, I do have smoke on shore and fuel blowing out the pipe on shore but I don't notice it on the water).I did try the b215,x440,x442 and the 1440. The best runner was the 215 and then the 440 but I was surprised the 442 wasn't that bad maybe if I was leaner it could turn it better not sure. I am using a cheapo traxxas trx.15 right now it is a water cooled engine with 40% should I use higher nitro? I also can remove a head shim I am pretty sure its at about .009 right now. I also noticed the boat seams to be riding a little wet in the rear what can I do to fix this?

Thanks again Everyone,

Paul

Well on the leaning it out, that will cost you some torque so it may not turn that prop like you think it will. I am running 60% in mine now i just got it to quit smoking plugs today. I am at 3.25 out on the hs and .5 in from flush on the ls and running .006 on head clearance. As fas as the running wet in the rear, maybe lower the strut some?? change the angle of attack on the rear sponsons. My strut is 1/16 below the rear sponsons and flat. I am still waiting on my props from Mark but with the x440 on it, it runs clean pretty dry in the rear. It also pulls it like no tomorrow. I would stick with the .009 and maybe go to 50% nitro. That may give you the little bit you need to pull it up. BTW my rears are set as build sheet says for the ff12.

good luck Paul,

Zach

 

[gooycheese]

Ive got the rear end pretty close to the way Tom told me over the phone to do it, bottom of strut is about 1/2" of the bottom of the boat and the sponsons are set 3/16" above that or 5/16" of the bottom of the boat. The boat does seam to lean a little bit near the end of a tank and it does gain speed, I think I will try and get that speed from the start and hope the leaning near the end of the tank isn't to severe. I do need to scuff my ride surfaces a little also , I haven't done that yet. I also am playing with pipe length a little, shorter doesn't seam better (I could be at the right length already). Will do some testing tomorrow night and let ya know how it goes.

Thanks again Everyone

Paul