Blazer Sport 40 Setup Tips

[Brandon Atwell]

Hey guys!
Been struggling with getting my dads blazer running really well. Bad problem with plowing, anyone care to share their strut depth/ angle, CG and turn fin angle? The turn fin is currently set level (running a mojo fin) so I’m thinking something is up with the strut depth and angle. How can I double check the turn fin angle just to ensure it is setup properly though?
Prop choices include a x447 three blade, octura x450 as well as an ABC 2015.
Running an under hull strut setup if that makes a difference.

Running an RS EVO with an OPS pipe.

Thanks ahead of time,
Brandon

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Where is the balance point, balancing at?

 

[Brandon Atwell]

With motor in the hull it is past the midpoint of the turn fin, closer to the leading edge. Ideally I’d like it farther back I’m thinking but the weight to compensate the difference is drastic, tried to and it sagged the back end so bad it wouldn’t launch

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

I had problems with one plowing also. The transom busted before I could make any changes. But I believe the strut depth was too deep.
What’s your strut depth?

 

[Brandon Atwell]

I had problems with one plowing also. The transom busted before I could make any changes. But I believe the strut depth was too deep.
What’s your strut depth?

Should have checked that measurement, back out of town for work I’ll have to check Monday.
I’m somewhat wondering the inverse if it’s so shallow it’s pushing the transom too high, from what I remember it’s very close to the bottom.

Surprised how little information there is online about setting up these particular hulls...

 

[James Schmidt]

Brandon, I have the 20 version of that boat. Mine plowed really bad too. Some of my club members help me with the Strut setting. And it was a big help being this was my first Hydro.

I found the strut settings differ from what the set up instructions say, but that could be due to what motor is used hardware etc..

The best way to get your Strut setting is to place boat with back of the sponsons, and bottom of strut on a flat surface and adjust strut so that the bottom flat section of the boat is level, and test from that point, if boat still plows make the transom a little lower I went a 16th of an inch at a time which is a lot but I would immediately see what the adjustment did.

Another thing that really helped my boat was too wet sand the ride surfaces on your boat making the back of the Sponsons really sharp same with transom. Make sure to sand perpendicular. The instructions on my 20 boat said that the strut should be 1 inch from the bottom of the transom but after I got it set up and running well it’s at approximately 11/16.

I’ve seen some threads on here where guys that have that boat say they had to build up the sponson ride surfaces a little higher.

It took me 4 race seasons before I finally got mine running good. So be tenacious don’t give up keep working on it because you’ll be happy I love mine these are good boats

Good luck
Jim

 

[John Beardslee]

Brandon, I have the 20 version of that boat. Mine plowed really bad too. Some of my club members help me with the Strut setting. And it was a big help being this was my first Hydro.

I found the strut settings differ from what the set up instructions say, but that could be due to what motor is used hardware etc..

The best way to get your Strut setting is to place boat with back of the sponsons, and bottom of strut on a flat surface and adjust strut so that the bottom flat section of the boat is level, and test from that point, if boat still plows make the transom a little lower I went a 16th of an inch at a time which is a lot but I would immediately see what the adjustment did.

Another thing that really helped my boat was too wet sand the ride surfaces on your boat making the back of the Sponsons really sharp same with transom. Make sure to sand perpendicular. The instructions on my 20 boat said that the strut should be 1 inch from the bottom of the transom but after I got it set up and running well it’s at approximately 11/16.

I’ve seen some threads on here where guys that have that boat say they had to build up the sponson ride surfaces a little higher.

It took me 4 race seasons before I finally got mine running good. So be tenacious don’t give up keep working on it because you’ll be happy I love mine these are good boats

Good luck
Jim

Jim, did you mean to sand parallel to the sponson?

 

[James Schmidt]

No. I did mine side to side John. That’s what Charles and Rich did when they sanded there’s. So is that not right?

How did you sand yours John? Let me know if I should sand parallel instead.

By the way I took 2nd with sport 20 at our race last week. Good seeing you again.

Jim

 

[John Beardslee]

I wouldn’t say it’s right or wrong, I just thought I’d clarify. Brandon has an extensive tunnel hull background and I know many skuff the sponsons on their tunnels parallel. I don’t which way they do theirs, maybe like some, they try both to see what works best.
John

 

[Brandon Atwell]

Thanks James!
The sponsons pads/ transoms are sharp and true. As John said, we have an extensive tunnel background so sponson sharpness and truing is quintessential to good performance.
I believe I will pull her down and re-examine setup. Based on other hull setups I might have an idea of where to restart. I’ve heard of the sponsons needing to be built up before, as far as I know the Blazers haven’t had to make as drastic a modification to their personal hulls so really trying to avoid that. Boat ran very well before and lost the way on it so not too sure where it went wrong?
I will keep you all posted with results!

Sanding wise on the tunnels, parallel is typical. However, we’ve learned to avoid creating hooks a perpendicular pattern assists in keeping it more even. No right or wrong way.

 

[SayMikey]

Does that boat have recovery pads? Pic of bottom? How far off the table is the bottom of transom?

 

[J.J. Horvath]

I can measure strut when I get home, here is a pic of where I initially set mine. Mine might have a little more power being FE, but runs loose and didn’t make changes to sponsons. Try ABC 1814 or 1914 prop.

 

[Brandon Atwell]

Does that boat have recovery pads? Pic of bottom? How far off the table is the bottom of transom?

I’ll get you some pics when I get back in town Mike! Pretty certain it’s a Gen I if that makes a difference?
Measuring transom distance as in sponsons flat or in relation to strut height?

Thanks for that too JJ! Yours runs really well it looks like

 

[J.J. Horvath]

My strut bottom is 17mm from bottom of hull.

 

[Brandon Atwell]

Here’s the bottom of the boat Mike!

Boat when checked was 15/16” from transom to bottom of strut.
Double checked turn fin, looked fine.
Strut was significantly deeper than I anticipated, definitely think therein lied the problem.

I bumped it up to your measurement JJ. Being that it’s nitro, I’m guessing it will be too high since I’m not fighting the battery weight, but we will see. If I can watch it make some laps for once I will be able to gauge next steps at least.

Thanks for the help everyone I will keep you posted.

 

[SayMikey]

Get your setup board out and hang the fin off the side or remove it. Raise or lower the strut till the recovery barely touches. Strut FLAT on board,this will get you very close. Start with a Prather 235 if you use a 14 series prop it might push the nose down. X450 with some pitch works well.

 

[Lay26]

believe it or not there is a gen 2 Blazer sport 40 with the front of the sponson modified to get that plowing gone.

 

[Lay26]

Here it is

 

[Brandon Atwell]

Hey Lay!
So it looks like they moved the open area forward? Are sponson angles and such the same?

 

[Lay26]

From what I remember it's the inner part close to the tunnel that different. The sponsons are built differently, i think the angles are the same though. I would have to double check.. I built this boat so long ago and then nitro died off I didnt get to work it as hard as I would have liked...probably would get it back running just for fun.