ATLAS VAN LINES BUILD

[Dasboatman]

Hey Mark,

Here is an option for you.

Try to get the coolest, freshest air you can to the carb, and exhaust as much hot air from inside the cowl as you can.

Exhaust though the area of the dummy exhaust openings is a nice large area, maybe even exaggerate the openings in the rear of the cowl to get good flow though it.

More pics, less verbiage, Mark L. CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[mark couty]

Thanks guys. Bob your ESP is working O.T. I was thinking of leaving an air way in the back of the drivers cockpit for fresh air to reach the engine and enlarging the holes in the back of the cowl.

Keep the suggestions coming. Thanks All.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

I can do that, Bob. I'll take and post them for you tomorrow

 

[Dasboatman]

Hey Mark C.,

No ESP here - just trying to share a few things I've learned over the years to keep you from getting bitten in the Arse as I have .

I like the ply flange you have around the base of your cowl. I do a very similar thing. After the boat is painted, roughen up that flange with some wet and dry sand paper, then clean it off really well. Put tightly stretched Saran wrap on the finished deck to protect it. I like the Aquarium silicone from Home Depot - DAP I think. Run a bead around the flange of your cowl base and latch it to your hull. Let the silicone cure over night, then trim around the perimeter with a shape #11 Xacto blade over a cutting board to support the larger than flange silicone.

This will give you a darn good water seal for your cowl, and prevent the cowl from destroying the paint on the deck. And it will stay in place for a long while. CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Okay, here's the pictures I promised. The first shows the raised lip along the side of the engine bay, the second shows the sponge under the carb and the third shows one of the drain holes in the bottom of the boat. Since that area is FG, no liner was installed but it is sealed with paint around the edges

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Is this the same boat that you have driven through the tree's and up on the beach a couple of times?

 

[Glenn Gates]

Lighten up Rick, We all learn as we go along.

 

[Keith Halverson]

Keep the updates, idea's and pics flowing. Helping me a ton on my newbie AVL "mistake" boat. Taking notes on the water drains and water deflector ideas, as that one had me stumped.

Up the beach and thru the trees,,yikes!,, both awesome and horrific at the same time. Hope I don't have to learn that hardcore lesson.

Nice old hot rod. Took my 210 56 chevy out for a stroll yesterday.

 

[Glenn Gates]

I'm old enough to remember the 210's. Bare bones models as I recall- one sun visor on the driver side only

.

 

[mark couty]

Thats a great IDEA Bob. I wouldnt have thought of that one. I do have a built up lip like the one shown by HJ.

The rod has all the amenities. P.S. A/C Tilt Wheel PDB IFS 350/35O Chevy combo Ford 9". Leather interior.

 

[Keith Halverson]

yup, standard heater and "draft" A/C with the basic 56 210's,,lol. 2 visors. The factory salesmen car had 1 visor.

Was thinking some soft closed cell single side,,for a easy seal on the cowl to deck Super it down and coat it with "the right stuff". hmm.

Could cut some strips of inner tube,,with my slitter.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Who ever said I drove my boat up on the beach? That's never happened. I've hit some bouys and ran through tree branches, never put it on the beach. Rick, rather than trying to make me look bad, check out the bank in the right hand turn in these two videos and tell me if it's possible to run through tree branches without leaving the water:



Mark, I take it that the pictures helped you out a bit? I know the shots weren't great, had to use the webcam on my laptop to take the shots and post them

 

[Greg Wannamaker]

Guys, if you feel like duking it out, take it elsewhere, your ruining another guys build thread!

 

[Dan Kramer]

if you have drain holes I the bottom, an easy seal to keep water out and still drain is take some radio box tape about 2" long, now fold sticky to sticky about 1/2 inch leaving about and inch still sticky, now tape it to the bottom in front of the hole with the sticky ending just at the hole , the folded part will be a flap that drops down and lets the water out , but when running will keep water form entering.

 

[mark couty]

Thanks for the tip Dan. Got a little more done this weekend. May not have time next weekend though. Made the rear deck cover. The back slips in on 2 dowels as to not have any exposed screws holding down the back of the deck and the front screws are consealed once the hatch is dropped on. There are 2 vertically placed magnets to hold the rear of the hatch down. 1 is mounted to the rear deck piece and 1 is mounted inside the hatch so they slide against each other rather than having to pull them apart like I did in the front.

 

[Keith Halverson]

Looks great Mark.

That rear wing strut mount looks incredibly close to the one I made. Mine is standing a bit taller off the deck than that. Moved the rudder to the left side so the steer linkage got real close to the wing strut mount and it had to be taller to clear those mechanicals.

 

[mark couty]

Well here is my first attempt at a scale cockpit. I am pretty happy with the way it turned out. Not perfect, but I will get better on the next one. And if you're wondering about the light blue life jacket, I actually have a DVD showing Chip Hanauer wearing this same outfit.

 

[Keith Halverson]

You should be happy with that Mark. It turned out very nice. Congrats!

 

[Dasboatman]

Looks Great Mark. CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[mark couty]

Anyone know where I can find the preformed NACA ducts ?