any 1/8 MissBuds out there

[mopartybob]

Actually Bob, it was me that was talking about a dedicated channel to operate the canard. There are several ways to set it up after you cut the canard loose and install pivots through the sponson insides. If you plan on using push rods, you would probably need to either cut a hatch(or two) in the deck or pull one deck off to run hidden linkage, if keeping the linkage hidden is the plan. Option two would be to run a pushrod out the bottom of the cockpit and run it to an arm on the bottom of the canard. This would be easier if the radio box is in the cockpit instead of behind the engine. I'm planning on doing the hidden route when I get the plans to build my "Shark"

I was thinking the linkage comming out of the nose tip and run it under the front spoiler center.

Thanks HJ &MH, I've considered the options and figgered that a simple pushrod coming out the nose would have enough throw on it to make whole canard pivot effectively,while this is just a "fun sport" boat,I'll keep it simple for now,while it's frustrating waiting for the weather to co-operate,it's almost summertime here, and got to take advantage of any time allowable to run,so this particular mod will have to wait for the down season,after i'm done milking what i can out of her with this set-up,I've got a 5hp modded motor that i'll try in there for the rest of the season,while I take the stick occasionally, the main driver is my 12 yro son,He's getting his confidence level up and seems at ease now in fully controlling the boat and is now asking for more speed (DAD)????, but it's one step at a time.....I've got a coupla more props to try right now,and will post results as soon as the weather allows.... B) so far ive tried a P275,p280, but they really did not unload the engine effectively, in the vid. i used a 2716/3 which really came on when the rpm's came up,but seemed to poop-out when the engine topped out(but has given me the best runs yet),I'll be trying a 6717/3 and a 8015/3 next time out

 

[misshydro]

Heres a trick for you bob. If you go threw the nose tip. take that linkage and paint it with epoxy paint or use gun blueing on it to keep it form rusting on you. Then spray it with WD40 and apply some window urothane on the inside nose tip then put the rubber boot on top of the urothane glue. This will create a dubble water seal plus no gokie boot on the out side of the nose. The WD40 will keep the window urothane form sticking on that linkage.

 

[mopartybob]

Heres a trick for you bob. If you go threw the nose tip. take that linkage and paint it with epoxy paint or use gun blueing on it to keep it form rusting on you. Then spray it with WD40 and apply some window urothane on the inside nose tip then put the rubber boot on top of the urothane glue. This will create a dubble water seal plus no gokie boot on the out side of the nose. The WD40 will keep the window urothane form sticking on that linkage.

GREAT TIP Miss H....thanks, I woulda just had it hanging out like big 'ol booger...lol.... :lol:

 

[BB Mods's]

I still say my gyro idea was the best...

 

[tampa1330]

I still say my gyro idea was the best...

Yeah I almost bought a scale hydro that came with a gyro. I have heard a few talk about it but never seen it in action. The PB Miss Dud is a bad design. The CG is too far back and the sponsons and air scoop are way out of proportion. All of which cause that boat to ride light in the front and wet in the rear. I owned one. I drove it once. I ebayed it the next day.

 

[misshydro]

heck it could be worse?!! It could be that chinese 1/8 hydro junk that is the uglest hydros. The scoops on them are why off badly!! and slower then heck too.

 

[mopartybob]

I still say my gyro idea was the best...

you let the cat outta the bag there Tom....lol...I've been eyeing this digital gyro set-up on the bay,.....but.......WE all know once we get our boats dialed in,it STILL is'nt good enuff...MORE SPEED......the gyro option is still there but Zacky(Bouy Killer) needs a few more finer points in his driving expertise,before i take that leap...lol... Tampa,yes this thing was a unstable turd at first,but it's coming along now......

 

[Foolwitools]

Hi Guys,

I've had my Big Bud for a while now, just don't get a chance to go to the pond much.

I did make some changes that seemed to make sense. I haven't had a chance to try them out yet though.................

first, I found the radio box kinda crowded, and at the same time it was suggested that LOTS of weight be added to the front. so...................

I made a 6v battery with nimh aa cells and installed it in front of the fuel tank. I made a simple plywood platform and glassed it into he nose. sort of a horizontal bulkhead. I figure this has got to help balance and lessen the amount of weight added to the nose.

then, even with over 16oz on the nose (before the battery re-fit) at 3/4 throttle mine had a terrible sponson walking problem. More like sponson tap dancing. absolutely uncontrolable.....

an experianced scale guy told me to change the prop angle to get the tail out of the water but the strut is not adjustable. so I looked into how to do it.

I removed the prop shaft and the flex and inserted a peice of 1/4 rod into the strut (about 12") and sighted down the hull bottom. Turns out that the strut had a large amount of positive (nose up) angle. I took a scrap of 1/8 alum. as big as the strut monting plate and used a belt sander to taper it resulting in a wedge of about 2 degrees.

I haven't tested this yet, but I figure it's gotta do something.

anybody tried a belt starter? what kind of muffler are you using? what prop?

Bob the Fool :blink:

 

[Hydro Junkie]

You are on the right track with the battery in the front, but you still need to get more weight off the prop. I'd put some weight on the outboard edge of the sponsons just forward of the canard and see how that goes. I know it will help with the dance problem

 

[Foolwitools]

there was some discussion in a thread posted a while ago about where to place balancing weight. an experianced boater suggested putting it all on the left sponson on the inside by the canard. I had 16oz there and it didn't really change anything.

I also tried an air deflector to give downforce onthe forward canard. it was about 2" wide and was the full length of the canard angled at about 30 degrees.

weight + air deflector did nothing to cure tap dancing. it handled as bad as it did right out of the box. couldn't get much past 1/2 throttle.

another big improvement -

the stock rudder pushrod seals (one on the transom and one on the backside of the radio box) were so stiff, they alone-with the rudder disconnected- made the servos strain to go full travel. I changed them for some I had (don't know what brand) and it made a huge improvement. the stock seals look like the good ones, but they are bad copies. the material is very thick and stiff.

If you haven't had a problem with your stock throttle cable, you prob'ly will. the outer tube at the radio box was only held by a rubber grommet... and the motor end was not too well connected either. I couldnt figure out why I couldn't get the motor to idle down. I adjusted it several times before I discovered the tube was able to move quite a bit. a couple drops of thick CA solved the problem.

Bob the Fool :blink:

 

[mopartybob]

there was some discussion in a thread posted a while ago about where to place balancing weight. an experianced boater suggested putting it all on the left sponson on the inside by the canard. I had 16oz there and it didn't really change anything.
I also tried an air deflector to give downforce onthe forward canard. it was about 2" wide and was the full length of the canard angled at about 30 degrees.

weight + air deflector did nothing to cure tap dancing. it handled as bad as it did right out of the box. couldn't get much past 1/2 throttle.

another big improvement -

the stock rudder pushrod seals (one on the transom and one on the backside of the radio box) were so stiff, they alone-with the rudder disconnected- made the servos strain to go full travel. I changed them for some I had (don't know what brand) and it made a huge improvement. the stock seals look like the good ones, but they are bad copies. the material is very thick and stiff.

If you haven't had a problem with your stock throttle cable, you prob'ly will. the outer tube at the radio box was only held by a rubber grommet... and the motor end was not too well connected either. I couldnt figure out why I couldn't get the motor to idle down. I adjusted it several times before I discovered the tube was able to move quite a bit. a couple drops of thick CA solved the problem.

Bob the Fool :blink:

Hey Bob,lol, the one trick that worked for me was lowering the trailing edge of rear wing to about 10* degrees neg. It was a simple mod to do,I just elongated the rear wing mount holes downward about 1/4",use washers that are a little oversize on both sides of the hole(s), this mod allowed me to be able to run WOT and made a BIG difference,not even a hint or tendancy of "blowin off"....Of course,this mod is just for the sport boater,if youz was a wanting to race this hull,in order to even start to be competitive,then limit your racing to other proboats....lol..... :lol:

 

[Foolwitools]

Hi Guys,

Moparty Bob - have you done anything to the strut angle on your Big Bud? I thought about replacing mine with an adjustable but I didn't want to startcutting and drilling without giving the wedge thing I made a try.

So......... If I understand correctly, the best chance I have of a sucessful day at the pond is to take a bunch of sticky weights and be ready to adjust the angle of the rear wing. I don't get to go to the pond often and I wanna be fairly sure I'm prepaired.

you said you were using a 2716/3 prop....... is that still your choice? and is yours a 23 or 26cc and is it stock?

Bob the Fool :blink:

 

[mopartybob]

Hi Guys,
Moparty Bob - have you done anything to the strut angle on your Big Bud? I thought about replacing mine with an adjustable but I didn't want to startcutting and drilling without giving the wedge thing I made a try.

So......... If I understand correctly, the best chance I have of a sucessful day at the pond is to take a bunch of sticky weights and be ready to adjust the angle of the rear wing. I don't get to go to the pond often and I wanna be fairly sure I'm prepaired.

you said you were using a 2716/3 prop....... is that still your choice? and is yours a 23 or 26cc and is it stock?

Bob the Fool :blink:

hey bob,my strut IS wedged about 3*,my 260 is stock,2716/3 is still my choice,rear wing is set at 10* neg. I still have about 8oz. of lead on the front canard which is coming off slowly,... I dont get to the pond too often myself and run times are limited 9am-1pm. so i know what you mean by making it count...lol...good luck BTW the biggest diff. was made with the rear wing mod....

 

[misshydro]

I know mine aint on 1/8 ,But I'd made new turn fins for my 1/12 scale. I'd made mine like the big boys have and even set the turn fin to the sponson side angle like they do.I would thing it would work if it does for the real hydros. I'm thinking on putting lead weights on the front spoiler too. My new super mod hull I'm working on I'd used a solied brass rod for my working front spoiler and maybe make a cover to the underside of that spoiler to come off to add weights.

 

[mopartybob]

I know mine aint on 1/8 ,But I'd made new turn fins for my 1/12 scale. I'd made mine like the big boys have and even set the turn fin to the sponson side angle like they do.I would thing it would work if it does for the real hydros. I'm thinking on putting lead weights on the front spoiler too. My new super mod hull I'm working on I'd used a solied brass rod for my working front spoiler and maybe make a cover to the underside of that spoiler to come off to add weights.

Hi MissHydro,been awhile.... ,With your adj.front canard,I don't think you would need any weights...???? post some pics of your turn fins,seems it's kinda hard to find something aftermarket that'll bolt right up to the proboat sponson w/o doin a hack job on it....

 

[Foolwitools]

OOPS!

 

[Foolwitools]

"post some pics of your turn fins,seems it's kinda hard to find something aftermarket that'll bolt right up to the proboat sponson w/o doin a hack job on it...."

I never had enough speed to worry about turning ability, but................................

I always thought the stock turn fin was a bit thin. seeing that the stock fin mounting bracket has that goofy compound angle I was going to just cut off the existing fin a little above the bottom of the sponson and use that for a bracket. And then use a scrap of alum. sheet to make a new blade. if you want the "J" bend in it, just heat the alum with a propane torch ( pretty hot but don't melt it!) and let it cool slowly. then a small rubber mallet and a broom handle will help you curl the end.

I'm officially in the market for a 2716/3 prop. don't care new or used as long as it's balanced and finished.

 

[misshydro]

"post some pics of your turn fins,seems it's kinda hard to find something aftermarket that'll bolt right up to the proboat sponson w/o doin a hack job on it...."
I never had enough speed to worry about turning ability, but................................

I always thought the stock turn fin was a bit thin. seeing that the stock fin mounting bracket has that goofy compound angle I was going to just cut off the existing fin a little above the bottom of the sponson and use that for a bracket. And then use a scrap of alum. sheet to make a new blade. if you want the "J" bend in it, just heat the alum with a propane torch ( pretty hot but don't melt it!) and let it cool slowly. then a small rubber mallet and a broom handle will help you curl the end.

I'm officially in the market for a 2716/3 prop. don't care new or used as long as it's balanced and finished.

Ok I mad two of them.I see theres two different turn fin the big boys uses on there hydros.

 

[Foolwitools]

Oh Crappppppp!!!!!!

If you are using the little plywood stand that comes with the ProBoat Miss Bud or other 1/8 ProBoats, THROW IT AWAY!!!!

While trying to start mine on the bench last night the stand broke and punched a hole in the bottom of the hull

#^$@!%^*_)(**&^&I((&^%%!!!!!

went to Menards this am and spent $10 on some 3/4 pvc an a handful of fittings.30 minutes later I had a sturdy, well padded stand.

Anyone know the paint code for matching paint?

Bob the Fool :blink:

 

[misshydro]

Oh Crappppppp!!!!!!
If you are using the little plywood stand that comes with the ProBoat Miss Bud or other 1/8 ProBoats, THROW IT AWAY!!!!

While trying to start mine on the bench last night the stand broke and punched a hole in the bottom of the hull

#^$@!%^*_)(**&^&I((&^%%!!!!!

went to Menards this am and spent $10 on some 3/4 pvc an a handful of fittings.30 minutes later I had a sturdy, well padded stand.

Anyone know the paint code for matching paint?

Bob the Fool :blink:

I'd moditfied mine. I'd reglue it and added 1"by12" round wood rod thats the boat sits on. Its coverd in white leather so it wont mark up the hull bottom. On the Miss Bud? I had my boat paint digtly match with a paint scanner. It matched to a car color!!!!!! 94 KIA !! Ok this is duponts NASON N98891f........ 94 KIA paint codeE called Blaze Red!!..To order to match wright you mush use a white base color or white primer before you spray the red or it will come out one-two shades darker. Most RTR's are painted white first before they shoot the color on them. I'd found that out on my first Miss Bud.Done my second Miss Bud with the white base and it matched perfected!!