aligning the engine and drive shaft.

[tnrcboatracer]

It should be OK to leave the washers in if you bed the mount. The bedding actually takes the load. Another option is to use a strip of 1/16" thick balsa wood adjacent to the floor bolt. The mount will start high, but the balsa will crush as you tighten the bolts while watching alignment.

You can find fumed silica at any fiber glass supply shop or boat shop that sells resin and supplies. Cab-o-sil is a trade name. The material is actually little snow flakes made of glass. When mixed with resin, it makes it into a dripless gel. It doesn't take much, so add sparingly. Milled glass does not keep the resin from running very much. The fumed silica 'snowflakes' interlock and greatly decrease the tendency of the resin to flow. But it is not absolutely necessary.

 

[Mike Hughes]

Sounds good Terry

That was the best option yet. Start over. I am glad you came to that solution. Sometimes it is easier in the end. I never like to bandaid my boats if I can help it.

Mike

 

[tmunn]

Guys, i did a combination from a couple ideas,I ended up using the dam using thin ply as my shim along the long side and balsa to dam the ends.Then the filling with epoxy method.tighted down the bolts and squezed out the excess epoxy.

I used radio box tape on the bottom of my mounts and that worked better than vasaline for me I used vasaline on the bolts

The vasaline used as a release on the bottom of the mount left cavities in the epoxy and that area had to be re-done.

I have the mount good and level now.

I know how to mount the log now.

How long should the log be and do you guys put a 5/16th brass Ring around the log where it sets in the epoxy to prevent the log from moving in or out?

I really appreciate all the help.

Terry

 

[tnrcboatracer]

I personally do not use a ring on the thru hull tube, just sand and degrease before bonding. I do it this way in case it has to be removed for some reason; simply heat the brass with a micro torch and it will slide right out. I also put a drop or two of thin CA glue on the shaft log (outside of hull) after I get the final adjustment on the strut angle. The CA wicks into the joint and locks it all together. Once again, a little heat on the shaft tube, and it pops out when I need it to.

 

[tmunn]

tnrc

You use the thin CA after the log has been installed at the correct angle and epoxy has cured correct?

Then as you said apply the ca between the flex housing and log on the outside of the hull.

One guy I spoke with used red loc tite where the flexi housing goes through the strut.

Either method would work I guess.

Thanks for the heads up.

Terry

 

[tnrcboatracer]

I guess I should be more detailed. I place a short piece of brass through the hull. This tube is epoxied to the hull, and include the nipple and restrictor hole for the shaft oiler. I then put the shaft log that goes all the way from the engine to the strut through the epoxied in place tube. The shaft log has a mating hole in it for the oiler. After I have tuned my strut angle at teh pond, I use the thin CA to secure the shaft log into the through hull tube. Red loctite would also work.

 

[tmunn]

O-k now i am confused. I though, and from reading above that the shaft log is the short peice of 9/32" brass that passes through the hull. Is the shaft "log" and not the piece that hold the flex shaft. <_<

I thought the log was the 9/32"dia nd the drive shaft housing was the 1/4" brass tube.

Just when i had it figured out.

terry

 

[tnrcboatracer]

I probably have it wrong, sorry to add confusion. In any event, you have the 9/32 short tube through the hull, and the 1/4 tube to the strut. (for 3/16" cable).

 

[tmunn]

yeah that's it :lol:

what do you use for a shaft oiler ?

 

[HendricX]

Cheap : Photo-camera film-container.

Expensive : Nitro-car Fueltank

 

[tnrcboatracer]

I solder mup my own tanks from tin plate. Capacity is about 1/2 oz. Size is about 5/8"x1/2"x1 1/2". It's not too messy if you put the inlet to the shaft tube 1 1/2"~2 1/2" from the engine end of the tube. I use a mix on 50% Marvel Mystery oil, 50% STP, with a dash of Prolong. It has a nice red color...........