after run suggestions/ opinions

[Joe Warren]

I have used many things for overnite storage at races...... But today I use PB Blaster. hook a piece of fuel tubing to it . and blow it in the carb while spinning over with the starter motor. corrosion X only for the radio connections and servos.. if you dump the engine upside down in the lake? get it back to running as soon as possibkle to clear the engine of any water. Dont let it set around with water in it.......

 

[Tom Foley]

You can't beat the glow plug blow off fittings for really flushing some lube through prior to over night storage or removal from the boat for what i call "Hand Oiling " where you continually turn the engine every direction while flushing with clean lube . With all the high dollar stuff out there , hard to beat Fogging oil Air tool oil or Tranny fluid for long term storage in a bag in a box . I use plastic storage boxes for easy storage on the shelf in the garage .

 

[David Murany]

I use WD40 to flush out the cooling circuit but i will say this

if you run nova rossi engines with a red silicone crank ramp

(35+,Flash, keep on and all of the .46 motors)

DO NOT USE WD40 IN YOUR ENGINES

it will expand the silicone ramp and destroy it

Good to know Greg. I thought I had heard this but wasnt sure how true it was,. Thanks.

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Yes, DO NOT use WD40 in any engine with the silicon ramp. The turbin oil works well.

GQ

 

[Adam Piotrowski]

I use WD-40 liberally for the initial Flush to get the Fuel and Moisture out. Never let WD-40 SIT in your engine it will Draw Moisture to it and cause parts to Rust\Corrode. Then I use a 80\20 mixture of ATF and LUCAS Oil's Climbing Gear Lube to make it Stick\Cling Twice to make sure all the Fuel and WD-40 are flushed out. I can go home and open up ANY of my engines and they will look as clean as they were New. IMO using Methanol or Alcohol to Flush the engine is defeating the purpose as Both absorb moisture like a sponge.

 

[Brian Sorgente]

Marvel Mystery Oil also expands silicone ramps.

Brian

 

[Tony Drake]

I kep it simple and use Rislone...2 or 3 flushes and its all good

 

[moparbarn]

I get motors that are treated with every thing imaginable,including corrison x,and it doesn't matter what you use ,if you don't get all the alky,nitro,and water out they will still rust

I think it may have been Gary Preusse used to run the engine in the pits at the end of the day on a mixture of alky and oil.

that is why i run mine at the end of the day on 33% oil & alky. i just can"t imagine that spinning the engine over & spraying it out with what ever will remove the burnt oil, nitro & water that is inside as effectively as running it & building HEAT. fatten it waaay up, fast idle, let it run for a few minutes. remove fuel line, let it run out. piston down, let it sit - you are done. all contaminents are removed, the alky that doesn't burn out will evaporate in a hot engine very quickly, leaving you with 33% oil. believe me, THAT'S A LOT. my engines are dripping in oil, & it's everywhere stuff gets when the engine ran, 'cuz that's how it got there. i use byron's 95% synthetic/5% castor mix up a quart at a time. i use a 6 oz. tank, couple lines, just hook it up to pipe & carb, set it next to the boat. i can do 4 .21 engines on about 4 oz. of after run mix. another huge benefit is no blowing the engine out to start it next time !! the oil seems to light off better than most "normal" after run brews. i was shown this method by chris wittrig & jimmy johnson. only way i pickle engines, even during almost 5 months of down time here. been doing it for almost 4 years, less bearing issues than anything else i've done, clean inside, too B) .

 

[anthony_marquart]

we probably over do this.. but I've had sleeves stuck in case from lack of care.. (long time ago,..)

 

[Tim_Duggan]

I start with a shot of WD40 into the cooling jacket.

Then I fire the engine on a blend of 20% degummed castor oil and methanol. Let it run at a fast idle until the case gets hot to touch, then pull the fuel line and choke the carb by hand to stop the big over rev. I then hook up the starter again and glow driver with no fuel and give it a spin, just to make sure I get the unburnt methanol. Leaving the starter motor engaged with the belt also stops any rpm getaway.

Then I pull the plug out and fill the motor with ATF, turning it over by hand. after a while of turning over by hand I then dump all of that ATF out of the engine (should take any remaining fuel with it!), then carefully crank it over with the starter motor - gentle pressure on the belt to let it slip if the motor needs it - particularly on alloy rod engines - don't want to risk hydraulic damage.

Next it gets another load of ATF.

 

[Samuel Hagan JR]

Yes, DO NOT use WD40 in any engine with the silicon ramp. The turbin oil works well.

GQ

This is probably a dumb question but what is a silicon ramp?

I've always used wd40 then, corrosion x, then ATF.

 

[Kevin Krogness]

Yes, DO NOT use WD40 in any engine with the silicon ramp. The turbin oil works well.

GQ

This is probably a dumb question but what is a silicon ramp?

I've always used wd40 then, corrosion x, then ATF.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H_2663QpJvQ/UH1V-MhoPMI/AAAAAAAAJjs/l6BoZLNcVyw/s320/21XZ-M_crank.jpg

Epoxy ramp in the crank shaft to smooth out delivery. The only dumb question is one not asked

 

[Kevin Krogness]

Sorry forgot to say its the red part!!

 

[Tony Drake]

I start with a shot of WD40 into the cooling jacket.

Then I fire the engine on a blend of 20% degummed castor oil and methanol. .

whats the point of using 20% oil and methanol at the end of the day for cleanup when some nitro fuel has just as much oil or more in it? Does the methanol evaproate a lot better from the motor? also where you guys buying it at?

 

[Tim_Duggan]

Nitromethane is highly corrosive. Burning the 4:1 methanol / castor helps to get rid of most of it.

I'm in Australia, so where I get my fuel contents is probably useless to you. I'm sure there are guys on here who can point you in the right direction.

 

[seaducerpete]

We use wd sprayed in through needle and marvales mystery oil sprayed in through needle until you get red oil on paper towel comeing out of plug hole

 

[anthony scardina]

Guys in my club generally pull the fuel line and thumb choke while running the engine dry. Next comes FAI thru the Carb with a cleanout plug using the starter motor for a few seconds, then air tool oil.

 

[anthony_marquart]

flush 3x4 times with ATF,.. corosionX or just oil,.. but lots of it.. I don't think there is a science to this.. just flush all the methanol and nitro out and lube very well..

 

[TOM DRIVER]

Been using WD40 thru the carb while spinning the motor over with the starter with plug removed until sufficient amount has been flushed thru the motor. Then either ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil liberally poured thru the head - then tip the motor towards the rear bearings, Been doing this for 30+ years and never had a motor failure other than normal wear/usage.

Tom

 

[Mike Cathey]

I like Justice Brothers JB-80 for after run in both the crankcase and the water jacket as it disperses with a foaming action that really gets in the bearings. I also find that having an old glow plug loosely installed helps create crankcase pressure when you are turning the motor over and really does a better job of getting the oil through the motor.

I usually tear my motors down as soon as I get home and clean them up and lube with Risolone on the steel parts. I like knowing what I'm going to the next race with. I would much rather get my stuff right at home on the bench than thrash on race day.