Terry Heddin
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2023
- Messages
- 113
I should have stated in my original post. I meant for GAS engines, not glow.
No one has them in stock, just spoke to Harry at speemaster and he still doesn't know when he will get them.Bummer, from rossi sales/ speedmaster?
Do you make these to sell?
Grim may not have seen this so I’ll add my 2 cents which may or may not be exact. The jist of it applies to Corrosion X or other corrosion specific fluids. They work on a molecular level and penetrate into the metal surface. In the case of the glow plug wire, it’s shielded in the plug housing and would be almost impossible to clean out. Thus it remains in/on the wire and when lit and under compression causes a problem with the catalytic capability of the wire/glow plug.Interesting, the after run oils attack the glow plug wires? First I've heard of this, can you explain a little more?
Thanks,
Brian
You might check with Alan Elzer (sp) Bam Racing on here. I think he made some awhile back.I've been waiting for one.the last 3 months,.no one has the standard one in stock only the turbo.
Make your own from old plugs, brass tubing, Stay-Clean acid flux, Stay-Brite Silver bearing solder and soldering iron.I've been waiting for one.the last 3 months,.no one has the standard one in stock only the turbo.
Grim may not have seen this so I’ll add my 2 cents which may or may not be exact. The jist of it applies to Corrosion X or other corrosion specific fluids. They work on a molecular level and penetrate into the metal surface. In the case of the glow plug wire, it’s shielded in the plug housing and would be almost impossible to clean out. Thus it remains in/on the wire and when lit and under compression causes a problem with the catalytic capability of the wire/glow plug.
that is my understanding as well.. we have the BEST people here!
The lesson for me was in glow airplanes/helis. When the engine dies when you remove the glow driver.. (ya have had that right, hey.. it glows, but wont keep running.. hum...) you have lost the needed amount of platinum to make it run. That loss is compounded when the "pickle" oils we are talking about saturate the wire.
Grim
If you’re one of those that like to spray their after run through the spray bar in the carb the Rislone will work better if thinned. A few of us bugged Rislone (they are local to a few of us in Michigan) and they would not share so I got out all my solvents and tested which would stay in solution for 24 hours. Acetone (surprise) was the only one that worked. I’ve been using an 80-20 mix with 80% being Rislone and am happy with it. It does depend on your carb a spray bar so it may take some experimenting but is worth it. Rislone really clings to bare metal. I use it straight as an assembly lube for new or rebuilt engines. View attachment 324624
Jim Wilson introduced us both to it at Hobart many years ago. If you knew him then you know the amount of research and testing he did before recommending it to anyone.The Murany's turned me onto this stuff. I like it but, you're right, it's thick!
Very wise words....thank you, Al.Marvel Mystery Oil and ATF have similar viscosity. ATF is quite thin as far as lubricants are concerned. It will find its way into the smallest corners of a transmission and will find its way into the tightest spots in your engine. But, because it is so thin, it will also leak out of your engine through the bearings. Rislone is substantially thicker than ATF/Marvel Mystery oil So, it is not likely to leak out of your engine, or find its way into the tightest places. I mix ATF and Rislone 50/50 as my after run oil. I'm not saying that it is the best, but it is what I like. The most imortant part is to throughly flush your engine after running. It's not just the water that will harm your engine parts, nitro causes damage as well. After flushing the engine, I turn the engine over to disperse the oil throughout the engine. After run oil is cheap as compared to engine parts.
Saw that stuff in a **** video the other night!
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