After-run Oil

[Terry Heddin]

Is marine fogging oil a good after-run oil?

 

[Buckshot]

Is marine fogging oil a good after-run oil?

Yes, but do not get any in your water or fuel tubing, it will make them soft and deteriorate. I like to use it only when the engine is out of the boat and being stored.
In between days at a race a run WD-40 through the engine and then flood with Marvel Mystery Oil.

 

[Don Ferrette]

Another option for after run oil after you flush with WD40 as Buck mentioned is air tool oil as moisture is the #1 enemy of air tools.

 

[Todd]

Marvelous Mystery oil is what we recommend to customers in our engines. But you need to flood the engine with it and keep turning it over to get everywhere in the engine and add more than let it sit once done. Than pull engine over to get any residual out when you go to run again. Customers who do this to thier engines look brand new when they follow the storage procedures. People who run and than just put them on the shelf are the ones who damage things because of the water.

 

[Grimracer]

I have done a bunch of testing.. Corrosion X tops my list.

I was like man.. this stuff is working.. so.. I proved it.. placed 4 engine bearings on strings, using a host of different "pickle solutions", i.e. Marvel, Airtool, etc.. hung them outside for 2 weeks.

Corrosion X won the battle.. but.. the real kicker for me was when I sprayed my lathe bed with it.. NEVER AGAIN will be looking to others oils.. I WAS AMAZED! you can spray the bed.. come back in 4 to 6 months and RUN YOUR FINGER through the oil. Its like you sprayed it that very day.

and just a side note:

NOTE.. (i have done this for years) I NEVER run the oil out of a pickled motor on a race plug.. I have a "runout plug" that takes care of that duty.

Grim

 

[doug long]

I have done a bunch of testing.. Corrosion X tops my list.

I was like man.. this stuff is working.. so.. I proved it.. placed 4 engine bearings on strings, using a host of different "pickle solutions", i.e. Marvel, Airtool, etc.. hung them outside for 2 weeks.

Corrosion X won the battle.. but.. the real kicker for me was when I sprayed my lathe bed with it.. NEVER AGAIN will be looking to others oils.. I WAS AMAZED! you can spray the bed.. come back in 4 to 6 months and RUN YOUR FINGER through the oil. Its like you sprayed it that very day.

and just a side note:

NOTE.. (i have done this for years) I NEVER run the oil out of a pickled motor on a race plug.. I have a "runout plug" that takes care of that duty.

Grim

"Runout Plug"?

 

[MitchFarabaugh]

I have done a bunch of testing.. Corrosion X tops my list.

I was like man.. this stuff is working.. so.. I proved it.. placed 4 engine bearings on strings, using a host of different "pickle solutions", i.e. Marvel, Airtool, etc.. hung them outside for 2 weeks.

Corrosion X won the battle.. but.. the real kicker for me was when I sprayed my lathe bed with it.. NEVER AGAIN will be looking to others oils.. I WAS AMAZED! you can spray the bed.. come back in 4 to 6 months and RUN YOUR FINGER through the oil. Its like you sprayed it that very day.

and just a side note:

NOTE.. (i have done this for years) I NEVER run the oil out of a pickled motor on a race plug.. I have a "runout plug" that takes care of that duty.

Grim

Probably not the best for engines, but there is NO Better coating for machine tools than Fluid Film.

 

[Tim Kish]

Short term, overnight at a race, WD40.

Anything longer than that, Flush with WD40, and then Corrosion X for me.
Corrosion X has lenever let me down.

 

[John Beardslee]

If you are running Nova Rossi engines WD40 and Marvel Mystery oil will dissolve the silicone ramp in the crank so other choices are needed. I was using Turbine oil (expensive) then Glenn and Martin suggested Sta-Bil Fogging oil but Jim Wilson also recommended Rislone Engine Treatment so I started using Fogging oil at the pond, I remove the fuel from the fuel lines and spin the engine to clear the engine then add a good amount of fogging oil in the plug hole and carb, then add my catch can to the plug hole and add more fogging oil while spinning the engine with the starter. Then when I’m going to store the engine I pickle it with copious amounts of Rislone and rolling it over by hand and orienting the engine to assure good coating on the bearings.
An added plus is that both products are readily available at all kinds of stores around the country.

 

[RonVanWagnen]

Probably not the best for engines, but there is NO Better coating for machine tools than Fluid Film.

Thick, slimy, tacky. Its a soft undercoating being sold for other uses.

 

[Steve White]

Regardless of what you use. Flush it out good first, then oil if down.

 

[Dave Gilles]

"Runout Plug"?

https://www.technologyhobbiesinc.com/product-p/blowplug.htm

 

[John Beardslee]

"Runout Plug"?

I think what Grim is referring to is an old glow plug to run the engine with when you first start it after using your after run procedure. Some of the after run fluids will attack glow plug wires and reduce the plug life significantly.

 

[gilbert galli]

I don't know if it is available in the USA, I use Motul special 2-stroke micromotor oil, it is miscible methanol fuel and does not degrade the silicone ramp crankshafts of the engines being equipped with
https://www.motul.com/ma/fr/products/micro-2t

 

[Brian Sorgente]

I think he’s talking about a “blow plug” basically a barb fitting with glow plug threads so you can flush the motor without making a mess. I’m sure he’ll let us know.

But I agree with him. I never run the engine with after run oil in it. I wash the engine out with nitro fuel first by pulling the glow plug, choking the engine and holding a rag over the plug hole before firing it off. Its a lot easier on the engine and it starts right up after clearing it out. Nitro is a great degreaser, might as well use it to your advantage.

Corrosion X is the way to go. It’s pretty much a one can solution for everything boating related. Penetrating oil, after run oil, and it treats electronics if they get wet.

Brian

 

[doug long]

I think he’s talking about a “blow plug” basically a barb fitting with glow plug threads so you can flush the motor without making a mess. I’m sure he’ll let us know.

But I agree with him. I never run the engine with after run oil in it. I wash the engine out with nitro fuel first by pulling the glow plug, choking the engine and holding a rag over the plug hole before firing it off. Its a lot easier on the engine and it starts right up after clearing it out. Nitro is a great degreaser, might as well use it to your advantage.

Corrosion X is the way to go. It’s pretty much a one can solution for everything boating related. Penetrating oil, after run oil, and it treats electronics if they get wet.

Brian

I've been waiting for one.the last 3 months,.no one has the standard one in stock only the turbo.

 

[Grimracer]

I think what Grim is referring to is an old glow plug to run the engine with when you first start it after using your after run procedure. Some of the after run fluids will attack glow plug wires and reduce the plug life significantly.

Right you are..

 

[TJ Hammons]

A side note, flushing WD-40 in the water jacket will help keep the hardware from rusting. It will cause the o ring on some engines to swell, but that's a small price to pay in the long run. We do this to our zenoah engines as well.

 

[Brian Sorgente]

I've been waiting for one.the last 3 months,.ni one has the standard one in stock only the turbo.

Bummer, from rossi sales/ speedmaster?

 

[Brian Sorgente]

Right you are..

Interesting, the after run oils attack the glow plug wires? First I've heard of this, can you explain a little more?

Thanks,
Brian