Advice needed about Hitting pipe

[chriscrash]

I am needing some advice as to what I can do to help find the right settings again on my sport 40. I ran the boat all last year, and always was able to get on the pipe. I stripped the boat over the winter, repainted it, and then reassembled. The boat was reassembled the exact same way as last year. The header-coupler-pipe connection is the exact same as last year and the measurement has not changed. The third channel needle is at a different setting from last year due to having to disassemble and reassemble to put back in the boat. However I started with it at 2 1/2 turns out as I did last year. Here is what I am running:

Phil Thomas SS45

Mac 45 with shim out

Andy Brown Pipe at 9 1/4" (worked perfect last year)

450 two blade

3rd channel remote from Speedmaster (not Bob Violet)

MC-9

The needle valve has been from 3 turns out to 2 turns out, but still not hitting the pipe. The last run of the day today was its best. It ran for about 3 minutes before dieing (it died because I leaned it out too much). But the run was at about 30 mph with no top end. Every once in a while it seems to want to perk up and go for a split second. I have checked fuel flow, and everything appears to be fine here. I have also changed the plug after every couple of runs, so it is not a plug.

Any advice would be great.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[ALLAN YUEN]

I am needing some advice as to what I can do to help find the right settings again on my sport 40. I ran the boat all last year, and always was able to get on the pipe. I stripped the boat over the winter, repainted it, and then reassembled. The boat was reassembled the exact same way as last year. The header-coupler-pipe connection is the exact same as last year and the measurement has not changed. The third channel needle is at a different setting from last year due to having to disassemble and reassemble to put back in the boat. However I started with it at 2 1/2 turns out as I did last year. Here is what I am running:

Phil Thomas SS45

Mac 45 with shim out

Andy Brown Pipe at 9 1/4" (worked perfect last year)

450 two blade

3rd channel remote from Speedmaster (not Bob Violet)

MC-9

The needle valve has been from 3 turns out to 2 turns out, but still not hitting the pipe. The last run of the day today was its best. It ran for about 3 minutes before dieing (it died because I leaned it out too much). But the run was at about 30 mph with no top end. Every once in a while it seems to want to perk up and go for a split second. I have checked fuel flow, and everything appears to be fine here. I have also changed the plug after every couple of runs, so it is not a plug.

Any advice would be great.

Thanks,

Chris

Better to contact to Andy Brown will help your solve problem about MAC45 <_<

 

[P THOMAS]

Hey Chris, I have had that same thing happen once "All I did was give it a new paint job, dont run the same now". You will get it back in trim, maybe you did something to the needle valve seals when you had it apart? Bypass your needle valve and try a spare non remote needle valve, start real rich and lean it 1/4 at a time each run.

Till you get it sorted out pull the pipe out to about 10" plug to weld.

Did you mark the strut so you could install it in the same spot?

Did your paint job build up the sponson edges so they are less square?

Maybe the engine bearings have corroded or rusted over the winter, do they feel smooth?

PHIL

 

[[email protected]]

It almost sounds like your pipe is sliding back and forth. Is the pipe secured and unmovable or does it have play where it could slide back and forth from vibration?

It almost sounds like your pipe is sliding back and forth. Is the pipe secured and unmovable or does it have play where it could slide back and forth from vibration?

Also, did you mark the exact angle of the strut and the depth? That can really change the boats attitude a lot. Don't forget to check the turn fin when you rebolted it on, make sure you have the same set up as before you took it apart.

I had a Sport 40 I, years ago, it ran great. The designer of the boat told me to cut the turn fin down a little. When I did that it never ran right again. What a nightmare it was to remake a new turn fin to finally get the boat to run right again.

 

[SayMikey]

It almost sounds like your pipe is sliding back and forth. Is the pipe secured and unmovable or does it have play where it could slide back and forth from vibration?

It almost sounds like your pipe is sliding back and forth. Is the pipe secured and unmovable or does it have play where it could slide back and forth from vibration?

Also, did you mark the exact angle of the strut and the depth? That can really change the boats attitude a lot. Don't forget to check the turn fin when you rebolted it on, make sure you have the same set up as before you took it apart.

I had a Sport 40 I, years ago, it ran great. The designer of the boat told me to cut the turn fin down a little. When I did that it never ran right again. What a nightmare it was to remake a new turn fin to finally get the boat to run right again.

This may sound stupid but make sure you have clean sharp sponson bottoms,a drip of paint will not let the boat get on top of the water like it should,and make sure you ahve sealed the strut good water pour into the strut area and will bog the boat down in a few laps. Last but not least pull to the outside lane to let the BUD through......Mike

 

[NAMBA860]

sounds like a fuel problem to me.

 

[Eric Canto]

Mikey has likely hit the nail on the head. Use a flat sander with some 400-600 grit paper to carefully true up all of your planing surfaces.

Eric Canto

 

[Brian Schymik]

Yep.. it is the paint. Sticky and grabs the water. Gotta take a block and sharpen the edges and then some wet /dry 600 grit and take all of the shine off of any surface that gets wet.

Then it will run just fine.

|Brian

 

[Josh Stollfuss]

On this same suject, I just painted my Sport 40. How far back does it need to be sanded? I did sand the edges sharp on the front sponson. But does the entire bottom all the way back to the transom need to be sanded also. The bottom did get clear coated. I just want to make sure it runs decent 1st time out.

Josh-

 

[Don Ferrette]

I doubt it's just the paint. While I'm in total agreement with sanded smooth surfaces & sharp edges there is something else going on here. For starters are you sure about the pipe length being 9 1/4" last year & not perhaps 9 3/4"?? 9 1/4" seems just a bit short to me for a sport 40 especially since the recommended length off the CMD web site is 9 1/2". I ran my sport 40 with a MAC 45, X646/3 cupped to about max that prop would take, the same pipe @ 9 5/8" and the boat plain hauled a$$. The way you say it's running sounds like the pipe is too short. Also re-check all your settings & adjustments, check for trash in the needle or bad needle O rings since you say you took it apart. How much run time (gallons) on the bearings in the MAC? :blink:

 

[chriscrash]

Well thanks to everyone for the advice. I have looked at all the things that you have mentioned. The bottom of the hull is definitely going to need a little bit of love, but I don't think this is the limiting factor. The hull was taken back to fiberglass, so it is not an excess of paint, but I am going to do some sharpening . I have not installed anything in the gap between the strut and the hull yet, but I also had nothing there last year either. Next time at the lake I will try a different needle to see if this helps. The strut was marked at the same location and reinstalled at this height and angle. Currently the strut is a little higher, thinking this would help get the RPM up and the pipe on. It did run the longest with this setting, but still no pipe. The motor was pulled apart this winter and it is extremely smooth. I have about 2 gallons through the motor. If I lean the boat out on the ground and rev it up, I am able to hit the pipe no problem. I only do this for a split second though. Finally the pipe is not at 9 1/4, it was at 9 7/8. I don't know what I was measuring before. This is the same setting that I have in my log from last year.

Saymikey, hoepfully moving over won't be a trend this year.

Thank you for all of your input. I will spend more time at the lake Saturday. Hopefully I will get all of this resolved.

Chris

 

[Don Ferrette]

Chris, how rich is the motor on the shore? It should be nice & fat so when you hit the throttle it sputters before it revs up on shore. This is also with the carb about 1/3 to 1/2 open at idle. I'm really suspect of your needle, take needle out & flush it all out real good. B)

 

[SayMikey]

Chris, how rich is the motor on the shore? It should be nice & fat so when you hit the throttle it sputters before it revs up on shore. This is also with the carb about 1/3 to 1/2 open at idle. I'm really suspect of your needle, take needle out & flush it all out real good. B)

Chris im telling you at least 2 guys in the club have sold boats because of the strut thing,the boat goes a lap or 2 then loads with water.In some cases ive seen it squirt to the front of the boat and do as your saying.A little rtv will go a long way. I told you it sounds crazy took us dam near a year to find it. I sold a boat over it myself.

 

[chriscrash]

Don and Mikey,

Thanks again for the input. I will at RTV to the strut area. Also, the motor is not that rich. I will richen greatly and see what happens.

Thanks,

Chris

 

[chriscrash]

One thing that I would also like to put to rest is the issue of water temperature. Someone has recently suggested that the temperature of the water could be causing my problems. I have never ran in water this cold, and maybe the water temperature is not allowing sufficient heat for the motor to get into its ideal range. I do not believe this to be the case, due to the boat coming off the lake last night at 250 degrees. What are your thoughts?

 

[ALLAN YUEN]

Chris h34r: Check what size of fuel tube Small or med or large did you run on tanks ( hopper?) to 3rd mixture onto MAC45? :unsure:

 

[chriscrash]

all car fuel tubing. This is new tubing. The old tubing was large ID. Maybe I should switch back. Didn't even think about that. Thanks Allen

 

[Don Ferrette]

One thing that I would also like to put to rest is the issue of water temperature. Someone has recently suggested that the temperature of the water could be causing my problems. I have never ran in water this cold, and maybe the water temperature is not allowing sufficient heat for the motor to get into its ideal range. I do not believe this to be the case, due to the boat coming off the lake last night at 250 degrees. What are your thoughts?

While water temps can make hitting that perfect needle difficult I don't think you've gotten close to that point yet. But your final sentence leads me to believe you are too lean.

 

[dwb2620]

Please use only large fuel tubing. I had similar problems a few years ago when I started running Mac 45 engines. It cleared the fuel starvation problem I was having at full throttle. Haven't had a problem since.

David

 

[Chuck Spragg]

I,ve had same problem before , if all else fails check replace front and rear crank bearings . it works for me