'82 Executone, and 83 Speedy Blueprinting (Blue) and 83 Miss Rock KISW Build Thread

[Mike Luszcz]

Thanks, here are some better ones:

 

[Mike Luszcz]

 

[Mike Luszcz]

 

[Heywhire]

That is awesome! Great Job.......

 

[Bob Howard]

Looks great, hope mine comes out half as nice.

Bob

 

[Dan Kramer]

SWEET!

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Just got the decking done on another 8255 hull, just one left to do. Mike

 

[Joe Wiebelhaus]

Very nice workmanship, keep up the good work, when will it hit the water ?

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Thanks Joe,

Well, I still have some things to do, and the fact that my ESC had issues upon its first plug in last night, It may be a few weeks before its repaired by Castle. My speed cote arrived today, so I need to add that to the ride surfaces, and Larry Kraemer just received my order for a driver, seat, steering wheel, dash, dummy cowl locks, and merlin stacks so that will be another few weeks before those parts come. I would like to at least give it a try in a couple weeks. Next up, the 1980 Budweiser humpback!

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

Michael;

Would you care to share what "speed cote" is?

 

[jwo]

Michael;

Would you care to share what "speed cote" is?

Speed cote is the paint used on the runner surfaces. It is the black/gray looking paint on the sponson bottoms. It is very slippery, that's why they call it speed coat.

 

[Dan Kramer]

Michael;

Would you care to share what "speed cote" is?

Speed cote is the paint used on the runner surfaces. It is the black/gray looking paint on the sponson bottoms. It is very slippery, that's why they call it speed coat.

go to a farm supply store or case, john deere, etc,

non-stick graphite plow shear coating.high performance lithium.

cnh#407408r1 case-ih.

extremely flammable. out doors only.mask off, spray 2 coats. let dry . unmask.

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Yep, The stuff I got has been used on RC and full size boats for a long time. Its called Lubri Bond A. Its a dry film spray that has graphite's and what not in it. Its suppose to really work.

Ok, so I am getting close to finishing another 8255. This one is for Buddy Lowe, and will be the KISW. I am awaiting the cowling right now, but I have all the other construction done (He will be finishing the hull himself). Just got done with the cool hatch cover last night. This will be a nitro hull, so It needed to be a totally different hatch design than my FE setup. Enjoy, Mike

Pics:

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Deleted

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Hahaha, he will obviously need to cut out where it comes threw the hatch!

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Well, I got it in the water this weekend! Ran really great. Drives extremely easy, drives straight, and turns very well. I have some tuning to do to keep the bow down a little, and start with bigger props, but it ran in the mid 50's and the batteries, motor and esc came back cool. The Castle Ice 200 was run without water cooling, and it never got over 127 degrees according to the onboard data logger, which is pretty decent seeing as I was in and out of throttle a lot due to the size of my local lake. Here are some pics of it sitting in the water, and some pics of the 3rd 8255 hull I am building for Dick Loeb.

 

[Wayne Johnstone]

Well, I got the corrected framing for the 8255 hulls today, and the framing for the '55 Miss Thriftway (1/10th scale framing, but I have 1/8th scale done as well on CAD). I spent 3.5 hours tonight working on the 8255 and got most all the framing complete, and 5 minutes on the Thriftway at my office just checking framing before I send it to its owner as he is going to do the sheeting templates. The framing all fit about perfect, if there is such a thing with wood! The only change I might make is to the kit I end up selling is to reduce the basswood sheeting batten from 1/4" sticks to 1/8" or 3/16". I may leave it 1/4" and use Balsa as the extra width will make gluing framing easy, and it will have enough thickness to be strong, and still extremely light weight. We will see. It was extremely easy to CA. I also measured from right front sponson tip to left rear transom tip, and vise versa..both diagonal measurements came in at 44.75", so the squareness of the framing is dead on. Anyways, enjoy the pics! Mike

HI All, Sorry for the thread resurrection again, I am in the process of building the 1/8th scale version of the 85 Miss Rock, MHR 8255, I am up to positioning the bottom sponson runners (if that is what they are called) and I am unsure of the exact placement required at the front end. Is the 4th picture down appropriate to use as a guide in relation to the spacing? I have had a look at my Newton plans and this appears to be different hence my confusion. Do I also need to set them back enough to allow the bottom sheet to butt into the sponson shear or should they be flush so the sheet can overlap? I have noticed also that the runners will overhang at the rear vertical section of the sponson, do they just get cut off to finish flush? Thanks for your time.

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Wayne, I add 1/8th of an inch to the back end of those sponson runners to make sure they are long enough to blend in at the bow as some of them are put in at a curve, and this gives you enough extra to allow for that curvature. Just blend them flush at the front of the sponson, and sand off whatever is hanging out the back at the Sponson Heel. Hope this helps! Thanks Mike

 

[Wayne Johnstone]

Thanks Mike it does. What about spacing the runners, is there any formula or rule or guidelines as to distance between the runners at the front end or if i use that picture I mentioned as a guide will that be ok?

 

[lohring]

Very nice Executone build. My electric conversion of the boat is a lot older and rougher looking. It's still fast, though. By the way, David newton is a very nice person. Though you supplied the frame kit for my gas scale $ Bill, I still bought plans and pictures from Dave. I think we all win with your excellent frame kits. I see a resurgence of wood boats in the scale classes.

Lohring Miller