1 way to build a Rx switch

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Buckshot

Well-Known Member
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Joined
Dec 22, 2003
Messages
4,280
I was building some Rx switches today for a couple of new boats for the season and thought I’d share. Most boaters just buy a switch and have no issues which is cool but I like to build everything I can and that includes the switch.
Switches come from DigiKey p/n ckn1023-nd
I get the 20awg servo extensions from Amazon
All my switches are made to fit the boat they go in so there is enough length going to where the Rx and battery are so there’s not a lot unsightly wires going every where.
Any questions ask!
Let’s start:

IMG_1426.jpeg
 
Is the switch water proof, install on a bulkhead inside or in a water proof box? I used to buy the heavy duty switches, but seems like nobody has them, similar to a Futaba switch.
 
I was building some Rx switches today for a couple of new boats for the season and thought I’d share. Most boaters just buy a switch and have no issues which is cool but I like to build everything I can and that includes the switch.
Switches come from DigiKey p/n ckn1023-nd
I get the 20awg servo extensions from Amazon
All my switches are made to fit the boat they go in so there is enough length going to where the Rx and battery are so there’s not a lot unsightly wires going every where.
Any questions ask!
Let’s start:

View attachment 334800

Buck, are the switches the lift & lock type?
 
I was building some Rx switches today for a couple of new boats for the season and thought I’d share. Most boaters just buy a switch and have no issues which is cool but I like to build everything I can and that includes the switch.
Switches come from DigiKey p/n ckn1023-nd
I get the 20awg servo extensions from Amazon
All my switches are made to fit the boat they go in so there is enough length going to where the Rx and battery are so there’s not a lot unsightly wires going every where.
Any questions ask!
Let’s start:

View attachment 334800

Carbon copy of what I have been making and selling for about 10 years. Problem is the ease at which on of those switches can be flipped off well that and those are not waterproof. That is why I always used the locking switches as they can't be bumped off and they have a special washer fused to the switch body that captured a oring for a water tight seal and the switch itself has a double sealed stem to keep water out. If the water isn't sealed out of the switch it isn't going to last very long and can leak through. NKK discontinued the locking switches. Made the whole idea pretty worthless without the waterproof locking switches.

I am working on something now that is going to be way more bulletproof and dependable than the locking switches were. The last batch I got from NKK was a bum batch. Odd since I had never had a single bad one prior to switches becoming obsolete.
 
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I use the rubber boots.
I too have been using these for +10yrs and have yet to see a switch fail due to connection or water. Also have never had one turn itself off while in use.
Like the thread title says, this is just one way to do it. Don’t like this way, do it your own way.
View attachment 334836

What do you do to seal the switch body itself through the box/lid? seal it with silicone ? or does rubber boot against box seal it well enough. I had been tempted to make them with non locking switches but thought it was too risky. May have to reconsider if you say you can use them safely.


KruUfLS.jpg
 
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