1/10 1985 U100 Miss Coors Light Build

[TomGracey]

One of this winter's Builds for the NAMBA DIST. 8 2020 Season

Fabed up the build fixture out of 3/4 MDF I really like the stability of this material the fixture is perfectly Square and flat. Tnx to Scott Meyers of M5 performance for the hint on using this material. Ive started fitting The ML Boatworks hull parts

Here is a really good Video on building a boat building Fixture



I have to add 1 more piece of MDF to add to bottom of the fixture after I confirm that the tunnel width an break in the bottom are correct Don't want to tear it all apart if these are not correct


More to follow as the build progress

 

[TomGracey]

So what to do U on a cold rainy day Saturday in WWA. when Ur waiting for epoxy to cure on hull build. The one thing I HATE MORE then hull body, fender, paint work. Get out the files sand paper Dremel Tool and balancing stand and thin sharpen & balance a couple of ABC props YUCK

 

[TomGracey]

With all the fitting and tweaking of the sponson side plates and rib's done.
Finally started the glue up of the starboard side sponson side-plate as soon as the epoxy set's up. I'll start on the Port side then on to the engine rails.

Learned a long time ago not to do too much at one time in case something shift''s epoxy is not very forgiving to disassemble if something go wrong. This is one time when patients is necessary and trust me I have NONE

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

I ended up adding material to the framework edges to increase the gluing surfaces. I don't like gluing sheeting to 1/16" framework. Personally, I found this a very challenging build. But, my '85 BOAT runs fine.

JD

 

[TomGracey]

I ended up adding material to the framework edges to increase the gluing surfaces. I don't like gluing sheeting to 1/16" framework. Personally, I found this a very challenging build. But, my '85 BOAT runs fine.

JD

TNX Dunny I have always done the same thing with balsa 3/16 & 1/4 Sq. stick's to increase the glue surface and it really does not add that much weight but the seams and areas under stress loads don't fall apart

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

I know you are still a long ways from sheeting the bottom of the sponsons, but I found out the sponson Angle of Attack was dang near zero with my strut depth at 1 1/4" to bottom of the strut. I increased the AOA by adding a 1/8" deep piece of plywood to the back of the sponson and using 1/16" plywood to create a wedge.

 

[TomGracey]

TNX for the info on the sponsons had not looked that far a head yet just a quick cursory look and the R Newton drawing

I just finished 4 props to play with 2 Octura' X447R's thinned sharpened & balanced 1 of which I'm going to Detounge Cup and increase the pitch on as I do some testing

And 2 ABC H-1714 2b R's thinned sharpened & balanced 1 stock The sec ind going-to cup and increase the pitch slightly on as I do some testing

 

[TomGracey]

Starting to look like a boat. Most of the major glue up getting close to being completed a few more deck & sponson
stringers to make but this is enough for today.



Heading out to the machined shop to make a turn fin bracket and turn fin

 

[TomGracey]

Finally able to start epoxying on the bottom skins on added some balsa to increase the glue surface on the sponsons and rear non-trips. I never have trusted gluing to 1/16th plywood on edge.

I'm also going a different route on the skins material going to use .015 G-10 fiberglass instead of 1/16th plywood. The G-10 is half the weight and much stronger then 1/16th plywood and less pron to puncturing and since it is almost clear takes fare less time fitting to the surfaces.

Just rough cut the shape lay it on the mounting surface trace out the final shape, sand the glue line with 120 grit to give it some tooth clean with acetone and glue it.

 

[TomGracey]

Finally able to get back to this build after my hip surgery. Motor mount, strut and flex shaft log installed. On the top installed the upper mid deck section's leaving the main deck off till the sponson skins are finished.



All sponson skins except the right side main ride pad are completed decided to increase the thickens of the main ride pad's from .015 like the rest to skins to .030 G-10 since these surfaces take more impact then the others.



The epoxy on the right side ride pad is curing as I type

 

[brad nichols]

MDF is medium density fibreboard. Great for jigs but makes lots of dust when cutting, hard face but softer core. Looks like thick fibreglass mat before it gets pressed.

Brad

 

[TomGracey]

MDF is medium density fibreboard. Great for jigs but makes lots of dust when cutting, hard face but softer core. Looks like thick fibreglass mat before it gets pressed.

Brad

REALLY

 

[TomGracey]

So after the better part of the month off (holidays) I was able to to get the center section deck and cowls , Scale Driver roughed in. Just have to mock up the cooling water lines and servo mount and rudder steering linkage . Then I can get the main decks installed. And move on to my LEAST favorite part of any build, body and fender and paint YUCK

One other thing since our local clubs only allows 1 hull to be registered from the Master Hull Roster and raced per season. Which I was late in doing. It has been registered as the 1985 U-100 Miss Coors Light

 

[Steven Kinney]

Where do you get your G-10 fiberglass? Is that something you make or is there a place I can buy it. I am almost ready to skin the top of my 1/8 scale 1980 Miss Budweiser and would like to try the fiberglass. Thanks

 

[TomGracey]

https://www.eplastics.com/fiberglass/sheets/g10-fr4-epoxy

Sand the glue line with 120 grit clean with acetone and Epoxy with West Systems G Flex Epoxy

Where do you get your G-10 fiberglass? Is that something you make or is there a place I can buy it. I am almost ready to skin the top of my 1/8 scale 1980 Miss Budweiser and would like to try the fiberglass. Thanks

 

[Steven Kinney]

Awesome thanks for info. Boat looks great!

 

[TomGracey]

All under deck water lines Servo mount and some additional flotation are in and the deck skins are on. A light skim coat of Ever-coat poly glazing putty on the starboard deck. Boy-O boy now for my FaV. body & fender work SAND SAND SAND SAND primer and even more sanding

 

[Jerry Dunlap]

All under deck water lines Servo mount and some additional flotation are in and the deck skins are on. A light skim coat of Ever-coat poly glazing putty on the starboard deck. Boy-O boy now for my FaV. body & fender work SAND SAND SAND SAND primer and even more sanding

After getting my wood BOAT hit during a heat race last year at Lacey and sinking, I really stuffed a lot of sections of a pool noodle into the open compartments. Luckily for me, the BOAT sank in fairly shallow water. The crazy thing about getting hit was I was starting in the far outside lane when a boat in probably lane one spun out and came directly across the race course.

JD
View attachment 277241 View attachment 277242

 

[TomGracey]

Bummer I remember Ur Crash the weight of the Lipo & ESC is probably caused it to sink.
If the hull had no holes it probably would have stayed afloat But when the displacement change down she went, at least U got her back.
I have 2 Carbon fiber 1/8 scale Budweiser T-6s 1 Nitro & 1 FE
The FE hull is a couple lbs heaver then the the the nitro hull.