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Anywhere, as long as you don't drill through the pulse hole for the carb

No, you need revs, loads of revs. Sorry to say but a 4 stroke is more for a tugboat. In order to get any decent speed you need a huge prop, and teh propwalk in a rigger is already huge, let alone if you proip it up to accomodate 10k revs, rather than 18k.

I ran a 7016-3 receently: on the small side, but ran nice. I think 2814-3 chopper might work

Ultrasonic bath will clean it very well.

Di you look at CMB website directly? http://www.cmb-motori-italia.com/English%20Version%20-%20home.html

Congratulations Rich. I have been off forum for some time, but good to see you have a running boat now. And the damage of not cooling could have been much worse, so you have been lucky!

Post us some pictures of the set-up, eg where is the turnfin in relation to the sponson etc. I find it hard to believe a tapered rudder to be the origin of propwalking and spinning. I'm pretty sure it is a matter of set-up where the turnfin is in relation to the CG and how the sponson angles...

I DON"T KNOW BUT ALL I KNOW IS THAT IT LOOKS LIKE YOU ARE SHOUTING: try not to hit capslock

Would just stick what you have no: if you really feel you need more cc than you can always upgrade, sometimes only a piston-cilinder, but complete new engine also an option.

Well it is easy to say it is too much, but I have instances where I had to. Better to lenghten or shorten the rods and ensure all linkage is square so throw each way is the same. For gas engine for example I deliberately have a 25-75 % throw 25 to shut down engine, 75 to throttle, but certainly...

2-4 clicks out of 10. The more you offset a horn to get the output straight the more bias you get if you apply any steering or throttle. Ideally should be 90 degrees on neutral.

Fema does: http://www.fema-modelltechnik.de/Neue_Dateien/Katalog_S3-14_eng.pdf MHZ Germany in th epast also sold these onboardstarters, but they have run out and don't intend to do a re production run. But you might always ask.

Not an answer to your question, but have you used already a good muffled 3 chamber pipe? These reduce noise considerable and might avoid you having to convert to electric. Be aware that a good FE set-up is quite noisy as well, not as noisy to an open pipe, or a pipe with an open muffler, but...

No the Slingshot Hendrik: The twin I have not checked yet, that I suspect is an airleak...

Mine was really off: 2.5 mm. No wonder the engine ran rough and stalled upon launch..

You will love it. When you master the software you can make color decals-stickers. Simplest to start with are of course the mono color decals-stockers. Important to find the right material to plot: should be very thin, but yet uv resistant and very sticky.

My post was not about politics or a war, just about the last day of registration for the World Championsships. I don't understand why you have to make such a political statement about weapons and a war close by...

This might have slipped the attention of some but the last day of registration for the 2022 IMBRA WorldChampionships in Poland is close. Registration might still be possible at: WC 2022 Konopiska » On line registration

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I must be getting old: forgot how much mm before tdc the ignition should spark on a gas engine. The SG and BZM engines have marks on the rotor and primary coils, but I forgot at how many mm the piston should be at that point. I vaguely recall 1.5 mm, but could be 1.2 as well..