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If you look at my pics in post 152 you can see my water exit coming out the deck on the left side. You can easily see if you’re properly cooling the motor this way. I’ve done out the side in the past and it’s hard for me to see it shooting out while the boat is running. It’s really a matter of...

I can vouch for the Slingshot. It is a very good boat. Dan Ellison also puts out some good stuff. He is on this forum. I don’t know about the others but I’m sure they are good bets too based on who is recommending them. I’ve seen people have problems with the Envy trying to get the boat to...

Ideally you want to drill any necessary holes in the hull and/or cowl before you paint. So turn fin bracket, rudder, strut, any holes for waterlines, any grinding for clearance should be done and sealed before you start painting. Then take everything apart and put the decks on and seal, then paint.

Make sure the hull is clamped to your flat building surface when you are putting your decks on. Spread your epoxy, and then clamp it down to this surface. This way, everything is locked in square and flat once the glue dries. Even a hull with a twist can be righted in this step. Conversely, a...

I think if you go further forward into the cowl deck, like you were talking about, you won’t have an issue. You definitely want a source for fresh air to get in and also for heat to escape further back. Those steel pipes generate a lot of heat.

Nice. Troy is doing the Miss Houston.

Oh yeah? What are we working on?

I actually have one of those and have done some stuff for my boats. I’ll need to look into doing more stuff like printed vinyl ( like she’ll be doing for you) and doing two colors on lettering. I’d actually like a 3D printer too but I have no CAD skills so I’d need to learn something like...

That panel doesn’t look bad at all. Cool idea. The stuffing box looks fine. When it dries run some 60-80 grit over it and it’ll shape up nicely.

As long as there’s not a Twist… IN IT! 😂. Looks great. That’s the SS Mono right? I think ZippKits really hit a home run with this hull and it’s affordable and easy to build within reason. Mario Johnston in my club has had some great success with these.

+1 on Wes, he’s a standup guy and does good work! The attached pic has the website address at the bottom and also lists the phone number . The best email to use is [email protected]. The boats are on the website. You can fill out the form there or email him. He will let you know an amount...

There's been a lot of people asking me, at the lake, and otherwise, where I got my zoomies and supercharger/blower on the "Duck". I got them on eBay from two different sellers. Both are 3D printed. Certainly not cheap by any means especially with shipping, but at the same time, the Liberty...

I like your list Mike. I would have them further look at Tyler’s post as well with regard to ideas about some built in telemetry at somewhat lower costs. Even if the receiver is a tad larger, just a tad, some built in gps would be nice. He also mentioned some data recording capability, which I...

Just got one of these. I will put your suggestions to work for sure!

Everything looks fine. On those needles yeah those can be a pain on cowl clearance. I’ve actually cut them in half in the past and re-slotted them with a cutting wheel. As it stands all you can do is run it. If the boat dies because it is getting water in the carb, you might have to close up...

Here’s a couple pics. One is one of my Backlash Sport Hydros and the other is my Slingshot Outrigger. You’ll note the wire and plug standing loud and proud on both😂. The Backlash sees speeds of 75-76mph and the Slingshot has seen 80 mph.

Yeah just a bit. 😂. I don’t believe the location of the wire, whether fore or aft of the boot, creates any more discernible drag than the cowl itself. You’re fine where it is.

Outstanding idea! You shouldn’t have to spend 800.00 on a radio, 100.00 on a receiver, and 165.00 on a sensor to get gps functionality.

Yes, if you are saying that it angles to the back or transom of the boat, that is by design, like Mike said. This allows you to install your shaft log (the larger, shorter tube that your stuffing tube fits through), so that it can align with the collet and be installed permanently. Then the tube...

Great advice!