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I am not sure if this is directed at me or not because I have not mentioned using ASSAN regulators. I run all 5-cell NiMH packs in my boats. In my helis and giant scale planes where I use lithium ion packs I use regulators made by Fromeco and by Smart Fly.

Then I most strenuously recommend that you do NOT use a lipo pack. You can get one of the lithium-ion packs, 2600 mAh or a A123 @ 2,300 mAh and you can charge those in the box. But charging a lipo in the hull, plane, where ever is a tremendously bad idea.

1.4 inches outside your range, but they make a great hull: http://www.deltaforce-hk.com/df45mkii.html And they have another that is 35.4 inches: http://www.deltaforce-hk.com/df.html

Firefox and Safari on a Mac. Firefox, IE and Safari on a Windows Vista machine, no luck all evening. 10:40 PM PDT right now.

I'll try again!!

If you find out anything let me know. I gave up due to the same results. I wanted to get some of the bullet nose drive dogs (0.25-inch) but after sending several emails and never being able to get through on the phone I gave up.

My vote always goes to http://www.rclipos.com Pat's PolyRC brand is made with top quality Enerland cells and I have had nothing but great results using these packs.

As I stated above, the Nicd only recommendation is based on making sure your receiver pack can deliver the proper voltage under load. If you use good NiMH cells that do not drop off under load too much then you are fine. AA cells are typically the worst NiMH cells for this. I use 1500 and 2000...

These may help: http://2.4gigahertz.com/systems/futk2015.html http://2.4gigahertz.com/systems/futk4900.html The 3PK and 4PK have very similar programming features. The 4PK obviously has an additional channel. The 3PK stores 20 models, or 30 with a CAMPAC module installed. The 4PK stores 40...

And I knew that you knew but thought you might be hard at work getting new wonderful things ready for us. I have to give credit where it is due, Krysta and Bill have been great resources for me on all things Futaba and FASST. Frank just teases me about running boats. Too "2D" for him. You...

I know you asked Mike, but I can answer the questions you have. The Nicd only recommendation pertains specifically to the receiver packs for the reasons I noted above. They make a similar recommendation for a number of their servos as well for the same reasons as above. Futaba uses a variety...

I noticed a reference to carbon fiber, which is death to SS signals. We learned very quickly with airplanes that carbon fiber needs to be used in such a manner so that it never comes between the transmitter and receiver antennas. Other objects like engines, fuel tanks, etc. can physically block...

Most people have found that a good balance point for the SV is around 33% ~ 8.91 inches from the transom. But whatever you do, an 8XL is a lot of motor for that hull. You might try adding some weight on the keel to both move the CG and to make it heavier. I've run up to 8 ounces in mine just to...

I saw the TT boat up close at the AMA show in Ontario, CA in January. It actually looked very nice. The hardware was decent and it was finished off very nicely. No idea how it runs, etc. But it looked good sitting on the shelf. TT motors are pretty decent overall. They have a pretty good...

FWIW, I just bought a prop balancer from Kintec and it is a very nice piece of work. Almost makes balancing fun. Almost!!

I use one of the Hangar 9 meters in line with every install I do to make sure I am not overdriving the servo or having some sort of binding issue. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Defau...x?ProdID=HAN172

You should adjust your end points on the servos so that they are just reaching the point you need. If you drive them against the stops as it were then you will significantly increase the current draw, load the battery up and shorten the lifespan of the servo.

Futaba recommends using a 5-cell (6 volt) battery with the FASST systems. The low voltage battery failsafe is set at about 3.8 volts and if you have a 4.8 volt pack that is on the low side and made using cells that cannot deliver under load than it is very possible to hit the low voltage...

Keep in mind that this is not really a longer antenna. It is the same antenna on the end of a longer piece of coaxial cable. This allows you to get the actual antenna section up and out of larger hulls. I have not found it to be an issue with the standard antenna. The "longer" antenna does not...

Futaba recommends running it outside the box in a vertical orientation. However, many people report good results running it inside the box. Keep in mind that the only part that is actually antenna is the bare wire bit at the end, the rest is very small diameter shielded coaxial cable.