Need gas fuel help!!!

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If you use gasoline, I would try to get Ethanol free gas. There's a website to find where to buy it. I'm on Long Island and for a long time couldn't get it here. I had to buy it in Pa.. Now there are 2 stations within 10 miles where I buy it. Use it in all my engines, go-kart, minibike and snow blower.
 
Some great info here! Dave, thanks for the oil chart! And all the great advice saved me one motor at least! Thanks y’all!

in general the lower flash point synthetics are cleaner and are used for lighter duty. High flash points are used for hard running but can cause carbon build up and spooge. so a nice trade off is to use the synthetics and blend it with castor oil. that is what klotz and maxima 927 is.

but whole new top ends are only $44 and take 15 minutes to change. you dont even have to take the engine out of the boat. that is primarily what will go bad if something goes wrong. It really isnt anything to sweat about.
 
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If you read my article you can see that as far as power, the oil doesn't matter. Any pump gas as well as Coleman fuel are about equal. There is significant high end power increase due to ring seating. Since we ran a variety of oils, I don't think the type of oil contributed to break in. Our M&D Zenoah had zero drag seals so the seal contribution to break in didn't matter.

Lohring Miller
 
If you read my article you can see that as far as power, the oil doesn't matter. Any pump gas as well as Coleman fuel are about equal. There is significant high end power increase due to ring seating. Since we ran a variety of oils, I don't think the type of oil contributed to break in. Our M&D Zenoah had zero drag seals so the seal contribution to break in didn't matter.

Lohring Miller
Years ago, the go to break in oil for my giant scale planes was Lawnboy. It did a great job, one gallon and then I switched to Redline. I used strictly aviation gas, it’s consistent, doesn’t smell and with no oil added will remain stabile in a jug for 10 years.
 
IMHO, no special oils are required for brake in. I have heard all of the stories of synthetic not allowing the ring to seat. That has not been my experience. I run my normal oil from day 1. When we travel, I show up at every race with a fresh ring. Thermally cycle the engine 4-5 times at home and go race. The engine will settle in fairly quickly. Going back to the nitro days, many people do a lot of damage by not getting the engine up to proper tempearture. Do not run excessively rich or "baby" it.
Every run, go a lap at a moderate throttle to get the temp up and stabilized through all of the parts before running hard.
If you are running a fuel because it has no smell, remember you may still have harmful and flamable fumes in an enclosed space. You just can't smell them. Read and understand the MSDS.
 
I've been running 87 octane with a splash of Stabil and 10 oz per gallon Motul Grand Prix 2T in all my engines from day 1 for years. Have not had a single engine failure. This oil is specifically designed for high rpm 2 stroke engines and leaves no carbon residue.
 
The best oil for power I have used is Shell Advance M. Both in the boat motors and kart engines. You can not buy it any more. Outlawed in both Europe and the US for quite a while. Apparently not kind to aquatic life. If you can find some it normally goes for lots of coin. 16 to 1 to 10 to 1. What ever it takes to make things hang together.
 
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