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JakeZella

Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2024
Messages
8
Hello!

I am new to model boat building overall, and have been astonished by the wealth of knowledge here. Thank you to all those that post their questions and those who answer as well!

I am currently attempting my first hydro build, the 1994 Pearl Harbor Hydrofest Smokin' Joe's U-10, with a kit from ML Boatworks, and I never would have thought that this process would have been such a journey of learning. I've built a lot of other kinds of rc vehicles, but this will be the first boat! Any advice on completing the kit, as well as general building advice would be greatly appreciated! I will start a build thread as I get pictures together.

Thank you all, and I am happy to be here!

Jake Zella
 
Welcome to the Forum. Glad to read you've been pleasantly surprised by the level of knowledge.
Have you obtained the plan set from David Newton yet? If not, he is a member of the forum. This link will also get you to the correct page of his website so that you can order it:
https://www.newtonmarine.com/index.php/product/u-10-smokin-joes-1994/
Here is a link to the Master Hull Roster which has the dimensions of the boat, if you plan on racing it when done:
https://www.rcunlimiteds.com/_files/ugd/1fdd7a_1197146d5f6f4d179390c04c69ab9a6b.pdf
Last, but not least, if you haven't gotten them yet, you will need the appropriate fiberglass parts before you get too far into the build. Here's a link to a well known manufacturer of fiberglass parts:
https://www.rcboatcompany.com/1-8-scale-hulls

Good luck and have fun with your build 😎
 
Jake
With the ML kits, you dont really get instructions. But it is like a puzzle and it all kind of makes sense. The hard part is the cowling center section area. This is not completely clear as to how to build it. You need to be able to see how it all is going to come together. Some people have a hard time here. Using Newton plans and pictures will help you. Like HJ stated you kind of need to figure out your cowl situation before you can build this area.

What is your power plant and size going to be? Those are some of the items you need to figure out as well since sometimes it is much easier to install these before the rails get installed in the boat.

The best part of this, is you have a vast library of knowledge to gleam from here on IW. Dont get discouraged. Just ask questions and we will get you pointed in the right direction.
Mike

WELCOME TO THE ADDICTION
 
Welcome to the Forum. Glad to read you've been pleasantly surprised by the level of knowledge.
Have you obtained the plan set from David Newton yet? If not, he is a member of the forum. This link will also get you to the correct page of his website so that you can order it:
https://www.newtonmarine.com/index.php/product/u-10-smokin-joes-1994/
Here is a link to the Master Hull Roster which has the dimensions of the boat, if you plan on racing it when done:
https://www.rcunlimiteds.com/_files/ugd/1fdd7a_1197146d5f6f4d179390c04c69ab9a6b.pdf
Last, but not least, if you haven't gotten them yet, you will need the appropriate fiberglass parts before you get too far into the build. Here's a link to a well known manufacturer of fiberglass parts:
https://www.rcboatcompany.com/1-8-scale-hulls

Good luck and have fun with your build 😎
Thank you for the great links! I have an order placed with David Newton though the website, hopefully that'll help with the rear winglets as well! I have also got the glass parts on order from RC Boat Company.

Is there a guide for how to do the measuring to comply with the MRH?

Jake
With the ML kits, you dont really get instructions. But it is like a puzzle and it all kind of makes sense. The hard part is the cowling center section area. This is not completely clear as to how to build it. You need to be able to see how it all is going to come together. Some people have a hard time here. Using Newton plans and pictures will help you. Like HJ stated you kind of need to figure out your cowl situation before you can build this area.

What is your power plant and size going to be? Those are some of the items you need to figure out as well since sometimes it is much easier to install these before the rails get installed in the boat.

The best part of this, is you have a vast library of knowledge to gleam from here on IW. Dont get discouraged. Just ask questions and we will get you pointed in the right direction.
Mike

WELCOME TO THE ADDICTION
I am planning on FE, I was planning on the NEU 1527 1.5Y and the Castle Hydra XLX2 esc to be able to run 10s. I don't have any Unlimited classes nearby at the moment, but would like to make sure I am at least capable of entering if it becomes possible!

Seeing the parts laid out from ML, I can see what you mean by needing the glass parts for determining the cowl area.

Thank you both very much, and I'm excited to get building!
 
Tyler Gerrad can answer all your electric questions. I think you might want to go with 8S if you plan on going to NAMBA races. I think IMPBA is still 10S. I dont run 1/8 electric so not really sure on that. Just remembering the **** storm that came about when NAMBA change to 8S. Some else might jump in on that.

THe nice thing about the rules of scale is that you just have to be close. Some times you just eyeaball it and call it good. If it look like the pic, then you are good. The measurement in the rooster get you close. There are no detail measurements. So alot of artistic license is applied to it. WIth in 1" + or - on overall length. Then 10% on the rest of the measurements.
Mike
 
The MHR actually gives you the size limits you need to be within. Since your boat is hull 8700, you scroll down to that hull. The actual dimensions of the full sized boat are given at the top of the section, such as the length (the column to the far left), which shows the boat being 29 and a half feet long. Directly below that is the scale size range, 43.25 to 45.25 inches of overall length. For an accurate scale size, you would want to be right in the middle, 44.25 inches in this case. Your boat had some changes made however. The boat was shortened by 10 inches and widened by 1 inch in 1989 due to a sponson change. This also affected how deeply the front of the boat is recessed from the sponson tips to the front of the center section. This is listed a bit lower in the chart with the date of change.
 
Thank you both again!

That helps with better understanding the MHR! Reading through the NAMBA rules, it does look like the current rules are 8s maximum, I will take another look at electronics and make sure that I can comply with that requirement.
 

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