Recent content by Mario Johnston

Wildly inaccurate. I've been taking the zippkits ss mono and zippkits pipe combination to the Oval Trials for the last 4 years and proving how well this pipe works on these stock hulls. Its a good set up. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise

Don't start that in this thread

Several photos I've taken

This concludes my build thread/instructional walk-through of the TNT Racing Banshee kit! I hope you guys enjoyed looking through my process, this was an incredibly fun boat to build! I tried to keep everything as clear and easy to understand as possible, but if we're honest, if you're building a...

Down to final assembly

This hull was sealed with West System Epoxy, 105 resin and 207 slow hardener. The tub sides and sponsons were cleared using SprayMax 2k Clear

I made a support block from cherry to be placed around my stuffing tube. This adds more structural support to the tube

The bait box is a fully sealed compartment on this hull. I used a piece of brass tubing, flared and epoxied into the transom for a rubber boot to be fitted.

Much of the work beyond this point is fit and finish, therefore you have creative freedom to build your own details into the boat the way you see fit. Here are some more images and notes about how i finished this hull Steering Servo mounting: I made my mount from cherry blocks and epoxied the...

46. Machine your Right strut mount bracket and your rudder mount to fit the transom. Use these images as a reference Mario's note: cut your rudder length to between 2.25" -2.5" below your rear sponson ride surface

43. Mount your engine on its rails within the tub and begin cowl fitting. Use G10 or Carbon Fiber plate to make a lip under the front of the cowling. On this boat we used Carbon Fiber. 44. Decide on your cowl mount system. For this hull i chose StumpFab's swivel style cowl locks 45. Add...

Gluing the rear sponsons: 41. Drill holes in your transom and mount the strut assembly. Insert boom tubes in your tub and mount front sponsons. Rest the hull on your flat work surface. Use an angle finder positioned on the hull's floor at the forward engine mount hole to establish a zero degree...

39. Drill and tap your 4 aluminum pin inserts to 8/32 thread. Each hole should be around 1" from the pins' end. The right rear sponson pin must have 2 holes drilled. 40. Align your pins using a straight rod through your bolt holes before you epoxy the pins in place.

38. Glue Sponson nose blocks and shape carefully. *Mario's tip: I made a wedge that notches into the trailing edge of the sponson and allows me to use a long clamp for the sponson nose block gluing. This made the blocks very tight and very clean!

36. Flip your sponsons over and use two-part expanding pour foam to fill each cavity. Cut and sand smooth when foam hardens. 37. The sponsons' ride surfaces can be made from 1/16" wood, Carbon fiber sheet or G10. For this boat, we used 1mm carbon fiber. Cut material to appropriate size with...