after run suggestions/ opinions

joseph puglia · Mar 4, 2013

I know there are posts about this but they are old. Just curious what people are using and had success with, as for keeping the crank from rusting and keeping internals lubed well.

Things I've used

- wd40 while turning over. Then some motor oil ( works fine but people say WD can be bad for seals etc.)

- 4 to 1only, metholol / oil ( 4 motors ended up with rusty cranks)

- currently 4 to 1 then auto trans fluid. ( don't have results yet as just started)

Also considering removing motors to apply trans fluid to make sure it is everywhere then drain excess.

JeremyEdge · Mar 4, 2013

Corrosion X.......

allenrichards1 · Mar 4, 2013

I use air tool oil as an after run.

steve wood · Mar 4, 2013

Elias Vazquez · Mar 4, 2013

JeremyEdge said:
Corrosion X.......

+1

Brian Sorgente · Mar 4, 2013

JeremyEdge said:
Corrosion X.......

+2

Norm Doerr · Mar 4, 2013

Oh boy.

Years ago a bunch of us were asking all the national level racers we could about what they used. We heard all sorts of things ranging from procedures at the end of the day to what snake oil they chose. Soooooo it just became more confusing. In light of that, I took the the most popular stuff mixed it together in a gallon jug and it seemed to work. I figured that I could not miss IF it all was "the best"

Here is what I found- Flush the engine with WD or C X

Then pickle it with this:

ATF 35 percent

Rislone 20 percent

SDP 10 percent

Marvels Mystery Oil 20 percent

The rest is YOUR choice.. Engine Oil, Rear End Lube, etc. etc. Whatever you have left over in the shop.

steve wood · Mar 4, 2013

I get motors that are treated with every thing imaginable,including corrison x,and it doesn't matter what you use ,if you don't get all the alky,nitro,and water out they will still rust

FloridaScaleBoater · Mar 4, 2013

Tom Foley suggested this a few years ago.

Use the Mercury storage/fogging oil,, it's what it's designed for..

No I did find a couple of years ago, that Merc's formula changed for a short period of time,, it was a thinner, clear liquid, instead of the foaming stuff.

I have a GOOD stash of it,, I use it to flush the engines, then use Marvel mixed with a thickener, to help it "cling" to the parts

dr gary turner · Mar 4, 2013

Flush with WD-40 throughly then use Corrosion X

John Beardslee · Mar 4, 2013

We always used WD40 with 20% Marvel Mystery Oil or ATF and would flood the engines through the plug hole and role the engine through a number of strokes to cover all the bearing and crank surfaces. Nitro is really corrosive and can pock mark those surfaces in less that 24 hrs. Now after Glenn's advise from Nova Rossi I use Turbine oil. It won't attack the crank plugs used in their engines. I still flood the engines with the stuff and I'm sure I use more than is needed but that's just me.

John

Norm Doerr · Mar 4, 2013

I think it may have been Gary Preusse used to run the engine in the pits at the end of the day on a mixture of alky and oil.

Al Hobbs · Mar 4, 2013

I flush the engine with WD-40 or CX. Then I blow it all out and flush it again. I blow all that out, then I fill the engine with a 50/50 mixture of ATF and Rislone, and turn the engine over slowly so the oil will move throughout the engine. ATF is made to flow into the tiniest spots and Rislone does not drain away as quickly.

Smokes a lot the next time the engine is fired up.

I do know several long time boaters that run the engine with an 80% methanol and 20% oil mixture at the end of the day. They say that it burns out all of the nitro and removes all of the water.

Al Hobbs

dwilfong · Mar 4, 2013

I always remove the eng from the boat to clean after running it.

First I spray the eng down inside and out with CRC electric motive. then I fill the eng with it thew the ex port and spin the eng at BDC to rinse out the bearings. Will hold the eng nose down and fill the back side of the flywheel also to clean the front bearing.

Take the eng and bring it to TDC and put a blow gun in the plug hole. This will spin the eng like it is running.

Now fill the eng with Spray on 711(no silicates) and repeat. finally if it will sit for a long time some non detergent 20w oil and repeat.

Don't forget about the front bearing and the water jacket it needs some love to.

David Murany · Mar 4, 2013

I've heard that WD-40 is bad for the 21 engines with the filled cranks. Not sure if its true but hopefully someone chimes in here because I would like to know for sure. We use Marvel air tool oil on those motors and it works well. WD-40 on the rest.

Tom Foley · Mar 4, 2013

Norm Doerr said:
I think it may have been Gary Preusse used to run the engine in the pits at the end of the day on a mixture of alky and oil.

At the end of the day all I 'm looking for is my cooler of ice cold St Pauli Girl BEER ! I usually do the thin lube flush followed by the ATF , fogging oil , Air tool oil or whats ever left in my stash !!!!

Norm Doerr · Mar 4, 2013

Tom Foley said:
Norm Doerr said:

I think it may have been Gary Preusse used to run the engine in the pits at the end of the day on a mixture of alky and oil.

Click to expand...

At the end of the day all I 'm looking for is my cooler of ice cold St Pauli Girl BEER ! I usually do the thin lube flush followed by the ATF , fogging oil , Air tool oil or whats ever left in my stash !!!!

With the fleet you run I can fully understand where you are coming from.

shoboat · Mar 4, 2013

Clean out with alcohol first then proceed with Rislone.

The trick is to pull your motors out of the boat and clean them out in

multiple positions so you get all the Nitro and water out of the motor,

before the Rislone treatment goes in. I use plenty of both to keep the

Motors happy until the next propeller testing session. May give the

Turbine Oil I shot this year on my ramped engines. Rislone has been

Great for over 20+ years for me in the hobby. Time tested I feel, hard

To beat the test of time.

Thanks For Reading Fellas,

Mark Sholund

Ron Jefferson · Mar 4, 2013

This is what I use. In one of the brochures I read, it mentions bearings and water dispercent. Been using it for 5 years now with no issues at all. I remove all my engines after each outing, totally blow out and fill the crank case as well as remove the water jacket and spray the inside. Then I wrap it up in shop towels to soak up all the access. Works for me...

http://www.krown.com/products/aerosol-products/t40-rust-inhibitor-lubricant/

Ron

anthony_marquart · Mar 4, 2013

I like how this topic comes up again and again. It's really important. IMO, the 2 aspects of this are :

1. get the fuel out..

2. lube the crap out of it.

Good to let the engine run out of fuel,, start it,.. pull the fuel line.. just don't let it over rev as it goes lean.

I have used many things.. as simple as just motor oil. I use 50/50 ATF and a heavy motor oil.. Some one told me once,.. after you think you have run enough oil thru it for after run,,.. do it 2 more times. I totally flood the motor with this and blow it out like 3 times when I'm done running. I don't take them out of the boat.. the inside of my motors looks brand new except for the top of the piston and the head button,, or if a sleeve gets a scratch from a plug coil..

after run suggestions/ opinions

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