outrigger

I want to build a .60/90 size rigger from scratch ...does anyone have any specs or dimensions i could use as a reference?

I will give you what ever measurements you need from mine. Where do you want to start?

Mike

Some plans:

http://www.smbf.info/Hydro/ritningar.htm

I have no idea how good these boats are tho... :huh:

Ian.

Welcome to Trial-and-errorsville.

Even the experts cant agree on what size is right. I have a hummingbird 60/80 Rigger that is about the same size as my 45 Eagle SG. I cant see how an 80 would go in one of those for circuit racing because it just seems so **** small!!! I may have another opinion on that once I get it sorted out (MAC 67 in it at the moment) but there you have two experienced boaters with different theories for the same size engine.

I would also take into consideration what you have to put into the boat when determining things like the width of the boat and the spacing of the front sponson booms. The old Stinger (Australian) hydro was designed so the width of the boat accommodated the Sullivan tanks (2 side by side) So if you are building a 90 rigger and you want 20-24 oz of fuel then measure up 2 10-12 oz sullivan tanks side by side (or maybe a 16 oz and a 4 oz header tank) and see what space you requireconsidering the tanks usually go in the compartment between the sponson booms. If you are good at making metal tanks or want to spend the $$$ getting custom tanks done then this becomes less critical.

Just think about what your boat has to carry so you dont have headaches fitting stuff in later.

EMS Racing Old enough to know better

"I have a hummingbird 60/80 Rigger that is about the same size as my 45 Eagle SG. I cant see how an 80 would go in one of those for circuit racing because it just seems so **** small!!!"

Been there, done that, with that exact boat. Too small. She was fast no doubt, as long as you were on a good sized course & out front. Mix it up "in traffic" and/or on a smaller pond where water gets rougher & it got real ugly real quick. The Hummer is one of the finest constructed riggers you'll ever see, just needs to "grow" a little for the bigger motors. Rumor has it this is in "the works". As for the tanks, I'd definitely spend the extra $$ on a custom metal tank as it will allow you much greater flexibility on hull width. A pair of 12 oz. tanks side by side dictates a hull over 5" wide inside to inside plus you still need a hopper. Metal tank gives you all in one, internal hopper. One line in, one line out. A perfect example of the KISS principle.

Old enough to know better .............. but still young enough not to care! B)

I know you say you want to build one from scratch but this a **** good deal on a really good rigger.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...&category=19166

Five inches??? hmmmm better go measure my old 90 boat up...

And is 5 inches a problem? (waiting for the obvious replies here) The old Eagle riggers were pretty close to that, well close enough that my 90 Eagle looks as wide as my 90 Stinger....

And is this boat going to be the end product or a prototype in a development project? Twin tanks like that worked for me for years. Only just got into metal tanks and only because I was too lazy to get the brass tubing bent just right so it sat in that little bubble on the tank just right... heheheh

Ahhhhhh FAR TOO MUCH CAFFEINE FOR ME!!!!!

EMS Racing 5.22 am I should be in bed!!!

A single Sullivan 12oz tank is a little over 2 1/2" wide. Nothing wrong with a 5" tub .. as long as aerodynamics don't become too much a factor.........

I am starting to like the wider tubs again for simply practical reasons. The wider tubs are much stiffer in torsion (twisting along the length) and provide a stiffer mounting platform for the sponson booms simple because they are wider. And if the shape is correct then the aerodynamics can be beneficial!

I have just gone to bigger boms on my 90 because of stiffness problems.

Nitrocrazed racing: too much re-work....

You can actually have more torsional twisting as you move futher from a square to a rectangular cross section. At least that's what I've seen myself in some instances. Now if you sheet the tub bottom with thick enough ply you could add rigidity but the weight gain wouldn't make it practical. I can say from actual experience that some torsional flex is not a bad thing. As for the wider bolt pattern on the boom tubes being better, that can be true, it depends on your choice of tube material.