Building a rigger

MarkScott · Dec 31, 2003

I inquired before and one responded on this subject. Got a Dumas Quickie 40 that I'm building for my wife. Yea, I know, it's not the greatest out there, but this is only for fun, not racing. However, I do want to get the most out of the boat... One response back was to not use the Dumas hardware and keep the rear spoons movable. I agree on both, but I'll use what hardware I have to keep cost down. Engine mount will be solid, not rubber and it'll have a single bent stuffing tube.

Main question: What angle should the engine be since the Q40 design is at 0 with a double bent stuffing tube. Wade has told me that the HH12 is set at 14 degrees. Is this the norm for riggers?

Are there any other suggestions? Keep the rear spoons normal size / position? Make them smaller and move them underneath???

Any and all help would be appreciated by this tunnel builder....

Mark.......

TomMoorehouse · Dec 31, 2003

it is a debate.....

I believe that an "S" bend in your stuffing tube will be the better way to go. The arguement is that with the cable only touching only 1 surface (without an S bend) it will whip around the tube and actually cause more drag.

The flip side of the arguement is that 2 bends will cause more drag because it is harder to turn the cable touching more surface area.

My boats personally have small S bends.

MikeP · Jan 9, 2004

OB Nut,

You can make a rubber insulated motor mount like the Eagle SG pretty cheep if you can drill and tap a couple of holes in some square alu. A solid mount 40 doesn't sound good to me. I would be happy to help you out with the mount if you want.

The HH12 has more angle in the motor to keep the stuffing box out of the radio box, that is more than normal. I personall like to get as straight as possible to the strut.

Mike

guest-- · Jan 9, 2004

I would like to add that a 14 Deg. sounds close plus if you lightly sand where the bend is, friction will be less and where there is no bend the ribs of the flex will retain flex goop or grease better and where you sand won't hold grease or fluid no matter so drag and noise will be cut down . Been there, Done that. you shouldn't have to worry as you are not pulling a Mack truck! LOL

MarkScott · Jan 9, 2004

If you ever saw the plans for the Q40, one would grimmice at the bend they use.. I do have a sport 40 in our collection. It's tube is very straight with a slight bend at the hull exit.

Tom,

Do you still keep the motor mount at 0 degree? Maybe 10 degree with a 2 degree on the double bends?? (numbers used just for the heck of it..)

MikeP,

Think there was a previous post on the rubber mount you mention? Since it was something along the line of drilling a 1/4 hole into a 3/16 alum. stock.. I would be interested to see any pics you might have of this setup..

Guest, took me awhile to figure out that the sanding you mentioned is to be done on the cable.. Interesting...

Thanks all...

Mark..

Preston_Hall · Jan 9, 2004

If you set your strut and then take your stuffing tube and bend it as little as possible to get it close to the collet location then your engine angle will be a given and as flat as possible. The shaft will also be as straight as possible. "S" bends may be fine but there are plenty of very fast boats that don't make noise/vibration.

MikeP · Jan 9, 2004

Ob Nut,

Ya, it takes a special drill bit to drill a 1/4" hole in the 3/16" stock.

Mike

Guest_guest · Jan 9, 2004

You are correct at 10 Deg. on major bend and 2 Deg. at the collet. The sanding i pickup from Ernie Lazenby of U.K., a guru. He used to write for Marine Modelling Illustration Mag. in U.K.. The trouble is ,it makes sense. I use a drill and mark off the approx. area and use 800-1200 wetdry and knock off the ridges enough to what i think should be enough and call it quits. I don't race any more, just fast fun, so things aren't that critical anymore plus the cost nowdays puts me in hot water with the cook and i don't cook!! LOL

MarkScott · Jan 9, 2004

Any thoughts on the rear spoon design? Leave em large? Movable? Small and underneath?

Thanks again for the ideas - suggestions - input.. This is really help'n.

Mark..

OB Nut Racing.... The engine goes [SIZE=14pt]WHERE[/SIZE]?

waterbug · Jan 9, 2004

While we are talking angles ? What about a 45 Sport 40 HYDRO ???

TomMoorehouse · Jan 9, 2004

OB Nut said:
Any thoughts on the rear spoon design? Leave em large? Movable? Small and underneath?
Thanks again for the ideas - suggestions - input.. This is really help'n.

Mark..

OB Nut Racing.... The engine goes [SIZE=14pt]WHERE[/SIZE]?

i once thought to make my rears big like training wheels for easier driving...... it was a missconception..... make normal size ones.... not too big not too small

i like mine on the side held on with servo tape

MikeP · Jan 9, 2004

Tom,

Since we are talking rear sponsons, what is the ride height and angle of attack on the FF .21

Mike

TomMoorehouse · Jan 9, 2004

i need to make you a whole setup instructions sheet... let me work on it and ill email it....

cadzilla · Feb 1, 2004

I am also bulding a Q40......not a bad boat for the price. Nothing fancy, but I like building more than running. From my experience, a single bend stuffing tube worked the best with a 3/16" flex......the boat's length is too short for smooth "S" bends, so the flex cable binds up. Also, since the hull width is 3.5", it was hard to come up with a decent motor mount (4 and 5" being standard). A tidewater 4" mount from Al's in Elmhurst without the outside aluminum fits perfectly. (I'm using an O.S. 46 VX-M). Mount is set a 15 degree angle to allow slight bend of stuffing tube. Also, build your own cowl.....the one supplied with the kit looks stupid. If you want pics, let me know. They're too big to post.

MarkScott · Feb 1, 2004

Cad, love to see the pics you have.. And yea, I plan on building my own cowl.

Most likely out of carbon fiber, possible from kevlar..

Mark..

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