Are you scratch building it, or is it a Dumas kit? What size engine is it for? Ive built a 20 and a 40 size Pak from Dumas kits and am building 60 size Pak also from a Dumas kit....There is also a gentleman that goes by Hydro Junkie that has a bunch of experience with that type of boat that will chime in, im sure....are you going to build the '73,74,75 piston engine version? Thats what im building or TRYING to build.....I was wondering how I would go about building a jig for the Pay n Pak? This is my first build and I want it as straight as I can get it. Thanks for any info. John
Okay Bill, my ears started ringing. I have to ask the same thing, are you building from plans and if so, from who, or a kit? There is a considerable amount of difference between the various plan sets and the Dumas kit, so knowing which boat and size you are building will make answering your question much easierAre you scratch building it, or is it a Dumas kit? What size engine is it for? Ive built a 20 and a 40 size Pak from Dumas kits and am building 60 size Pak also from a Dumas kit....There is also a gentleman that goes by Hydro Junkie that has a bunch of experience with that type of boat that will chime in, im sure....are you going to build the '73,74,75 piston engine version? Thats what im building or TRYING to build.....I was wondering how I would go about building a jig for the Pay n Pak? This is my first build and I want it as straight as I can get it. Thanks for any info. John
I built a 60 size a couple years ago and followed the Dumas instructions for building the jig-it was so bad I gave it to my neighbor for kindeling in her fireplace. Ended up using the building jig/boat stand I made for the Dumas AVL boat I built almost 30 years ago.Okay Bill, my ears started ringing. I have to ask the same thing, are you building from plans and if so, from who, or a kit? There is a considerable amount of difference between the various plan sets and the Dumas kit, so knowing which boat and size you are building will make answering your question much easierAre you scratch building it, or is it a Dumas kit? What size engine is it for? Ive built a 20 and a 40 size Pak from Dumas kits and am building 60 size Pak also from a Dumas kit....There is also a gentleman that goes by Hydro Junkie that has a bunch of experience with that type of boat that will chime in, im sure....are you going to build the '73,74,75 piston engine version? Thats what im building or TRYING to build.....I was wondering how I would go about building a jig for the Pay n Pak? This is my first build and I want it as straight as I can get it. Thanks for any info. John
Bill, since when am I called a gentleman? I thought I was a royal rat
I am building a 20 size kit from dumas. This is my first time building so I think it is going to be a challange but fun.I built a 60 size a couple years ago and followed the Dumas instructions for building the jig-it was so bad I gave it to my neighbor for kindeling in her fireplace. Ended up using the building jig/boat stand I made for the Dumas AVL boat I built almost 30 years ago.Okay Bill, my ears started ringing. I have to ask the same thing, are you building from plans and if so, from who, or a kit? There is a considerable amount of difference between the various plan sets and the Dumas kit, so knowing which boat and size you are building will make answering your question much easierAre you scratch building it, or is it a Dumas kit? What size engine is it for? Ive built a 20 and a 40 size Pak from Dumas kits and am building 60 size Pak also from a Dumas kit....There is also a gentleman that goes by Hydro Junkie that has a bunch of experience with that type of boat that will chime in, im sure....are you going to build the '73,74,75 piston engine version? Thats what im building or TRYING to build.....I was wondering how I would go about building a jig for the Pay n Pak? This is my first build and I want it as straight as I can get it. Thanks for any info. John
Bill, since when am I called a gentleman? I thought I was a royal rat
Glenn
The boat I showed you is a scaled down Newton and is the way I would go. I made a few slight mods to the plans, not much though. If you want to build from plans, you might want to go with option 3 as it's based on a plans build. I only made one real change in the design, that being the bottom profile, but if I were building the boat, I would have made more, but that's meAwesome info. I will be racing it so I will go with the info from you guys. Thanks alot. Now if I wanted to build a 40 and 60 size how do I go about that? Do I do bigger scale or is it easier to get the plans from newton? (it will be when I'm done with this project)
And that my friend is why id hoped youd get in on this one.....A first time builder just got alot of GOOD information!The boat I showed you is a scaled down Newton and is the way I would go. I made a few slight mods to the plans, not much though. If you want to build from plans, you might want to go with option 3 as it's based on a plans build. I only made one real change in the design, that being the bottom profile, but if I were building the boat, I would have made more, but that's meAwesome info. I will be racing it so I will go with the info from you guys. Thanks alot. Now if I wanted to build a 40 and 60 size how do I go about that? Do I do bigger scale or is it easier to get the plans from newton? (it will be when I'm done with this project)
RJ...Ditto on the wood cowls...it does seem to take as long to build as the hull itself! Sounds like your doing everything right...thats a GREAT little motor...ive got one in a 20 rigger and its been one of the most dependable and easy to needle motors ive ever owned..im using a set of those Solinger mounts in a Sport 20 hydro that im building....too easy! I LIKE EM! Keep us posted on your progress..cant wait to see a pic of it all finished and skimmin across the pond! Wood Boats rule!Heres a pic of my Dumas Pay N pak 20.
First, I cant beleive that they actually mention using wood screws for the turn fin & rudder...I'm using Speedmasters .21/40 rudder and square bottom strut. The turnfin I picked up from a hong kong seller on ebay. I used 6-32 T-nuts for my turnfin mount (1/8 ply doubler on inside)
I was going to go ahead and use this engine mount, instead of the dumas one...
I wanted to keep the Dumas flavor and built it according to the plans more or less. What I've done was to make cutouts in all the frames & bulkheads in an attempt to keep the weight down. I did add 1/8 square stock along the bottom like HJ says as well as the top deck, especially along the non trip chines.
My next step was to remove the bulkhead 7, and just make bulkheads 5 & 6 my radio box.
The hull feels really light as of now. However I took a bottle of drinking water, which weighs .09 ounces (.5liter) and its definately heavier than the hull....
I remember that the cowl took almost as long to build as the hull on my 40 size U-76, I'm pretty much expecting the same here......
Cool trick that I'l share, I used my wifes iron and by holding and bending the sponsons sides and decks, I was able to get a nice bend in them so that they may fit over curves better. Just sprinkle a little bit of water over the area you want to bend and put the iron over your 1/16 ply skin and gently pull up and pressing down on the iron you'l get a nice bend....
When I epoxied the decks on, I placed the hull upside down so that the epoxy would flow onto the underside of the deck, instead of flowing down over the frames....
Decking, sponson sides and bottoms can also be bent to fit just using hot water and taping the heck out of em(on the hull) and just walk away for a couple days. Room temp.-not some cold garage. Don't bother sanding the skins before you do this as it will raise the grain a little.Heres a pic of my Dumas Pay N pak 20.
First, I cant beleive that they actually mention using wood screws for the turn fin & rudder...I'm using Speedmasters .21/40 rudder and square bottom strut. The turnfin I picked up from a hong kong seller on ebay. I used 6-32 T-nuts for my turnfin mount (1/8 ply doubler on inside)
I was going to go ahead and use this engine mount, instead of the dumas one...
I wanted to keep the Dumas flavor and built it according to the plans more or less. What I've done was to make cutouts in all the frames & bulkheads in an attempt to keep the weight down. I did add 1/8 square stock along the bottom like HJ says as well as the top deck, especially along the non trip chines.
My next step was to remove the bulkhead 7, and just make bulkheads 5 & 6 my radio box.
The hull feels really light as of now. However I took a bottle of drinking water, which weighs .09 ounces (.5liter) and its definately heavier than the hull....
I remember that the cowl took almost as long to build as the hull on my 40 size U-76, I'm pretty much expecting the same here......
Cool trick that I'l share, I used my wifes iron and by holding and bending the sponsons sides and decks, I was able to get a nice bend in them so that they may fit over curves better. Just sprinkle a little bit of water over the area you want to bend and put the iron over your 1/16 ply skin and gently pull up and pressing down on the iron you'l get a nice bend....
When I epoxied the decks on, I placed the hull upside down so that the epoxy would flow onto the underside of the deck, instead of flowing down over the frames....
Whatever jig you use I recommend you make it out of heavy duty water resistent particle board. That stuff is really dead and plywood tends to warp. I have always used Liquid Nails and clamps. I always get a smaller pice of particle board, cover it with wax paper and build the sponsons on that. Then I push pin the sponsons on to the main jig that you already the bottom and transom on. That way you can really do a good job of measuring to make sure you get a straight boat.I was wondering how I would go about building a jig for the Pay n Pak? This is my first build and I want it as straight as I can get it. Thanks for any info. John
I think the particle board you're talking about is called MDF(no I don't know what it stands for). Lowes or home depot shelving dept. 1" thick cut to width on a table saw. And use the wax paper so you don't glue the boat to the jig.Whatever jig you use I recommend you make it out of heavy duty water resistent particle board. That stuff is really dead and plywood tends to warp. I have always used Liquid Nails and clamps. I always get a smaller pice of particle board, cover it with wax paper and build the sponsons on that. Then I push pin the sponsons on to the main jig that you already the bottom and transom on. That way you can really do a good job of measuring to make sure you get a straight boat.I was wondering how I would go about building a jig for the Pay n Pak? This is my first build and I want it as straight as I can get it. Thanks for any info. John
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