That's strange, with the new Arachne perimeter generator I can't even tell the difference between the .4 and .6 nozzle except my prints are about 1 hour or so less now. I guess there are many variables.I went to a .6 nozzle and the prints turned out worse.
For sure! If you are more interested in the parts you are printing than tinker with the printer itself, Prusa is fantastic.I own the MK3s and it has been a fantastic machine so far. When I first got into it I did a ton of research and the Prusa is what I ended up with. Highly recommended for sure.
Hey Mike, ive been printing for about 6 years or so, how do you like the resin printer? Ive been looking into them. also, if it helps, here are my retraction settings for retraction on PETG, works wellAfter having a resin printer for a few years I have finally added a filament printer to my shop. I ordered the Prusa i3 MK3 kit. The printer comes with a roll of their PLA so that is what I used for all of my first prints. I have just moved over to PETG. The only difference I have found is very slight stringing which was non existent with the PLA. A friend recommended I increase the temperature of the hot end by 10deg. and make sure the printer is not in any drafts from open doors etc. I have yet to try the temperature increase. All parts in pics are the Eryone PETG. I have not tried any other brands yet
Hi Jason, Thanks for that info. Would those settings be for a Bowden style printer or direct drive? I really love the fine detail I can get with the resin printer. The Epax X1 that I have has been excellent. Consumables are FEP film and once in a while the LCD screen. Many resins are quite brittle. The Siraya Tech resins are some of the strongest I have used. I have found that the cured resin machines very well. Sometimes I will print solid and pocket with the mill. I stay away from supports unless absolutely necessary.Hey Mike, ive been printing for about 6 years or so, how do you like the resin printer? Ive been looking into them. also, if it helps, here are my retraction settings for retraction on PETG, works well
your so lucky to live next to a microcenter lol, id be broke. And yeah, only time i had an issue with "wet" filament was nylon. and thats a nightmare on a good dayI guess I have been pretty lucky. The only real issue I had with PETG was getting the first layer to stick on the OEM build plate. That was resolved by an after market printer plate from Printed Solid - 3D Printers, Service, Training and Supplies
I don't have my settings committed to memory. However, when using my Prusa MK3 the default filament profiles for PETG get me pretty darn close. I some cases I will adjust some of the temperatures slightly from roll to roll. And those adjustments seem to be trial and error more than anything.
In nearly all cases, I am using and Inland brand of filament. I am somewhat spoiled, because It's stocked at a local MicroCenter store allowing me to pick up rolls on an as needed basis. I've used their PETG and PETG+ very successfully. petg : Micro Center
Another note, I read a lot about the need to dry filament. I have never needed to dry filament. My printer and the rolls (loaded in the machine), will sit for months at a time in a basement. When I store unloaded material it's kept in a bag with a couple Silica Gel packs.
WOW those look great. ill have to put that on my bucket list for this winter. and yes, those settings are for direct drive.Hi Jason, Thanks for that info. Would those settings be for a Bowden style printer or direct drive? I really love the fine detail I can get with the resin printer. The Epax X1 that I have has been excellent. Consumables are FEP film and once in a while the LCD screen. Many resins are quite brittle. The Siraya Tech resins are some of the strongest I have used. I have found that the cured resin machines very well. Sometimes I will print solid and pocket with the mill. I stay away from supports unless absolutely necessary.
Definitely swings and roundabouts on the two different types, between the two I think I've got everything covered.
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