Which "After Run" Oil to Use?

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ATF is perfectly suited for our application as a "after run" oil. Lots of anit corrosion additives, and it's cheap. I can buy a case of ATF for about what a big bottle of Corrosion X costs. I prefer the old "Type F" ATF as it is a bit thicker and the chain parts stores carry type F. I like to flush 1st with WD 40 and then add a bunch of ATF then flush, and repeat again with ATF. My MAC .21 has gone 2 full seasons running %65 with this maintence procedure and the bearings are still fine.

Josh-
 
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I think keeping the piston below the ports helps also, and doesn't trap any gasses inside the case.

I've bought used motors before that have had been sitting awhile, and the piston is clearly marked by corrosion where the piston had sat past the ports, keeping the gasses trapped in.

Keeping the carb and the ports open during long storage, plus pulling the hoses might also be a good idea. It's the nitro gasses and compounds that will chew anything. I don't think the alky or water has the largest affect on corrosion. The key is making sure you have flushed whatever contaminated oil the engine contains with fresh stuff, because the old oil is what suspends all the nasty compounds and doesnt release it before corrosion has its chance.
 
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After approx. a year in the hobby, I have gone back and forth several times in regards to which after run oil is best to use. Being new, I tend to rely on the advice of all of you more experienced hobbyists, but sometimes like is expected I see conflicting reports and then wonder what to do. I have seen opinions expressed about using transmission fluid, Marvels Mystery Oil, air tool oil and others and I thought I'd just ask here and see what comes out as being the consensus all around favorite from you all. What is the "best" oil to use to pickle you engine? Please share your opinion.
A lot of the guys in the Pacififc Northwest use a Justice Brothers Product called JB-80. This stuff works great. It has a nice foaming action that really gets into the bearings and nicely coats the parts. It's kind of stinky but works really well.

For me personally it only has to last until I get home from a race and then I tear the motor down, hose it out with brake cleaner (outside) and blow everything out with air and lube everything up with Risoline, which has a ton of great anti-corrosion and anti-rust additives.
 
Okay I'm immediately throwing out the 3 bottles of Marvel Mystery Oil that I have on the shelf. That's for sure. Maybe I'll try to feed that stuff to my neighbors cat who likes to sleep on my truck hood! Which of the above solutions will replace my past pickling procedure, I'm not sure of yet, but there will be a new solution tried. I've got a bunch of ATF on hand, therefore, I think I go to that in the near term along with the universally accepted WD-40 rinse. I will be checking out the availability of both fogging oil and the larger spray bottle size of Corrosion-X in a marine supply store also, given that I can find a marine supply store here in the high desert area of Southern California!
 
Okay I'm immediately throwing out the 3 bottles of Marvel Mystery Oil that I have on the shelf. That's for sure. Maybe I'll try to feed that stuff to my neighbors cat who likes to sleep on my truck hood! Which of the above solutions will replace my past pickling procedure, I'm not sure of yet, but there will be a new solution tried. I've got a bunch of ATF on hand, therefore, I think I go to that in the near term along with the universally accepted WD-40 rinse. I will be checking out the availability of both fogging oil and the larger spray bottle size of Corrosion-X in a marine supply store also, given that I can find a marine supply store here in the high desert area of Southern California!
Cats don't like Marvels... Use one part ATF, One part Rislone, One part Mercury Marine oil, or 70 90 weight automotive oil.
 
Sure Norm, only in the cardboard can right. Do you actually have a spout for that still? :D
Yes. SEVERAL spouts I have three generations of spouts....LOL I should sell them on eBay... I also have three cans of Kendall " Nitro 70" engine oil with Don Garlits on the can...LOL... One thing everybody should know...DON'T use GM "positraction oil" It smells BAD. LOL
 
I recon for me it depends on the term of storage as I as some of the othres in the thread live in fla. If its a race weekend I blow it out with wd-40 adn use a light weight castor for overnight storage. The next day the castor dissolves quickly with the fuel so the engine clears out quickly... As for long term storage here recently I blow the engine out at the pond with WD and when i get home I tear it down and clean everything. I reassemble it and use a product called Viscotene, its distributed by Wynn's products and seems to work really well. When you spray it is comes out thin like WD and remains that was for about a minute and upon standing it gets the consistancy of gear lube. It never actually hardens and seems to clear out relatively easy. I haven't had any rust issues with it yet, been using it about a year now.
 

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