Which "After Run" Oil to Use?

[CRT_MAN]

so it looks like we all have are own methods but they are all similar to one another i will use wd to flush and mmo to lube it has worked for me for the last 2 years so i will keep on doing it this way

 

[Tom Foley]

so it looks like we all have are own methods but they are all similar to one another i will use wd to flush and mmo to lube it has worked for me for the last 2 years so i will keep on doing it this way

Long term storage is the only thing that would affect my decision on a lube but you cant argue with trans fluid or fogging oil .....both don't solidify over time .

 

[Joe_Knesek]

I completely fill the motor with WD-40 & wiggle the crank around then pour it out. Repeat 3 times & then fill it with air tool oil. Using my flow meter I blow C02 through the water jacket to remove the water. Finally I fill the water jacket with air tool oil, wrap it up in a towel store it in an airtight Pelican box. It's overkill but cheap & quick.

 

[dr gary turner]

I have tried them all. They have all failed to prevent corrosion EXCEPT!!!!!!!!!!! Flushing the motor with WD 40 and filling the motor with Corrosion X !!!!!!!!! The secret is the Corrosion X. Bill McGraw put me on to this stuff and bearing issues have disappeared. It maybe pricey but so is a blown bearing and motor. Gary

 

[Pete Markese]

Yowzer! To coin an old phrase... "It appears that there's more than one way to skin a cat!" I kind of knew this would be the case, but I'm glad I asked anyway, because as is usually the case, I've learned a couple of new things here.

To be honest, the reason I initiated this thread was because I was just recently shocked to read where a very well-known rc boating authority totally negated the use of Marvels Mystery Oil. I was obviously disturbed since MMO has been my engine pickling solution of choice. Said authority mentioned that MMO had an ingredient - Scent of Wintergreen - that is supposed to be very caustic to plastic and rubber. It was also claimed that MMO tends to gum up over time and that it would definitely cause bearing failure. It is reassuring to see that the majority of respondents to date on this thread would take issue with this warning. Has anyone else ever heard anything of this nature in regards to MMO?

I've gained some new insight into other methods of protecting my engine investment and do appreciate all of your input. I would like to ask and hopefully this doesn't sound too ignorant on my part...what is "fogging oil?" That's a new one for me, but something that I think I'd like to have on hand. Where do you find that stuff? It's good to hear that everyone agrees on the use of WD-40 for the initial after-run rinse, and it appears that MMO, ATF, air tool oil, gear oil and combinations of same are all good products for engine care. I've always heard that Corrosion-X is an excellent product, but haven't been able to convince myself to commit the dollars given the quantities required to do the job. Just maybe my priorities are confused on that one, especially considering the adamant response from the prior respondent.

Thanks again for all of your input. I do appreciate it.

 

[Tom w]

.

 

[Don Ferrette]

To be honest, the reason I initiated this thread was because I was just recently shocked to read where a very well-known rc boating authority totally negated the use of Marvels Mystery Oil. I was obviously disturbed since MMO has been my engine pickling solution of choice. Said authority mentioned that MMO had an ingredient - Scent of Wintergreen - that is supposed to be very caustic to plastic and rubber. It was also claimed that MMO tends to gum up over time and that it would definitely cause bearing failure. It is reassuring to see that the majority of respondents to date on this thread would take issue with this

I personally would not use MMO for both the reasons of the ingredients & the film it leaves behind. However, regarding said film, I believe it was Rod Geraghty who turned me on to a neat trick a while back- when reassembling an engine, dip the threaded area of the previously cleaned bolts in MMO when you install & torque them, the film in question helps hold the bolts from vibrating loose. B)

 

[moparbarn]

i don't have a bottle of marvel AIR TOOL oil nearby to check, but had understood that it doesn't contain wintergreen oil. this is because of it's intended use in air tools-they have rubber seals and o-rings. plus it has stuff the help with moisture present in most air lines. been use it as an ingredient in after run mix for ages, no issues so far.......

pete, a marine supply or ob boat dealer will have fogging oil, used in full size ob's, for long term storage. you're right, there's as many opinions on this as there are people involved, don't think any of it will hurt a motor, with the possible exception of marvel mystery oil & the o-rings & seals.

 

[Rigged]

I have tried them all. They have all failed to prevent corrosion EXCEPT!!!!!!!!!!! Flushing the motor with WD 40 and filling the motor with Corrosion X !!!!!!!!! The secret is the Corrosion X. Bill McGraw put me on to this stuff and bearing issues have disappeared. It maybe pricey but so is a blown bearing and motor. Gary

Yup Corrosion X is some great stuff Not only protects your motor... but can bring recievers and servo's back to life after being introduced to water.

 

[nitrotwin]

NAPA auto parts have the fogging oil I use the WD40 and fogging oil from NAPA JWB

 

[Wasted wages]

Corrosion X

nuff said...worth every penny.

I never thought much about the receiver/servo trick until I forgot and left an open radio box that got full of rain water in the back of my pickup for 4 days.

I thought well,,,this stuff is toast,,digital servos,synthesized radio,,,then I thought,, what do I have to lose?

Broke open the servos and receiver,,sprayed in the Corr-X.

The radio and servos still work perfect today.

10 bucks a can vs 200.00 in radio parts,,yeah it's worth it.

 

[Grimracer]

From what I understand MMO and MM Air Tool oil are not the same...

It’s the MMO that is known for its funky additives. Im not sure about the MM Air Tool Oil, I have never used it.

For me......Flush the engine out with WD (make sure you get the water jacket) and then follow up with good old Air Tool Oil.

Grimracer

 

[robertpickard]

I have JR will never go back to futaba three year warrenty on everything had a friend send stuff back 5 years later they back up everything. Unlike futaba

 

[Grimracer]

What? :huh:

 

[moparbarn]

What? :huh:

my thoughts, exactly :blink:

grim, headed home now, will check mmo air tool oil, let you know in the a.m.

 

[Marty Davis]

Suggest that you consider this:

http://engine-analysis-software.com/after.htm

Marty Davis

 

[misshydro]

What about car tranny fluids?? It does have cleaning properties and lubercants in it and it's a light weight oil,Plus I use it in my airtools too. I know it cleans,because I use it at times to wash hard to wash greasy hands and it work!!I was told by an oldtime about that trick. Plus the store bought afterrun oil looks like tranny fluid. I nomaily use WD 40 as my after run oil and I notices my motor fires up faster since I use that stuff.

 

[MarkScott]

I used MMO for long term storage.. Threw the motors out due to the film that built up on everything. WD40 and ATF works for me...

 

[jetpack]

I'm planning on going this route...

On the last run go with a straight mix of 80/20 all castor in a seperate hopper to flush the nitro compounds out and leave an all castor film in the motor. Its the best I hear of corrosion protection and zero need for manual flushing.

Does anyone see a problem other than maybe just a stiff motor that needs a rinse of alky on the next startup?

 

[moparbarn]

probably good for week to week, but the castor will gum up over long storage. btw, the marvel air tool oil does not contain wintergreen oil. took some serious digging on the web to find this out. the bottle doesn't give squat for info except "petroleum distillates" &" a compound known to cause cancer in ca.". guess whatever the compound is, will be ok in other states ?