Water jacket leaks?

[Terry Keeley]

In the past I put set screws at the bottom of the holes to seal them up but then you can only use 5/8" screws instead of 3/4", not the best.

Lately I've been injecting some RTV down in the hole then assembling, checking, adding some more to leaks etc.

Anyone have a better way to do this? Or am I the only one that thinks of this chit?

They actually leak quite a bit if you check...

 

[Blair Warren]

Or am I the only one that thinks of this chit?

Most likely...

Interesting, pressure testing the WC head for leaks?

 

[Terry Keeley]

Most likely...

Interesting, pressure testing the WC head for leaks?

Yup, put it in alcohol or some other solvent and try it. They leak like a sieve where the head bolts exit.

Wish they'd fix this and make them blind holes...

 

[gilbert galli]

the tiger king evo engine has aluminum washers for head bolts exit and the red fiber gaskets on the water nipples


https://www.saarberg-modelbouw.nl/product/gasket-for-water-cooled-cover-10pcs/https://www.saarberg-modelbouw.nl/product/gasket-for-brass-water-nipples-8pcs/

 

[Blair Warren]

Wish they'd fix this and make them blind holes...

That would be the best way for sure..

Very tough (impossible?) to get all the leaks stopped.

Probably not worth chasing your tail. Maybe it is?

Might be more interesting to set the motor up on that awesome test/break-in stand that you made, and see how bad the leaks are by running water through the head with the engine running and up to temp.

Slow motion video?

What makes testing difficult...the faster your boat goes, the higher the pressure in the water lines and cooling head because of the fixed diameter of the exit opening on the head. How do you regulate that pressure and maintain enough water flow to cool the engine properly and keep the leaks from occurring?

You could also try modifying one of the cases by fabricating and installing your own blind holes. Something Orval would do.

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Since this is only an issue when running this engine outside of a boat, can you machine thin lower jacket to slip over the two or three fins where the holes are?
Or perhaps find the correct o-ring that can be pressed in gap between adjacent fins to seal it up? Or fill the valley in the fins with JB weld and chase the threads with a tap. Your engine may not look pretty, but at least it won't leak on your dyno.

 

[Mike Betke]

We’ve been putting orings in the grooves for years for this. A little RTV at the bottom doesn’t hurt either.

 

[Tom Foley]

I put
Tef-Gel on the screw threads to keep them from ever binding , thinking it probably helps this situation as well . Will have to check now !

 

[Terry Keeley]

Since this is only an issue when running this engine outside of a boat, can you machine thin lower jacket to slip over the two or three fins where the holes are?
Or perhaps find the correct o-ring that can be pressed in gap between adjacent fins to seal it up? Or fill the valley in the fins with JB weld and chase the threads with a tap. Your engine may not look pretty, but at least it won't leak on your dyno.

Might be but I wonder if some of it could make it's way into the carb? I've had boats quit way back only to find a tiny drop of water on the plug.

We’ve been putting orings in the grooves for years for this. A little RTV at the bottom doesn’t hurt either.

That's a good idea! I'll give it a try.

 

[Charles Perdue]

Good mechanics know that on any bolt/screw that protrudes into a water jacket that teflon thread sealant must be used on the threads to prevent leaks.
This does two things, it seals around the bolt threads and also lubricates the threads. Lubrication also allows greater clamping force with the same bolt/screw torque.
Most bolt/screw torque specifications are for lubricated threads.

Using a good nickle based anti-seize/thread lubricant on threads in assembly, even when not going into a water jacket (blind holes), like head bolts on Picco engines, and you will never have a problem removing them.

Charles

 

[Terry Keeley]

Good mechanics know that on any bolt/screw that protrudes into a water jacket that teflon thread sealant must be used on the threads to prevent leaks.
This does two things, it seals around the bolt threads and also lubricates the threads. Lubrication also allows greater clamping force with the same bolt/screw torque.
Most bolt/screw torque specifications are for lubricated threads.

Using a good nickle based anti-seize/thread lubricant on threads in assembly, even when not going into a water jacket (blind holes), like head bolts on Picco engines, and you will never have a problem removing them.

Charles

Gonna try this, thanks:

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ca/en/product/thread-sealants/loctite_567.html