vacume pump

[steve wood]

i need to buy a vacume pump,that won't break the bank, to do cowls. how much cfm do i need and how many inches of whatever. i found some robinair models on ebay,would they work ok?

 

[153stars]

i need to buy a vacume pump,that won't break the bank, to do cowls. how much cfm do i need and how many inches of whatever. i found some robinair models on ebay,would they work ok?

I hope you get a qualified answer , when I was thinking of doing some cowls I googled vacuum forming found a forum-forums and tons of ideas, deals ect. some were using a small vacuum cleaner for fast pull down and then high vac pump pull down tight.

 

[Jim Caldwell]

Harbor Freight has a 2.5 CFM pump that pulls 22" to 24" of vacuum for about $80.00.

It a rotary vane pump that runs in an oil bath and emits a very fine oil mist while it runs.

I run it for 8 hours at a time on CF boat hulls.

You can also try joewoodworker.com for the Gast brand pumps (no oil mist)and other good info.

Continuous duty pumps are the simplest.

Jim

 

[Ray Sametz]

i need to buy a vacume pump,that won't break the bank, to do cowls. how much cfm do i need and how many inches of whatever. i found some robinair models on ebay,would they work ok?

PM, Charles Perdue. Has some slick ideas on used A/C pumps.

 

[SayMikey]

You need to talk to David Preusse he has a simple way and uses his wifes vacum along with a air compressor< exhaust port

 

[Terry Keeley]

Gast oilless rotary vane pump is what you want IMHO, 0523 is a popular model:

http://www.gastmfg.com/pdf/rotvane/23_series.pdf

Full price is about $600, got mine surplus years ago for $100, see them on Flee-Bay all the time.

You could prolly get away with something smaller if it's just for cowls...

 

[JKramer]

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/FJC-6905-p-AC-Pumps.html

I would suggest something like the pump above. Plenty big for the job and then use it for AC auto work and save three times that in labor on your first AC job.

 

[Mark Bullard]

i need to buy a vacume pump,that won't break the bank, to do cowls. how much cfm do i need and how many inches of whatever. i found some robinair models on ebay,would they work ok?

Fine you a old air compressor tank about 10 gal. Place a valve and piping between your vaccum table and the tank. Connect another pipe the the intake of you air compressor along with a vacuum gauge. Vent your aircompressor pressure side of tank open. Start aircompressor to start vaccum, when vaccum stop pulling on gauge you will be ready to pull a part by opening the valve.

 

[dwilfong]

Chris

This is what I use for AC work. It work real good. Like Mark said hook it up to a Small tank for the storage and you got it made. Just put a gage on the tank and suck it down when you drop in vacuum pressure.

http://cgi.ebay.com/...9QQcmdZViewItem

David

 

[JS_Racing]

I agree with Terry - we have the same pump - works great - remember these have to run for several hours while the epoxy cures so you want to get a good one.

Steve Pas

Gast oilless rotary vane pump is what you want IMHO, 0523 is a popular model:

http://www.gastmfg.com/pdf/rotvane/23_series.pdf

Full price is about $600, got mine surplus years ago for $100, see them on Flee-Bay all the time.

You could prolly get away with something smaller if it's just for cowls...

 

[tnrcboatracer]

If you use a tank with a pressure switch and contactor, the pump will cycle, as the flow rate is less than the bag leak rate. I posted pics of my setup a few months ago. Big enough to do 3 molds at 1 time.

 

[steve wood]

If you use a tank with a pressure switch and contactor, the pump will cycle, as the flow rate is less than the bag leak rate. I posted pics of my setup a few months ago. Big enough to do 3 molds at 1 time.

now were talking

 

[Terry Keeley]

For "production" I'd look at a male/female mold, much simpler and good results. Bagging works great but it's a chore... :unsure:

Hey, if that's Chris in your avitar he grew a little! :lol:

 

[steve wood]

For "production" I'd look at a male/female mold, much simpler and good results. Bagging works great but it's a chore... :unsure:

Hey, if that's Chris in your avitar he grew a little! :lol:

yeah,a little,the other one is his son,Hunter,he'll be at the pond soon!

anythings got to be better than hand lay up

 

[Terry Keeley]

For "production" I'd look at a male/female mold, much simpler and good results. Bagging works great but it's a chore... :unsure:

Hey, if that's Chris in your avitar he grew a little! :lol:

yeah,a little,the other one is his son,Hunter,he'll be at the pond soon!

anythings got to be better than hand lay up

Oh that is Chris & Hunter, thought it was you and Chris a long time ago...

Really, make a m/f mold, allow 0.008" per layer of 6oz CF, it'll be good both sides and if you watch how much resin you use about as good as bagging.

 

[Chris Wood]

Hey terry,

is there a certain reason you use the m/f molds? is it easier to use or more consistant?

chris

p.s. got little man a 20 mono he will giving you a run soon LOL!!

 

[Terry Keeley]

Hey terry,

is there a certain reason you use the m/f molds? is it easier to use or more consistant?

chris

p.s. got little man a 20 mono he will giving you a run soon LOL!!

I haven't, only bagging, but if I was gonna make a dozen of them that's how I'd do it.

Bagging works great but after you do a regular layup you're into another couple hours for the rest of it, with a m'f you do your layup then put the male mold in and squeeze the carbon just like bagging.

ps: maybe I'll make him an offer in a few years, I'm always lookin' for a new drivers... :lol: