Tunnel Question?

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Tim leyde

Well-Known Member
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May 25, 2009
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I was viewing some F1 tunnel races. Couldn't help to notice the transom is protruding out about 1' - 2' from the back of the sponsons. While on are R/C tunnels the transom is always recessed.

Has anyone tried the design of a full-size F1 hull?
 
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The progression and history of the tunnel hull is a facinating study. In the old days, 60' and 70's, the boats had lots of lift and long rocker bottom sponsons. The hydrodynamics and aerodynamics of the modern boats has changed all of the geometry. The boats are balanced different these days also because of the safety cell cockpits. In the old days the boats gulped lots of air and flew high while the engine trim was level or negative. Today they rely heavily on the power trim to "pry" the boats off of the water so they can be tucked under real quick to make super fast tight turns.

On the RC outboards the sweep of the rudder left and right is greatly exaggerated which is why you will hear discussions on pivot pin placement and....why you see a lot of inset transoms.

The length/width ratio as well as the sponson pad angle is different on the full scale boats. To answer your question, yes full size designs have been scaled down and what you end up with is a boat that needs power trim just like its big brother. And that leads us to another RC tunnel feature....stumble blocks.
 
Hi Mark, great post.

Interesting you brought up stumble blocks.

I was just about to post a topic asking people's thoughts on stumble blocks and their designs.

Tim happy to start another thread if you like bit I'm interested to hear what peoples experiences are with different types of blocks. Shapes, lengths, depths.

I have just run a boat with no blocks and when I put them on the difference was amazing in how much it pulled the nose down in a straight line.
 
Thanks, I do have a motor mount that I could connect a third channel on to make a power trim. However it would seem like a lot of work to drive.
 
Thanks, I do have a motor mount that I could connect a third channel on to make a power trim. However it would seem like a lot of work to drive.
It would require a lot of testing but on my 4pl you could set it to one of the switches and you would just push it and it would go to that location!!! Of course water conditions would play a major role in it. Would be fun to play with though!!!
 
We ran trims by using a 3rd channel set to toggle up or down to presets. Didn't add a lot of speed but helped break loose props to get on the pipe at times. Being the mount had to pivot it also wore with vibration. We went back to solid mounts as handling was affected when the motor rocked a little.

As for design and insetting transoms, I have found some setups work well setting the motor back a bit. Just a lot of trial and error to see what works.

Mic
 
Thanks, I do have a motor mount that I could connect a third channel on to make a power trim. However it would seem like a lot of work to drive.
It would require a lot of testing but on my 4pl you could set it to one of the switches and you would just push it and it would go to that location!!! Of course water conditions would play a major role in it. Would be fun to play with though!!!
Haven't used it in years, never used it just bout it. Wanna buy it Kev?
 
Thanks, I do have a motor mount that I could connect a third channel on to make a power trim. However it would seem like a lot of work to drive.
It would require a lot of testing but on my 4pl you could set it to one of the switches and you would just push it and it would go to that location!!! Of course water conditions would play a major role in it. Would be fun to play with though!!!
Haven't used it in years, never used it just bout it. Wanna buy it Kev?
Hmmm how much we talking? Would be fun to play with!! Send me some texts of it.
 
Good thing the 4pl is a 4 channel system!!!
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Just get to a race!
default_biggrin.png
 
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Back to the original question about protruding transoms on RC boats. The OSSI gas tunnel came with a transom set behind the sponson rear by almost two inches, and also has a butt load of negative thrust angle built into it. I am sure the designer did a copy of some full scale hull as you refer to. The design was really bad for RC use however, lead to hooking and spinouts even when you used an adjustable mount to eliminate most of the negative thrust. The full scale powerplants are much more compact than our RC lower units resulting in the prop being closer to the sponson rear in the full scale boats. Add the prop distance of a lawless or other gas lower unt and the thrust angle is way to far rearward, ergo pushing the *** end of the hull around the first time you overload the ability of the sponson to hold the water in a turn. BLUF, keep you transom design in a position that places your pivot pin close to the line across the rear ends of the sponsons. Most of us cut the extended transom off of our OSSIs and moved it forward.
 
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