tested new design

[anthony_marquart]

I got a new design in the water yesterday. This is the second time I ran this boat. First time went badly because I used 2 4-40 rods to support the turn fin spar.

This time I used a CF tube that went through the hull, fin and spar, to support the spar and the fin. I think this is really a good deal.

The load of the turn fin is directed straight through the hull to the approx CG of the boat. No twisting of the hull in the turns.

Though the boat is far from reaching it's potential I can see how well it's going to handle.

THe design has real small sponsons and far forward boom tubes, a CF turn fin spar about 11in long, a CF tube through the hull to secure the spar and fin...

I think this might turn even a bit better than my JAE style boat.

Thoughts?

 

[Buckshot]

 

[Kevin Krogness]

Love it!!!!

 

[anthony_marquart]

that is too funny!!! I'll take a pic at lunch..

 

[anthony_marquart]

Heres pic I took real quick at lunch. DOesn't look so unusual to me anymore.

 

[misshydro]

Heres pic I took real quick at lunch. DOesn't look so unusual to me anymore.

Now that looks like a JAP design rigger!! Me likey it..lol!!

 

[anthony_marquart]

Really what it is,..

JAE based center sponson, sponson width and spacing,. totally different tub construction technique, very small sponsons at about 3.5 AOA, no dihedral on the sponson bottom, all sponsons shingled, Divinacell cored sponsons... different turn fin support method,

I like the JAP boats too,.. but I don't know anyhing about them other than the pics I've seen here.

Heres pic I took real quick at lunch. DOesn't look so unusual to me anymore.

Now that looks like a JAP design rigger!! Me likey it..lol!!

 

[Hammerhead]

Does it stay cool enough with the cowl on it? With mine, it is too cool with water cooling and the cowl, but to hot with out water cooling. I need to play with restricting the water flow if I'm going to race with a cowl. Hopefully I can figure it out before my next heat race. Last Saturday was the first time I raced in a full 6 boat heat of .12s it is just nuts! Almost everyone at least once couldn't complete a heat because they got into someones rooster, including me. I think running with a cowl is almost a necessity in this class. Or at least have some provision for keeping water out of the carb. If you are restricting water flow, how are you doing it? I was thinking about using a collar with a set screw.

Marty

 

[anthony_marquart]

I put a set screw in the water outlet of the head. Then a drilled a 0.050 hole in the top of the head right at the outlet. Seems to work real well. I actually haven't run this with the cowl on yet. I had a problem with over cooling with this motor. Restricted the water and seems to bur more fuel.

I bet the sound of 6 .12 riggers running it awesome!!!!!

Does it stay cool enough with the cowl on it? With mine, it is too cool with water cooling and the cowl, but to hot with out water cooling. I need to play with restricting the water flow if I'm going to race with a cowl. Hopefully I can figure it out before my next heat race. Last Saturday was the first time I raced in a full 6 boat heat of .12s it is just nuts! Almost everyone at least once couldn't complete a heat because they got into someones rooster, including me. I think running with a cowl is almost a necessity in this class. Or at least have some provision for keeping water out of the carb. If you are restricting water flow, how are you doing it? I was thinking about using a collar with a set screw.

Marty

 

[Hammerhead]

If my memory serves me correctly, Glenn may have mentioned that method to me when I ordered my engine.

 

[Hammerhead]

BTW, What are you using for your turn fin spar?

Marty

 

[LarryConrad]

I put a set screw in the water outlet of the head. Then a drilled a 0.050 hole in the top of the head right at the outlet. Seems to work real well. I actually haven't run this with the cowl on yet. I had a problem with over cooling with this motor. Restricted the water and seems to bur more fuel.

I bet the sound of 6 .12 riggers running it awesome!!!!!

Does it stay cool enough with the cowl on it? With mine, it is too cool with water cooling and the cowl, but to hot with out water cooling. I need to play with restricting the water flow if I'm going to race with a cowl. Hopefully I can figure it out before my next heat race. Last Saturday was the first time I raced in a full 6 boat heat of .12s it is just nuts! Almost everyone at least once couldn't complete a heat because they got into someones rooster, including me. I think running with a cowl is almost a necessity in this class. Or at least have some provision for keeping water out of the carb. If you are restricting water flow, how are you doing it? I was thinking about using a collar with a set screw.

Marty

Anthony,

Bring your boat up to the Twin Cities and you can hear what 8 .12's sound like in a heat.

 

[Mitch Graber]

This is a good way to restrict waterflow to get the heat up on the motors.First,pull the waterline off

at the motor,check the flow with your flow meter backwards thru the rudder.Now you know what it was flowing

originally.Then,drill just the right size hole in the back of the rudder at the top to thread a small

sheet metal screw into the water passage hole in the rudder.Put some blue loctite on it so it won't fall

out, and you can change it without it backing out.start screwing it in at the test pond until you find the sweet

spot where you have the motor up to the temp you want.Check the flow and record it,then get the temp.of the

water you are running in and record that also.After a few months of running at different lakes with different

water temps you will have a good baseline to know what to flow it at when you get to a new race lake.you will start

to see a pattern also of how much the fuel flow goes up as the water flow goes down.It worked great with the

Nova Rossi motors 10-15 years ago when I started doing it.

 

[anthony_marquart]

It's a CF plank from Mcmaster carr

BTW, What are you using for your turn fin spar?

Marty

 

[Hammerhead]

It's a CF plank from Mcmaster carr

BTW, What are you using for your turn fin spar?

Marty

Looking good Anthony! I like the tub's airfoil like profile.

Marty

 

[brett english]

This is a good way to restrict waterflow to get the heat up on the motors.First,pull the waterline off

at the motor,check the flow with your flow meter backwards thru the rudder.Now you know what it was flowing

originally.Then,drill just the right size hole in the back of the rudder at the top to thread a small

sheet metal screw into the water passage hole in the rudder.Put some blue loctite on it so it won't fall

out, and you can change it without it backing out.start screwing it in at the test pond until you find the sweet

spot where you have the motor up to the temp you want.Check the flow and record it,then get the temp.of the

water you are running in and record that also.After a few months of running at different lakes with different

water temps you will have a good baseline to know what to flow it at when you get to a new race lake.you will start

to see a pattern also of how much the fuel flow goes up as the water flow goes down.It worked great with the

Nova Rossi motors 10-15 years ago when I started doing it.

mitch i sent u a PM..please reply

 

[Robert Mabe]

I would use a OS fuel needle valve on the water line between the pick up and the engne inlet. I would run my boat and set the needle to the correct heat I needed on the engine. Then from that point on I would only have to make maybe 1/4 turns on the needle valve to get it right at difference. I would make pratic runs and check the engine temp, and make adjustment as needed.