Sport 21 hull built from g10

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namba276

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2003
Messages
2,176
Guys, Iv'e been thinking... :blink: I might build one of my new hulls out of g10 fibre panels. You would not have to seal it, strong and lite. hummm <_<
 
You know... I'm seriously thinking about doing it. The frame work would work, all the bulkheads, engine well, sponson insides are slip jointed together. little thin ca and it one piece now. Don't know about the skins. I quess if I have the right glue it should work. found a site with sheets of various thicknesses. 1/8" 1/16" and 1/32" You would not have to seal the inside, strong as hell and lite.

Bob
 
Here's the link to the thread. http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showtopic=24410"" target="_blank">Topic In post 9 he talks about using special adhesives to bond the stuff. You mentioned using CA which I would think you would be able to use, but I thought I'd mention this.

Rich
 
Here's the link to the thread. http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showtopic=24410"" target="_blank">Topic</a> In post 9 he talks about using special adhesives to bond the stuff. You mentioned using CA which I would think you would be able to use, but I thought I'd mention this.
Rich
Oh well, bad link. Its on the third page in the Sport and Scale Hydro forum under Sponson Canoe Availability.
 
Guys G10 is Compression Molded Epoxy Impregnated glass. Probably 10 Times stronger than the production glass layups. Easy to cut, glue and paint with extremely uniform finish.

I use Kmac(Michigan Co.) as my G10 supplier. My next project will be skinning a (Mutt II canoed) Sport 40 center section with G10

<a href="http://k-mac-plastics.net/polycarbonate-products.htm" target="_blank">http://k-mac-plastics.net/polycarbonate-products.htm</a>

Tips:

Only use CA for tacking G10.

Use thickin'd resin for bonding or Permatex Plastic Weld #84115 or #84315, stuff stinks but its works excellent! Sand surfaces prior to bonding(Allow 24 hrs for full cure)

<a href="http://www.shop.undermycar.com/product.sc?...;productId=1005" target="_blank">http://www.shop.undermycar.com/product.sc?...;productId=1005</a>

<a href="http://www.shop.undermycar.com/product.sc?...;productId=1004" target="_blank">http://www.shop.undermycar.com/product.sc?...;productId=1004</a>

G10 won't save much weight compared to plywood contruction its not light like carbon fiber(CF). Good thing is G10 is its inexpensive compared to CF, available in large sheets, and and a variety of gauges.

G10 can handle heat, lasts forever won't warp of waterlog like wood.

Have at it! ;)
 
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When you use G10 instead of ply do you get similar thicknesses, or can you go thinner? Does the thin stuff bend well enough to use on sponson bottoms? How about other curved areas where plywood might need to be wet before bending?
 
Chuck i would go half or slightly less thickness of normal ply when using G10. I used .046 G10 to Skin an entire 1/8th scale no problems bending around contours but no compound bends. Use .020 on for uprights & wings.

When you use G10 instead of ply do you get similar thicknesses, or can you go thinner? Does the thin stuff bend well enough to use on sponson bottoms? How about other curved areas where plywood might need to be wet before bending?
 
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Thanks, that helps. The boat I'm actually thinking about this for is a tunnel. I'm looking for creative ideas on how to make it different from the hundreds of other tunnels out there.

Chuck i would go half or slightly less thickness of normal ply when using G10. I used .046 G10 to Skin an entire 1/8th scale no problems bending around contours but no compound bends. Use .020 on for uprights & wings.
When you use G10 instead of ply do you get similar thicknesses, or can you go thinner? Does the thin stuff bend well enough to use on sponson bottoms? How about other curved areas where plywood might need to be wet before bending?
 

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