Michael Costanzo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2009
- Messages
- 1,953
is there a certain point were the sponsons are set too wide?
funny andy that you posted.the question is about one of your .45 mongoose's. i have run the .80 goose with a .91 and felt it needed to be wider and a larger turnfin.so i would like to do the same with the .45 size hull. i fabbed up a little larger turnfin in 7075-6 and was going to add some width to make it more stable.Yes but every boat is different, so the best width is achieved by experiment.
Paul.Andy, have you ever experimented with asymmetric sponson spacing or design? I know in land based oval racing cars have some serious asymmetry to allow faster lap times.
Michael, The Goose is small by todays standards so yes the wider spacing together with the bigger fin will help.funny andy that you posted.the question is about one of your .45 mongoose's. i have run the .80 goose with a .91 and felt it needed to be wider and a larger turnfin.so i would like to do the same with the .45 size hull. i fabbed up a little larger turnfin in 7075-6 and was going to add some width to make it more stable.Yes but every boat is different, so the best width is achieved by experiment.
this is the next question,how wide from stock on each side? don't want to get carried away and go too wide.i always felt if it gets too wide it will want to teeter toter from side to side and the inertia will make it do funny things. PS,had lots of fun with the .80 boat.it was a blast to drive,fast and turned really well.thanks.Paul.Andy, have you ever experimented with asymmetric sponson spacing or design? I know in land based oval racing cars have some serious asymmetry to allow faster lap times.
Most of my designs, of which the first was Mongoose, used asymmetric sponson spacing and off set drive line. The Eagle SG/SGX was the first to use symmetrical sponson spacing and a centered drive line. But the sponsons themselves are not symmetrical. They are different widths and different chine angles. This allows the boat to fly the sponsons down the straight occasionally without getting out of shape and still have good cornering characteristics.
Michael, The Goose is small by todays standards so yes the wider spacing together with the bigger fin will help.funny andy that you posted.the question is about one of your .45 mongoose's. i have run the .80 goose with a .91 and felt it needed to be wider and a larger turnfin.so i would like to do the same with the .45 size hull. i fabbed up a little larger turnfin in 7075-6 and was going to add some width to make it more stable.Yes but every boat is different, so the best width is achieved by experiment.
Original 1985 Mongoose .21. Offset drive line, asymmetric sponson spacing, CG mounted tank location. The boat was a big success.
I would say 1/2" each side. The larger fin will be the biggest benefit.this is the next question,how wide from stock on each side? don't want to get carried away and go too wide.i always felt if it gets too wide it will want to teeter toter from side to side and the inertia will make it do funny things. PS,had lots of fun with the .80 boat.it was a blast to drive,fast and turned really well.thanks.Paul.Andy, have you ever experimented with asymmetric sponson spacing or design? I know in land based oval racing cars have some serious asymmetry to allow faster lap times.
Most of my designs, of which the first was Mongoose, used asymmetric sponson spacing and off set drive line. The Eagle SG/SGX was the first to use symmetrical sponson spacing and a centered drive line. But the sponsons themselves are not symmetrical. They are different widths and different chine angles. This allows the boat to fly the sponsons down the straight occasionally without getting out of shape and still have good cornering characteristics.
Michael, The Goose is small by todays standards so yes the wider spacing together with the bigger fin will help.funny andy that you posted.the question is about one of your .45 mongoose's. i have run the .80 goose with a .91 and felt it needed to be wider and a larger turnfin.so i would like to do the same with the .45 size hull. i fabbed up a little larger turnfin in 7075-6 and was going to add some width to make it more stable.Yes but every boat is different, so the best width is achieved by experiment.
Original 1985 Mongoose .21. Offset drive line, asymmetric sponson spacing, CG mounted tank location. The boat was a big success.
The Mongoose was a great boat. Won lots of major races and set several records. It was a bit heavy, even for it's day. I often think of building a new lightweight modern version of the Mongoose.Alan a buddy of mine back in 1989 if I recall the year at the local boat club
had the Mongoose .80 was a hit with all the guys we all drooled at the finished
design and bare wood epoxy finish scheme.
I ended up scratch building a .20 size rigger with very similar lines it scooted along
great with a aero tuned pipe. I still can remember the moment it climbed up on top
of the water after about a half a lap cleared it's throat and staged on the pipe...wham O
off it went zipping along as my heart rate jumped and stayed that way well after that 1st run.
my .45 goose is 6.35 lbs rtr. andy, you got any .45 goose cowls laying around??I would say 1/2" each side. The larger fin will be the biggest benefit.this is the next question,how wide from stock on each side? don't want to get carried away and go too wide.i always felt if it gets too wide it will want to teeter toter from side to side and the inertia will make it do funny things. PS,had lots of fun with the .80 boat.it was a blast to drive,fast and turned really well.thanks.Paul.Andy, have you ever experimented with asymmetric sponson spacing or design? I know in land based oval racing cars have some serious asymmetry to allow faster lap times.
Most of my designs, of which the first was Mongoose, used asymmetric sponson spacing and off set drive line. The Eagle SG/SGX was the first to use symmetrical sponson spacing and a centered drive line. But the sponsons themselves are not symmetrical. They are different widths and different chine angles. This allows the boat to fly the sponsons down the straight occasionally without getting out of shape and still have good cornering characteristics.
Michael, The Goose is small by todays standards so yes the wider spacing together with the bigger fin will help.funny andy that you posted.the question is about one of your .45 mongoose's. i have run the .80 goose with a .91 and felt it needed to be wider and a larger turnfin.so i would like to do the same with the .45 size hull. i fabbed up a little larger turnfin in 7075-6 and was going to add some width to make it more stable.Yes but every boat is different, so the best width is achieved by experiment.
Original 1985 Mongoose .21. Offset drive line, asymmetric sponson spacing, CG mounted tank location. The boat was a big success.
The Mongoose was a great boat. Won lots of major races and set several records. It was a bit heavy, even for it's day. I often think of building a new lightweight modern version of the Mongoose.Alan a buddy of mine back in 1989 if I recall the year at the local boat club
had the Mongoose .80 was a hit with all the guys we all drooled at the finished
design and bare wood epoxy finish scheme.
I ended up scratch building a .20 size rigger with very similar lines it scooted along
great with a aero tuned pipe. I still can remember the moment it climbed up on top
of the water after about a half a lap cleared it's throat and staged on the pipe...wham O
off it went zipping along as my heart rate jumped and stayed that way well after that 1st run.
hi andy,i measured the ID of the opening and it is 14-12" x 4-1/4". i appreciate the offer to make a new plug, but i do not want you to take time out of your BUSY schedule just to make 1 cowl for me.mike.I have one cowl mounted on a boat. I am not sure if it is a 45 or 67. How long is your 45 cowl? Maybe we could make a plug. I don't know what happened to the Mongoose molds.
Michael,hi andy,i measured the ID of the opening and it is 14-12" x 4-1/4". i appreciate the offer to make a new plug, but i do not want you to take time out of your BUSY schedule just to make 1 cowl for me.mike.I have one cowl mounted on a boat. I am not sure if it is a 45 or 67. How long is your 45 cowl? Maybe we could make a plug. I don't know what happened to the Mongoose molds.
andy,when you say the canopy,you are looking for the shaped part of the hatch without the base?? if so,i cannot tell you i only have the 80 hatch on hand. when i got the .45 hull it had no hatch.going to have to ask around. there was i guy either on here or nitro boats(facebook) that had one but i cannot recall who...Michael,hi andy,i measured the ID of the opening and it is 14-12" x 4-1/4". i appreciate the offer to make a new plug, but i do not want you to take time out of your BUSY schedule just to make 1 cowl for me.mike.I have one cowl mounted on a boat. I am not sure if it is a 45 or 67. How long is your 45 cowl? Maybe we could make a plug. I don't know what happened to the Mongoose molds.
I need to know the width and length of the canopy itself. I've been wanting to make new Mongoose style molds anyway. I am fairly sure what I have is the .45. Just want to verify. It is mounted on a 67 boat that was running a 45. That's why I am not 100% sure which it is.
Yes, he was on Facebook. Also Wayne responded to your FB post. He made molds off all of the Mongoose cowls about 30 years ago. Maybe he will make one?andy,when you say the canopy,you are looking for the shaped part of the hatch without the base?? if so,i cannot tell you i only have the 80 hatch on hand. when i got the .45 hull it had no hatch.going to have to ask around. there was i guy either on here or nitro boats(facebook) that had one but i cannot recall who...Michael,hi andy,i measured the ID of the opening and it is 14-12" x 4-1/4". i appreciate the offer to make a new plug, but i do not want you to take time out of your BUSY schedule just to make 1 cowl for me.mike.I have one cowl mounted on a boat. I am not sure if it is a 45 or 67. How long is your 45 cowl? Maybe we could make a plug. I don't know what happened to the Mongoose molds.
I need to know the width and length of the canopy itself. I've been wanting to make new Mongoose style molds anyway. I am fairly sure what I have is the .45. Just want to verify. It is mounted on a 67 boat that was running a 45. That's why I am not 100% sure which it is.
hi andy,left a mesage with mike ouelette on facebook. he has just the top part of the hatch and says he is willing to send it to your shop ao you can make a plug for yourself and the send it back to him. i told him i will pay the freight both ways.not looking to spend a million dollars( have been out of work since last july with surgurey's on my arm) to build a hatch but i thought it would benifit both of us and revive and very cool looking boat. i will keep you posted on what he says.thanks again for all the help,mike.Yes, he was on Facebook. Also Wayne responded to your FB post. He made molds off all of the Mongoose cowls about 30 years ago. Maybe he will make one?andy,when you say the canopy,you are looking for the shaped part of the hatch without the base?? if so,i cannot tell you i only have the 80 hatch on hand. when i got the .45 hull it had no hatch.going to have to ask around. there was i guy either on here or nitro boats(facebook) that had one but i cannot recall who...Michael,hi andy,i measured the ID of the opening and it is 14-12" x 4-1/4". i appreciate the offer to make a new plug, but i do not want you to take time out of your BUSY schedule just to make 1 cowl for me.mike.I have one cowl mounted on a boat. I am not sure if it is a 45 or 67. How long is your 45 cowl? Maybe we could make a plug. I don't know what happened to the Mongoose molds.
I need to know the width and length of the canopy itself. I've been wanting to make new Mongoose style molds anyway. I am fairly sure what I have is the .45. Just want to verify. It is mounted on a 67 boat that was running a 45. That's why I am not 100% sure which it is.
that sounds great andy.i will keep you updated when i get the ball rolling.thanks,mike.That would be great Mike. We will be happy to build a new mold off it. And we will send you the first finished part out of the mold.
Thanks, Andy
Enter your email address to join: