She's Almost Ready

[JUSTINROGERS]

Just have to finish up the cowling.

Winter Nitro Championships Here I Come!!!!

 

[Danny King]

Cool! What size is it?

 

[JUSTINROGERS]

20

 

[Joey Jones]

That looks good Justin! I like the color!

-Joey

 

[JUSTINROGERS]

Thanks Joey. I call it zombie green. My tunnel and gas boat are the same

 

[JUSTINROGERS]

Well the gas boat is a little different. Its custom gelcoat and the rigger and tunnel are paint

 

[Joey Jones]

I'm a huge fan of Yellow/Green. The brighter the better! Well done!

-Joey

 

[SayMikey]

SGX cowl?

 

[JUSTINROGERS]

Yes its an SGX cowl.

Now for the fun part. Cleaning up lol

 

[Rick Reisinger]

WAS The top of the sponson's pink when you got it ??

She was built by John Cambrel , It is straight + strong .....

Rick R

 

[JUSTINROGERS]

Yes sir

 

[Charles Perdue]

Just a hint...anything within 1/2 inch of the inlet of our carbs will effect the performance. Especially right in front of the carb. I am not saying that it will not work, I am just saying that it will not work as well.

Charles

 

[JUSTINROGERS]

Charles are you referring to the cowl or the tank?

 

[Charles Perdue]

Charles are you referring to the cowl or the tank?

The cowl, if you could slide it forward some, away from the carb bell, it would help a lot......

 

[JUSTINROGERS]

Thanks for the help sir. I will work on it.

 

[Charles Perdue]

Thanks for the help sir. I will work on it.

The boat looks great......

 

[JUSTINROGERS]

Thanks. In a couple of weeks will be the test. It should be fun

 

[Charles Perdue]

One other suggestion if I may.

Open some adequate air inlets in the cowl on each side of the carb. Just far enough away from the carb bell to allow plenty of fresh air to the engine without letting any water to the carb. Any time that you have a larger area open at the rear of the cowl, around the pipe, than the inlet area, when the boat is traveling at speed, the airflow going past the rear opening causes a pressure drop inside of the cowl. This is unless you have enough air coming into the front inlets to not only furnish the air for the running engine (this is a lot of air) but include enough to compensate for the air being drawn out of the rear of the cowl. When more air is drawn out the rear of the cowl than is entering the front, this lowers the air density for the engine. With the lower air pressure under the cowl relevant to the outside air, the engine performance drops similar to the effect of having lower air density on a hot humid day.

If you are interested, I can post a drawing that can help you. I have a simple method of putting efficient air inlets in the cowling without them causing much aero drag.

And Mr. Justin,I am not trying to do anything but help you have a consistent running boat.

Charles

 

[JUSTINROGERS]

Charles that would be great if you could post a pic of the openings. Im all for suggestions and help. Its much appreciated. The industry didn't get where is today from everybody hiding all their secrets and input.

Thanks again Charles

 

[Charles Perdue]

Charles that would be great if you could post a pic of the openings. Im all for suggestions and help. Its much appreciated. The industry didn't get where is today from everybody hiding all their secrets and input.

Thanks again Charles

OK, these are a few of my cowls that I have installed the simple front vents that I use.

To make them, I tape over the carbon fiber surface with masking tape to help prevent splinters and CF dust, then I lay out the vents with a marker, usually on a surface area that is rising, getting higher or wider from the center of the airflow over the boat (due to the increased pressure, these vents flow more air for the same given open area, if you want to put the intake vents on the flat sides of the cowl then just make the opening area a little larger) by marking two lines parallel to each other and a line connecting those toward the rear of the cowl. Cut along these lines, I use a Dremel with a common abrasive cut-off wheel, I then cut the side wedges for the vents from 1/16 plywood using scissors. Gently press down the rear of the opening and glue the ply sides into place with CA. It is important to keep the floor of the vents bent in a gradual arc. This allows the air to follow this contour into the vent openings like a NACA Duct. I seal the ply with the CA and when I am finishing the boat, I cover this with epoxy or whatever.

To test your new ducts use a water hose to flow the water over the cowl. You can then see how the water/air follows the contour right into the vents.

Charles