sealing wood with primer alone

[Lennard Cuenco]

quick question...

those of you with wood hulls that were sealed with primer (without epoxy), how did this work for you? would you seal it with epoxy before primer if you did it again?

this is a scale boat, and I believe those sealing wood with primer were running riggers?

 

[u60]

I would suggest sealing with epoxy first. This way you get a good seal. Brush it on and then use a plastic scraper to scrape off any excess. Let cure. Then you can scuff and prime.

 

[Glenn 787]

My last wood build was my Zippkit Gas rigger. Coated with epoxy, wiped it down (went through a lot of paper towels) and sanded. Repeated a second time then cleared.

 

[SayMikey]

I like Mas finish epozy medium for sealing. It sands like butter

 

[Chilli]

I use this stuff on all my wood boats. First coat soaks right into the wood. Subsequent coats will fill in the wood grain for those that want a clear finish. Mixes 1:1. No scraping. Minimal sanding. Brushes on and is the viscosity of diesel fuel. I don't know anyone else that uses this stuff, but I like it.

http://www.rotdoctor...ducts/cpes.html

 

[Dasboatman]

Hey Len,

I'm with Fred, Glenn and Mikey - seal with epoxy first, wiping off excess. I'm using West Systems, and PPG two part epoxy primer DP48LF with DP401LF Hardener. This stuff is heavy as Hades, but very compatable with West's and the PPG DCC 2 part I was using for color. I am no longer willing to pay the price for Omni DCC, so I'm going with the SHOPLINE PPG product next. I just bought some, haven't used it yet, but have other Scale boater Buds that have.

The new 8255 hull is now all white aftr the process above.Will get the red, graphics, and Clear coat on after I return.

Get some white on that puppy, and get it into the water so you can work it out before final paint. I understand Ray has now bought a Bull Whip??? Har, Ha !!!

I'll be South of you in Lakeside, CA - hopefully by Saturday the 14th for a few weeks. I need to instruct our 4 years old Granderson on acceptable levels of performance in preparation for his Pirate Motif Birthday Party. Old Mustang Submarine riders are indeed Qualified to Instruct. Har, Har !!! Argh, Matey !!!!!!

CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[Chris Thomas]

Hey Das, shot some of the PPG shop line stuff last summer. Can't really tell the diff from the expensive version... love the way it lays down with no sags. Great stuff but like somebody said its heavy, but no reactions with the west systems brand. All my stuff will be seeing the shop line stuff.

 

[Lennard Cuenco]

thx for the help guys..ill seal it with west systems prior to paint

i did notice a previous "wood sealing" thread that suggested skipping epoxy and using primer to seal (to save weight)...I think don ferrette was doing a scale? and i wanted to find out how it worked out for those ppl who did this...

thx again

bob...what changes are you making that require not shooting final paint? i hate painting and it sounds like your suggesting painting twice...please explain before i add another month to my build...lol

 

[Dasboatman]

Hey Lennard,

I'm suggesting painting it all white, test it, make any changes you might have to make on a new, untried hull, and once worked out - then put white over any changes, and only then put the color, graphics on, and Clear coat on the hull.

I have tried to make changes to completely painted Scale hulls a few times over the years and they simply looked patched from that point on. We have run new development hulls simply painted all white through the band saw when the hull didn't run as we wanted. I'm just suggesting - ensure the hull is ready to race, before you you expend the time & money to add color/graphics, etc.

My buddy has started using Interlux Epoxy PrimeKote from www.yachtpaint.com . It's a 3:1 mix - quart with hardener is about $47.00. Rick is much more picky with his paint jobs than am I. I go for everything sealed and durable - his always look better than mine because he really works at it.

Hey Chris,

I made the mistake of odereing Concept DCC back in October, having the color mixed before I double checked the price that day. I had checked the price about a month earlier. Once mixed, I had to buy it. $92.50 for a pint of PPG DCC 78182-SC and the same for a pint of 82526-SC plus $39.60 for 8oz. of DCX-61 High Solids Hardener for a Grand total of $243.13 rocked me back on my heels pretty darn good.

I bought SHOPLINE JAUA/pint 906562 medium Blue for $19.75 a pint, 8 oz. of medium top coat hardener for $16.90 and a gallon of reducer JR506 for $26.55 I believe the SHOPLINE used to be called OMNI AE.

Glad to hear you have experience with it and it's positive. I plan on using it for the forseeable future. I sure the Sam Hill won't buy the DCC product again.

I went to PPG paint in Florida 1996. The first I tried was their base coat single part paint - I bought a quart of yellow, and a quart of blue, and shot it on a Sport 40 development hull. Applied Graphics and shot a PPG DCU 2002 Clear coat over the whole thing. It seemed like every time I got a nick in the clear coat, fuel/oil/water would get down to the base coat product and cause what looked like a raised spider web like cracking. That was enough for me. Jack and I "**** canned" the base coat product and went to the Concept DCC two part product. CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[Glenn 787]

We have run new development hulls simply painted all white through the band saw when the hull didn't run as we wanted.

Hmmm, Len better buy a rtr hull

 

[Lennard Cuenco]

rofl Glenn...tru dat!

bob, i completely understand your explanation..thx for the tip

 

[anthony_marquart]

I use this stuff on all my wood boats. First coat soaks right into the wood. Subsequent coats will fill in the wood grain for those that want a clear finish. Mixes 1:1. No scraping. Minimal sanding. Brushes on and is the viscosity of diesel fuel. I don't know anyone else that uses this stuff, but I like it.

http://www.rotdoctor...ducts/cpes.html

This is interesting,. is this nitro proof? man do I like the idea of sealing a boat with something that has the viscosity of paint!!!

 

[Dasboatman]

Hey Len,

I figured you would understand my Bull Dozer subtlety.

When I first moved here, I met a boater that was just finishing an '84 Squire Shop from Newton plans. He had done a beautiful job on it, well constructed a set up. Sometime later we arranged to meet at the Hawg Stop to run it for the first time.

To shorten the story:

• It would not launch and get up on plane.
  
• Changes were made to the sponsons to allow it to get up on top of the water. See attached pic of sponson changes.
  
• Once on top, it flew like a bird, because of a very steep angle in the ram wing was packing too much air under the hull. See attached pic of air dam to help eliminate some of the lift.
  

He was not the first boater I had seen build a Scale boat that turned out to be not race capable. I told him that we had met about 6 months too late. Had we met before he started his build, I could have helped him make changes to the Newton plan that would have produced a boat that would have at least been competitive. As it turned out, he had an absolutely beautiful "Hangar Queen", which he ended up selling in disgust.

I always felt that the hobby lost a darn good modeler and yet another Scale boater. This one was too pretty to run through a band saw.

We only usually get one chance to make a good impression. He is currently doing Quarter Scale airplanes, and falling out of perfectly good aircraft to try the parachute option for entertainment. I miss him. CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[Lennard Cuenco]

lol bob..

thats the boat sheeted with 1/8" ply in the afterplane, had a ton of paint and 1/8" doublers everywhere..etc...

i think the problem may have been deeper than tunnel dimensions and running surfaces...did you ever get it to run ok?

more later,

Len

 

[Terry Keeley]

I haven't sealed wood with epoxy for 20 years, it only adds a lot of weight and very little (if any) strength.

I shoot the first coat of primer on fairly heavy and sand it completely off, that way it only fills the grain. Shoot a second coat and sand lightly with 400 and you're ready for paint.

 

[Hydro Junkie]

Hey Len,

I figured you would understand my Bull Dozer subtlety.

When I first moved here, I met a boater that was just finishing an '84 Squire Shop from Newton plans. He had done a beautiful job on it, well constructed a set up. Sometime later we arranged to meet at the Hawg Stop to run it for the first time.

To shorten the story:

• It would not launch and get up on plane.
  
• Changes were made to the sponsons to allow it to get up on top of the water. See attached pic of sponson changes.
  
• Once on top, it flew like a bird, because of a very steep angle in the ram wing was packing too much air under the hull. See attached pic of air dam to help eliminate some of the lift.
  

He was not the first boater I had seen build a Scale boat that turned out to be not race capable. I told him that we had met about 6 months too late. Had we met before he started his build, I could have helped him make changes to the Newton plan that would have produced a boat that would have at least been competitive. As it turned out, he had an absolutely beautiful "Hangar Queen", which he ended up selling in disgust.

I always felt that the hobby lost a darn good modeler and yet another Scale boater. This one was too pretty to run through a band saw.

We only usually get one chance to make a good impression. He is currently doing Quarter Scale airplanes, and falling out of perfectly good aircraft to try the parachute option for entertainment. I miss him. CHEERS !!! Bob

You just confirmed my thoughts on changing the bottom on my 85 Executone build. I moved the break forward and lowered the bullnoses so it won't pack as much air. Now I just hope I changed it enough. Guess I'll find out in a few months if I guessed right :mellow:

 

[moparbarn]

SANDING SEALER!!! acts as primer & sealing agent in one. i've been using DEFT brand lacquer based (available at loew's) for a couple of years now. thin as water, dries quickly, sands like primer, is light & seals & fills the grain. 2 to 3 coats, sanded well works great . dries absolutely clear, for you guys that like wood grain - like me.

 

[HOTWATER]

I agree Robin...I like using sanding sealer too...does not add weight like epoxy...

-Kent