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I like the fin doc, good idea. curious how the back end cleaning up the strut works. if your really want to try something. i always wanted to take a small shock from a r/c car. mount it inside ( in the middle of the sponson on the back of the front sponsons ) and have it connect to the ride pad so you have adjustable continuous ride surface, you can change spring rate, oil etc... never ever made since to me that race cars have all this adjustability yet a hydroplane is nothing but a stiff board with adjustable wing and with water be a ever changing surface i just can't believe that this would not help....
on the sponson i would put the shock INSIDE the sponson and then monocote the top, or at least deck the section without the shock and try to keep the shock BELOW the top of the sponson for drag. key is to find a SMALL shock to keep the weight down and not terribly mess up the CG
would take a little work but i have always felt the reward was there, just never took the time to make them. try it and let me know how it works

example of what i am talking about ( the 50 mm shock is only a .025oz in weight )
https://www.amainhobbies.com/rc4wd-bilstein-sz-series-scale-shock-absorbers-90mm-rc4zd0075/p727232
 
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Good idea.
If you look the trailing edge is extend back. I would consider your shock with an adjustable trim tab where the extension is at.

I tend to make them long so if I need a longer after plane they can be trimmed off.

The ideas of the turn fin mods are not original with me. Gary Staus did the golf ball idea and the groves came from discussion with Jim Schaefer.

The groves are similar to a knife used to cut cheese to keep cheese from sticking to the knife.
I have used the grooves before and my F hydro ran straight and did not pull to the right.

BTW I fly cut the leading edge on the mill so the taper is long and gradual. Less of a wing effect.
You know I have been told and heard from many that I don’t know anything, and it maybe true, but I like trying new things. Helps with boredom. HA HA
 
Good idea.
If you look the trailing edge is extend back. I would consider your shock with an adjustable trim tab where the extension is at.

I tend to make them long so if I need a longer after plane they can be trimmed off.
Chris, back in Iowa this week.

Dr if you recognize the sandwich
The ideas of the turn fin mods are not original with me. Gary Staus did the golf ball idea and the groves came from discussion with Jim Schaefer.

The groves are similar to a knife used to cut cheese to keep cheese from sticking to the knife.
I have used the grooves before and my F hydro ran straight and did not pull to the right.

BTW I fly cut the leading edge on the mill so the taper is long and gradual. Less of a wing effect.
You know I have been told and heard from many that I don’t know anything, and it maybe true, but I like trying new things. Helps with boredom. HA HA
 

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Interesting mod in the turn fin. Do you perhaps have a better picture, never seen it before. Might try it myself someday.

I've seen shingle on the ride pads, but did anyone ever put golf ball patern under the ride pads to reduce drag?
 
Interesting mod in the turn fin. Do you perhaps have a better picture, never seen it before. Might try it myself someday.

I've seen shingle on the ride pads, but did anyone ever put golf ball patern under the ride pads to reduce drag?
I don’t know the answer to your question.
As you know with the size of the props, pitch and diameter, that are being ran on F hydro there is a great tendency to pull to the right.

So trying to do things to lessen other features of the boat to cause it to pull to the right makes sense to me, But remember I don’t know anything.HA HA!

Thanks for looking at the post.
 

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