P/T sport 40 and ops .45

[tmunn]

I now have the sport 40 with an OPS.45 and the engine seems To be running well now.

SO, the motor seems to be running fine, I converted from a square drive flex shaft by removing the cable from the ferrule and soldering a new one long enough to be inserted into the cinch style coupler on the used ops I purchased.I used the same stub shaft and left room on it for cable windup.

So far so good.

Here is where I need some comments/Help.

When I was running the boat with the bottom of the strut down aprox .1-1/8" below the bottom of the boat

she would rev up in the corners and speed up but then slow down on the straights.

I kept raising the strut to the point where there was very little change in the speed of the boat from the corners to the straights and although unfamiliar with the speeds of these boats she seemed to be going very fast and the engine response was very good and she sucked the tank almost dry.

The thing is I have the bottom of the strut up to only 5/8" from the bottom of the floor. which leaves most of one blade running above the bottom of the boat B)

There was no rooster tail and the water out the back of the boat was nice and flat, she throws a crazy high

wall of water in the corners from the rudder or turn fin I beleive ??

Is this setup fine or by having the prop/strut so high am I compesating for lack of power or incorect prop.

I am using the prop that came with the boat which is Octura X450/2 modified 5.29"of cup 49.07 mm

The boat has the rear radio box with a 14 oz plastic tank in the front,parobolic pipe at 10.5" from weld to plug,Virginia craftsman turn fin.

THanks

Terry

 

[Brian Schymik]

nothing sounds wrong here.

The boat should go at least 50 mph with that setup and maybe faster

I run a very shallow strut also .. no problem with that.

Have fun now

Brian

 

[Don Ferrette]

.........parobolic pipe at 10.5" from weld to plug.........

THanks

Terry

Has the baffle behind the stinger been drilled out to match the stinger i.d.??

 

[29tunnel]

It sounds like you are running the same set-up that i have. This boat will go like hell with the strut at 5/8". But look out if you hit some chop or a little wind. For heat racing i've found 3/4 to 7/8 works pretty good. These old OPS run well with the newer stuff and parts are fairly easy to get

 

[Tim Kish]

It sounds like you are running the same set-up that i have. This boat will go like hell with the strut at 5/8". But look out if you hit some chop or a little wind. For heat racing i've found 3/4 to 7/8 works pretty good. These old OPS run well with the newer stuff and parts are fairly easy to get

Don is right the OPS 45 will easily run with any engine on the market with a some work , good little engines.

It's just to bad that OPS will not update them to a one peice case and a bolt on carb , they would sell a

hell of a lot more if they did.

Tim K

 

[Dan_Cousin]

Good to hear.

Those little engines have always been good to me.

P.S.

give a 1455 a try. don't be afraid the cup the ears a little. Good luck.

 

[Brian Schymik]

Actually you will have to cup the ears to get it to launch well

Brian

 

[tmunn]

Thanks a lot guys sounds good I have some minor stuff to do and will be out testing again next week.

I have a few more questions and have numbered them for easier responses

Don,

I have the parobolic quiet pipe and just inside the removable piece at the rear of the pipe there is a baffle with several smaller holes.I assume this is part of the reason the pipe is quiet.

1)Are you suggesting to drill out the end of the baffle to match the ID of the very end or outlet of the pipe.

I have the pipe apart now because the 3 screws that hold the end or baffle of the pipe in place have backed out.

2)What would you guys suggest to use to hold the screws in place. will blue loctite stand the heat.

My pushrod going to the rudder now consist of 2 seperate fairly large pushrods that are threaded on each end and conneted together with a couple 3/16" wheel collars.

3)Is there a more better cleaner looking installation in place of the above

Thank a lot.

Terry

 

[Dan_Cousin]

Mine didn't have screws to hold the baffle on its all one piece and welede together. Are you sure you have a CMDI parabolic?

http://www.cmdracing.com/updated/tuned_pipes.htm

Maybe an early version had screws don't know.

When you look straight into the stinger you will see a baffle with a small 1/8" hole in it. This is the hole we enlarge. most guys drill it all the way to the size of the stinger ID. I have done this but hte pipe is much louder. I originally drilled it to ~5/16 and it was a little quieter and ran just as good. If it doesn't work for you drill it all the way.

You will notice that the backpressure is lower and the needle will lean out some. you need to richen the needle to keep the same setting you had before drilling the pipe.

For holding those kind of screws I'd use JB weld.

Thanks a lot guys sounds good I have some minor stuff to do and will be out testing again next week.

I have a few more questions and have numbered them for easier responses

Don,

I have the parobolic quiet pipe and just inside the removable piece at the rear of the pipe there is a baffle with several smaller holes.I assume this is part of the reason the pipe is quiet.

1)Are you suggesting to drill out the end of the baffle to match the ID of the very end or outlet of the pipe.

I have the pipe apart now because the 3 screws that hold the end or baffle of the pipe in place have backed out.

2)What would you guys suggest to use to hold the screws in place. will blue loctite stand the heat.

My pushrod going to the rudder now consist of 2 seperate fairly large pushrods that are threaded on each end and conneted together with a couple 3/16" wheel collars.

3)Is there a more better cleaner looking installation in place of the above

Thank a lot.

Terry

 

[tmunn]

I am a newbie and was told several things about this boat/motor before i bought it from a fellow member here that were not correct and basically was ripped off.

I have spent much time on my own trying to correct things. :angry:

I do not know what type of pipe it is i was"told " it was a parobolic

it looks nothing like the one in your link.

Mine is black and The end of the pipe is held with 3 small screws and when you remove the end you see it has a piece that prodrudes inside the pipe towards the front .This "baffle" i will call it has 10 small holes it it that are aprox. 1/8" in dia.

Would I be able to remove the screws if i use the J-B weld ?

I appreciate all the help.

Terry

 

[Dasboatman]

You said:

"Mine is black and The end of the pipe is held with 3 small screws and when you remove the end you see it has a piece that prodrudes inside the pipe towards the front .This "baffle" i will call it has 10 small holes it it that are aprox. 1/8" in dia."

Mornin' Terry,

What does the exhaust area of the pipe look like??? Is it per chance a louvered type of opening (three parallel louvers), rather than a stinger?? I'm thinking it may be an old K&B pipe. I'd send a picture along, but I haven't had one in years now.

Good to hear you have had it into the water. Do you have access to a digital camera so we can see some of the questionable items??? A picture is worth thousands of words. CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[Don Ferrette]

"Mine is black and The end of the pipe is held with 3 small screws and when you remove the end you see it has a piece that prodrudes inside the pipe towards the front .This "baffle" i will call it has 10 small holes it it that are aprox. 1/8" in dia...."

Ok Terry that sounds like it might be one of the Euro muffled pipes, perhaps Rossi? I know OPS had some like that but I thought they were all silver?? I've not seen many people run those but maybe someone on here can help (try to post a pic or two). An alternative choice you might consider is the 8.5-10cc Macs muffled pipe (#1250-$59 @ Tower). I've seen it work really well on that motor & since it's an airplane pipe they pop up cheap all the time, think I paid $20 for the last one I found in mint condition. B)

 

[tmunn]

Morning bob,

I do have a camera but cannot seam to figure out how to post the pics.....duh.... but my friend does so I will try again or get him to.

The pipe I have is powder coated black, has a prox 1/2" opening where it couples with the header. back around 7" form that end there is a weld then the pressure line then the pipe widens up to about 1.5" and continues this size to the rear.

At the rear of the pipe there is a piece held inside the end of the pipe by 3 screws.

When removed you can see that this piece is made with a baffle in it aprox 1.25" long, tubular and if you look into the end of this piece you cannot see through it.This piece that extends into the pipe has 10 holes in it 3 across from each other and 2 across from each other.

When I have this cap piece removed and look further into the pipe I see a small hole in piece of in the pipe aprox 3/8" in dia.This pipe is larger where the weld starts and tapers down toward the rear and stops a prox 1.5" form where the end of the baffle would be once the end piece is re-installed into the end of the pipe.

It"looks like "

The gasses are funneled throuh the smaller hole toward the end of the pipe then out the small holes in the

baffle.

I am not surprised that this this is could be a low quality pipe the boat had been hacked and put together with Homemade stuff, crappy original engine and mickey mouse stuff.

I will do a complete re-guild this winter.just trying to get a couple runs out of it this fall to see how she works

Thanks again

Terry

Guys,

Is there any advantage of using the silent tuned pipe other than being quite

Our main running pond and where I will be running this boat pond is very secluded and not near houses.

I like the boats loud anyway.

What would be another non quite pipe you guys would suggest for this engine/boat setup.

If it is too "fat" where the pipe runs over the radio box it may not fit and hit the radio box cover.

Thanks

 

[tmunn]

Guys

I have read that in some cases that for example if you have a .45 engine the pipes for the .60 will work better .

Is this correct

 

[Tim Kish]

Guys

I have read that in some cases that for example if you have a .45 engine the pipes for the .60 will work better .

Is this correct

OPS 67 pipe works very well with the OPS 45.

Tim K

 

[Don Ferrette]

Guys

I have read that in some cases that for example if you have a .45 engine the pipes for the .60 will work better .

Is this correct

In some cases yes which is why I suggested the #1250 MACs 10cc airplane pipe. I've seen that pipe work extremely well on the OPS45, the purple head CMB Evo 45 & CMB gold head cam 45.

 

[tmunn]

I am trying to posta picture.

 

[tmunn]

What would you guys think of this pipe it is non muffled but It does not matter to me.if you think it would work .

There is one here in my town .

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXZ562&P=7

thanks guys

Terry

 

[Dan Hydro]

What would you guys think of this pipe it is non muffled but It does not matter to me.if you think it would work .

There is one here in my town .

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXZ562&P=7

thanks guys

Terry

Ok guys, here are some pictures for Terry

 

[Dan_Cousin]

What would you guys think of this pipe it is non muffled but It does not matter to me.if you think it would work .

There is one here in my town .

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXZ562&P=7

thanks guys

Terry

That is the 10CC MACs pipe Don F was talking about. There is a muffled version that is good too but quieter. If you do decide to race it you will need a muffled pipe or a add on muffler for sanctioned events.

Try the pipe you have first, you have something that will work out for ya. Especially if you just want something to mess around with. I'm sure it will work fine.

yes you can break JB weld. Especially after it has been thermal cycled a few times.

Get the setup instructions from Phil Thomas and set the boat up to his specs, follow the starting suggestions I recommended. If its hard to start and you have to pinch the fuel line to get it started, its too rich, if it sings it too lean. youre looking for a it to slightly hestate when going from 1/3 throttle and squeezing the trigger to full throttle for one second before letting off. Work the throttle in a smooth manner, dont slam it open or closed or the engine will likely kill on you.

Glad to hear about someone new getting interested in the sport. You've come to the right spot. The folks on here can make a styrofoam cooler run laps.

Good luck and ask away.