OPS Carburetor poping off

[patmccoy]

I am putting together this old mono hull that I started over 30 years ago. I purchased a OPS AE85002US .80 motor for the power. I had it almost complete and took it outside to do a bench run. I hooked us some water, fuel and everything else I could think of. Started the motor and started to adjust the carb so it would at least idle an a resonable rpm. Got the setting close when it reved up and stoped. Yes the carb poped off. Figuring I didn't tighten it up the way I should have, I made sure nothing looked out of place on the outside of the barrel and proceeded to tighten it up. After reasembly took the boat outside again to start the bench testing again.

Got it running close again when it reved up again and the carb poped off again.

I do not believe the carb should be glued on.

Any sugestions from anyone?

Thanks

Pat McCoy

 

[Al Hobbs]

Once the OPS carb starts popping off, it is difficult to keep it in place again.

Make sure that your throttle linkage at full throttle is not pulling the carb away from the engine.

When I had this trouble, I ended up using JB Weld to keep the carb in place. But, that was many years ago.

Maybe someone else has a better idea.

Al Hobbs

 

[P THOMAS]

Once the OPS carb starts popping off, it is difficult to keep it in place again.

Make sure that your throttle linkage at full throttle is not pulling the carb away from the engine.

When I had this trouble, I ended up using JB Weld to keep the carb in place. But, that was many years ago.

Maybe someone else has a better idea.

Al Hobbs

Yes the OPS carbs will not stay on unless you use some JB weld. If it is a new motor maybe some red locktite will hold it. The fit and vibrations cause it to loosen, so dont run it too much on the bench it willonly get looser. Put a light coat on the carb barrel and extra around the carb after it is mounted.

Dont wast your time running it out of water, what ever setting you think is good wont work on the water, probally will be too lean.

 

[Michael Costanzo]

hi pat, try ruffing up the neck of the carb and the case,clean it real good with brake clean and get some GREEN lock-tite,good coat of it and put it together and let it dry overnight. green is used for bearing races that do not fit well. good luck,mike.

 

[Ray Sametz]

I'm assuming it's a disc rotor with a draw bar, 1st lose the draw bar and tap the hole from both sides. Use an 8/32 set screw on each side with some green lock tight. B)

 

[patmccoy]

I'm assuming it's a disc rotor with a draw bar, 1st lose the draw bar and tap the hole from both sides. Use an 8/32 set screw on each side with some green lock tight. B)

This sounds like the possible removable solution in case I would like to try a larger carb in the futhre? Thanks

 

[patmccoy]

hi pat, try ruffing up the neck of the carb and the case,clean it real good with brake clean and get some GREEN lock-tite,good coat of it and put it together and let it dry overnight. green is used for bearing races that do not fit well. good luck,mike.

I never heard of GREEN Lock-Tite. Is it removable?

 

[patmccoy]

Once the OPS carb starts popping off, it is difficult to keep it in place again.

Make sure that your throttle linkage at full throttle is not pulling the carb away from the engine.

When I had this trouble, I ended up using JB Weld to keep the carb in place. But, that was many years ago.

Maybe someone else has a better idea.

Al Hobbs

Are you telling be that OPS has had this problem for many years and it is still a problem? I thought only GM ran their business that way?

 

[SayMikey]

Once the OPS carb starts popping off, it is difficult to keep it in place again.

Make sure that your throttle linkage at full throttle is not pulling the carb away from the engine.

When I had this trouble, I ended up using JB Weld to keep the carb in place. But, that was many years ago.

Maybe someone else has a better idea.

Al Hobbs

Are you telling be that OPS has had this problem for many years and it is still a problem? I thought only GM ran their business that way?

Then only way to lossen up green loctite is with plenty of heat

 

[Tom Foley]

Once the OPS carb starts popping off, it is difficult to keep it in place again.

Make sure that your throttle linkage at full throttle is not pulling the carb away from the engine.

When I had this trouble, I ended up using JB Weld to keep the carb in place. But, that was many years ago.

Maybe someone else has a better idea.

Al Hobbs

Are you telling be that OPS has had this problem for many years and it is still a problem? I thought only GM ran their business that way?

It has to rate as one of the all time engineering blunders ever !!!! But yes ...we are telling you to GLUE the carb on !!!!!!! If you have never heard of GREEN Loctite ....you have a long learn ing curve on how to RUBE GOLDBERG FIX things !!!!! Next the crappyrod willbreak ..don't run it screaming lean or you will learn in a hurry !!!!!

 

[Dasboatman]

"It has to rate as one of the all time engineering blunders ever !!!! But yes ...we are telling you to GLUE the carb on !!!!!!! If you have never heard of GREEN Loctite ....you have a long learn ing curve on how to RUBE GOLDBERG FIX things !!!!! Next the crappyrod will break ..don't run it screaming lean or you will learn in a hurry !!!!!"

Hey Pat,

Is the carb the slide type or the rotary barrel??

Another option would be clean carb snout, and back plate opening and use some 30 minute epoxy - I used this method for years and it's relatively easy to take apart when you need to get the back plate off. I had a bad experience involving Red Locktite in my possession and having an old Navy Master Chief Machinist learn what I was about to do with it. Lets just say I won't touch anything but 242 Blue Locktite ever again.

******I completely agree with Tom about the Stock OPS Rod - - JUNK !!! Do yourself a favor and see if anyone has an RPM rod available. As I recall, it's the same for the 67 and 80 engines. My Shamrock Imports OPS Marine 67/80 Parts List shows: Part # 6510 60/80 Standard con rod $42.00, and Part # 6520 NBRod requires 6750 needles and 6870 Crank Shaft $51.50

No comment Tom - - I know where you live - Har, Har !!! I know I'm age challenged !!!

There is not much meat in the back plate for a larger carb. I have a couple 67s that have K&B reworked carbs on them. Some material taken off carb snout, some taken from the back plate - - also epoxy used to keep together. CHEERS !!! Bob

 

[Kez]

I had the same problem with an OS 46 and posted the same question on this board last year. The problem is the draw bolt design. In my opinion, a split type draw bolt works better and the larger the diameter the better.

Also, the neck to back housing bore fit does matter. As someone stated already, once it came off, the chaffing will mark the neck and reduce the neck OD making the problem worse.

T received many good suggestions including to replace the draw bolt with a screw of the same OD; drilling and tapping a set screw if there is enough material in the housing and gluing the carb with Loctite, epoxy or JB weld.

I like to keep my engines stock so I chose to glue the carb. I have found that Green loctite did not work for me. Probably because the neck to bore fit was already too loose. I have not tried epoxy and I think it should work well. I have not tried red loctite and it is stronger than green. I finally JB weld the carb. I rotated the carb a little so that I can get to the four bolts that hold the back plate in place. I can loosen the bolts without removing the carb. It is holding so far.

kez

 

[Terry Keeley]

You can also put a couple of set screws in the housing.

 

[patmccoy]

Ok, What an eye opener. Yet again I should have asked more questions before the purchass. It sounds to me like I will need to stick another hundred into this project? Would ime be better to start over with a new engine? What is the recomendation for a good engine this time?

Thanks

Pat.

 

[Bill Britton]

Use Plasti-Weld instead of JB Weld. Holds just as good and comes off much easier if you need to clean it off the case later.

 

[nitrotwin]

Clean it (clean it good) JB weld it, snug it up, let it cure ,run the sh#$ out of it after the rod change. I have had the same prob. w/ a .45 ops.Some heat will be needed to get it off I have found 350 in the oven for about 20 to 30 mins will set it free. GLUE IT