old K&B 7.5... .45 cu in...starter motor

[frankdoman]

Does anybody know if I need any special starting motor when I try to start this motor (once I make sure it is not frozen from 25 yrs sitting) ? Here is the motor....(or see my earlier post here that has some pics)... http://www.modelengine.org/gallery/details...amp;mode=search .... Will the starter motor at http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...LXJC35&P=ML work as it is or do I need special cones, inserts, etc like it talks about at the bottom of the specs, tech notes about the starter ?? I just do not know how the starter will actually turn the metal cone flywheel on the top of the motor without some type of locking/catching pins or something...or does a rubber cone come with the starter that creates enuff "grip" to turn the metal cone flywheel ?? The holes on the metal cone also tell me MAYBE there are pins or something that grabs the flywheel there?? Obviously, I have never had one of these before, and this thing is so old it is hard to find stuff about it...thanks.

 

[topfuel443]

Frank, that will work just fine. The rubber cone is also all you need for the flywheel/starting. Use a good 12 volt battery (anything from a 7amp gell cell all the way up to a car battery will work), and you will be just fine.

~James

 

[frankdoman]

Great...thanks James. I also see where K&B outboards run in reverse, so the hookup to the battery for the starter is also backwards connections.

Frank

 

[topfuel443]

Good catch, yes, you will need to hook up the starter in reverse polarity for the outboard.

~James

 

[camaroboy383]

frank i would also like to add that the holes in the flywheel of the engine are actually to bind up the flywheel so you can un-screw the nut on the end of the crank easily.. find your self a nice drill bit or round bar that fits nice in the holes or hole, grab the bit/bar and un-screw the nut.. you might consider using both holes with two bits/bars on that 25 yr old engine.. if the nut is super tight and you try and do it with one it tends to distort or wholler out the hole.

that engine needs a really good cleaning..so it wouldnt hurt to pull it down. if you have issues with it being siezed or bolts being a pain dont push it,,she's old so if you can pull the power head off of it and pickle it in after run oil / tranny fluid. let it sit for a day then try pullin it apart..

alden

 

[HOTWATER]

frank i would also like to add that the holes in the flywheel of the engine are actually to bind up the flywheel so you can un-screw the nut on the end of the crank easily.. find your self a nice drill bit or round bar that fits nice in the holes or hole, grab the bit/bar and un-screw the nut.. you might consider using both holes with two bits/bars on that 25 yr old engine.. if the nut is super tight and you try and do it with one it tends to distort or wholler out the hole.
that engine needs a really good cleaning..so it wouldnt hurt to pull it down. if you have issues with it being siezed or bolts being a pain dont push it,,she's old so if you can pull the power head off of it and pickle it in after run oil / tranny fluid. let it sit for a day then try pullin it apart..

alden

Hey Frank, did you give up on me? No more jokes about the water skiing squirrel... i promise! LOL!!

 

[frankdoman]

frank i would also like to add that the holes in the flywheel of the engine are actually to bind up the flywheel so you can un-screw the nut on the end of the crank easily.. find your self a nice drill bit or round bar that fits nice in the holes or hole, grab the bit/bar and un-screw the nut.. you might consider using both holes with two bits/bars on that 25 yr old engine.. if the nut is super tight and you try and do it with one it tends to distort or wholler out the hole.
that engine needs a really good cleaning..so it wouldnt hurt to pull it down. if you have issues with it being siezed or bolts being a pain dont push it,,she's old so if you can pull the power head off of it and pickle it in after run oil / tranny fluid. let it sit for a day then try pullin it apart..

alden

Pictures are at >>> http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/Al...61/t_=161727161 >> OK, took the motor apart and was pleasantly surprised to find grease and oil in most spots...like drive shaft/lower unit, piston/cylinder. However, I can not get the crank to turn. I have it just in the crank housing, with carb off. Soaked in gas overnite, now have it doused in Liquid Wrench. I believe it should turn pretty freely by putting in the threaded shaft for the starter cone/flywheel and turning it there, or by turning it from the bottom with the pin that goes into the back of the piston...correct? Should I be able to knock the entire crank shaft assy out of the housing and thru the bearing at the top, how ? Can I try vice grips or something to turn the crank and if so grab it by the threaded shaft on top (where the cone attaches) , or by the pin on the bottom that goes into the back of the piston ?Neither place can I budge it at all...does look a little rusty/dirty espec when I look close up at the pictures of the inside...see pics. Any ideas on how to free this crank up, assuming it should spin/turn pretty freely ? I have the old model, per the spec sheet, with the set screws that held the carb in the carb body throat (now all removed). Piston moves in the cylinder nicely and some lube in there, and drive shaft well lubed and looks in good shape. Ideas on the crank welcomed...My crank does NOT look exactly like the one in the spec sheet (surely mine is older), and on the bottom has another spacer or bearing and the pin that grabs the piston looks like it is pressed in vs. the spec sheet model, but pretty similar...THANKS FOR THE NEWS about the holes on the sides of the cone, I was puzzled by their need/use....can I attach the treaded shaft, the cone, and the locking nut on top and then try to turn the crank by grabbing the cone with channel locks, or by putting bits into the holes and twisting, or something if the housing is in a vice ??? just wondering.....thanks. F

I miss the squirrel jokes !!