Octura Wing Ding 60

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Kumar Shah

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2023
Messages
47
Good Morning from Livermore, CA

I've always been fascinated with the Octura Wing Ding! It just looks fast! Never thought much about getting one, primarily because I've been more of a flyer than a boater. I fondly remember seeing one on the San Diego Model Yacht Pond when I lived down there and, recently, I thought I'd look for one... So I put out a wanted add on RCG and someone actually had one NIB for sale and, that too, a 60 version! Needless to say, I jumped on the offer and paid a pretty penny for it! As we speak, it's on its way!

As I said, I've never really been into boats and have not built anything that floats other than a Dumas Big Swamp Buggy... A boat with an airplane engine... At least, there's some familiarity! That too, the Swamp Buggy's been in "the construction" phase for years! I tried to get as much info on the WD online but there's not much to offer, and least from I could find? So... I joined here to get some advice from all you experts on any tips and suggestions for the build and setup of my WD!

I hope to start a build thread to document the build and, more importantly, to learn from you all to correct any mistakes that I may be making in the build.

For starters, I have a OPS 60 size 666 marine engine, at least that's what I was told, on the way... Not new but, supposedly, in very good condition along with a NIB matching OPS pipe. I've attached pics of the said engine.

Anyway, that's all for now!

Thanks for any and all suggestions!
 

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My first boat was a (.049 size) Dumas Swamp Buggy as well. It's still a boat. It was a lot of fun to build an run (as a 11 year-old), back in early 1970's. I free-ran it (with out radio). A good learning experience.

The Wing Ding 60 is a cool boat. Take your time and read through instructions before starting. Make sure you have all necessary tools and materials (ie. epoxy, CA glue, glass cloth, etc.,.), also all necessary hardware (I would use current hardware- rudder assy, flex shaft, shaft log, stuffing box, strut assy, etc.,…).

Actually, the (36”) 60 size Octura Wing Ding hull would be better suited for a .45ci size engine, provides for a more balanced set-up (just my take).
 

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Thank you David for your insights. As this is my first proper boat, this really helps. In regards to the 45 size engine, what would you recommend? I'm finding it difficult to locate marine engines... Maybe I'm not looking in the right places!

Thanks again,

Kumar
 
Good Morning Tom!

Yes, finding out more and more about the engine and Wing Ding!

As you have experience with the engine, can you please suggest where can I get replacement parts such as the starter wheel (I hope this is the correct term) and the needle, to name a few?

Thank you!

Kumar
 
Kumar, watch the classified ads here on IW...
Lots of motors come up for sale here...just be ready to buy as they go quick!

You can also post "looking to buy" posts in the classified and that will also draw a lot of offers of motors or parts you are looking for.

I think you are referring to the flywheel, when you stated "starter wheel" ... is there something wrong with the one on your .67 ?

Needle valves are plentiful,, and depends upon which type you want to run...
a manual or radio controlled third channel type.
 
Hello Bill;

You're the second person who has had or suggested a 45 size engine on the WD/Piranha 60.

Is this because of the weight, characteristic or would a 67, such as what I've intended, be too much?

Thank you for any suggestions.

Kumar
 
Kumar:

Here are a few of the original Octura newsletter's that were released back in the day (when the Wing Ding was still popular in the racing world). A lot of valuable info, especially in regards to prop selection, etc.,...

Also, you'll notice mention of implementation of various boat/engine set-up's- ie.
"1675993416430.png
"
 

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I had a wing ding 40, but never could get it to run that well. Maybe if more people saw the news letters that He came out with, we might have gotten them to run better. Of course there was no computers back then to get all that info, so we waited for the next new hull to come out. I had a Lil Hoss that ran pretty good with ST G40 and back then open exhaust. The crapshooters were the hot ticket when they came out. I had a Churris hull that wasn't that great either. I finally settled with all C/S and they all ran great.
 
Kumar:

Here are a few of the original Octura newsletter's that were released back in the day (when the Wing Ding was still popular in the racing world). A lot of valuable info, especially in regards to prop selection, etc.,...

Also, you'll notice mention of implementation of various boat/engine set-up's- ie.
"View attachment 313464
"
Thank You David for the Octura Newsletters! This will be very helpful in the build!
 
Thank You David for the Octura Newsletters! This will be very helpful in the build!
Hello,
I bought this kit brand new in around 1985, Wing Ding 60. Built it at that time with advice from a experienced rc boat racer in Sacramento. There is a 2° wedge between the strut and transom. 3/16" flex shaft, strut, rudder assembly from Octura. Turn fin moved out to the sponson and a K&B 67. I ran it about 4 times through the yrs. But when it goes through the turns, the tail likes to bounce up and down a little. I still have the boat. If your interested, I can show you a paper with the sponson, strut, total weight and cg.
Arne.
 

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Hello,
I bought this kit brand new in around 1985, Wing Ding 60. Built it at that time with advice from a experienced rc boat racer in Sacramento. There is a 2° wedge between the strut and transom. 3/16" flex shaft, strut, rudder assembly from Octura. Turn fin moved out to the sponson and a K&B 67. I ran it about 4 times through the yrs. But when it goes through the turns, the tail likes to bounce up and down a little. I still have the boat. If your interested, I can show you a paper with the sponson, strut, total weight and cg.
Arne.
Yeah, the wedge between the strut & transom is used to offset the prop tendency to pull, or torque, the boat to the right. Some boaters offset the prop shaft centerline to one side (maybe 1/4”) to a achieve the same purpose
 
Kumar,
My dad raced several of the Wing Ding hydros in the 80’s I have been looking for one of the kits to have digitized for future builders. Would you have any interest in digitizing your kit? The original hardware is the hardest part as it often gets damaged in a crash with no replacement options.
He raced both 45’s and 65’s all in the 60 size WD. He used 90 size carbs on 45 OPS engines with sliding tuned pipes and remote fuel mixture control. The engines were mounted on rubber isolated mounts machined at home in our garage. I forgot what size props this combination performed with but they were amazing boats. Do to the rules just using displacement as the class designator, he was aloud to race 45’s from B hydro in the 65 size C hydro. He was more successful with the 45 even agains the larger engines in C hydro. His assessment was the 45’s made better power given their weight. Remember weight is everything. One extra pound on a scale can be 5 pounds when turning 5 G’s through a corner. His boats were all orange of his own blend like the color in the photo above. His name is on a nation traveling trophy 4 times somewhere. Originally raced with NAMBA and later IMPBA. We lived in Nevada and traveled to CA for most of the events. I have fond memories of that time in our lives.
I raced 21 size Nova Rossi’s in a Coyote hydro and A hydro.
 
Found this picture of a Wing Ding
from around 1985 in Sacramento. Don't remember anything about it.
Arne.
Thank You Arne for the pics... I'm trying to gather as much info on the WD before I start the build. Yes, please, if you have that paper you the specs of your build, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!

Kumar
 
Kumar,
My dad raced several of the Wing Ding hydros in the 80’s I have been looking for one of the kits to have digitized for future builders. Would you have any interest in digitizing your kit? The original hardware is the hardest part as it often gets damaged in a crash with no replacement options.
He raced both 45’s and 65’s all in the 60 size WD. He used 90 size carbs on 45 OPS engines with sliding tuned pipes and remote fuel mixture control. The engines were mounted on rubber isolated mounts machined at home in our garage. I forgot what size props this combination performed with but they were amazing boats. Do to the rules just using displacement as the class designator, he was aloud to race 45’s from B hydro in the 65 size C hydro. He was more successful with the 45 even agains the larger engines in C hydro. His assessment was the 45’s made better power given their weight. Remember weight is everything. One extra pound on a scale can be 5 pounds when turning 5 G’s through a corner. His boats were all orange of his own blend like the color in the photo above. His name is on a nation traveling trophy 4 times somewhere. Originally raced with NAMBA and later IMPBA. We lived in Nevada and traveled to CA for most of the events. I have fond memories of that time in our lives.
I raced 21 size Nova Rossi’s in a Coyote hydro and A hydro.
Good Morning Jason.

I received the kit yesterday! I pulled everything out of the box and was completely impressed with the parts! I could be wrong but the bulkhead pieces look like they were machined! It seems that everything will be going together with minimal fuss!

Kumar
 
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Continuing on my last post... For some reason, the page froze before I could finish the above post!

In any case, like I was saying, Thank you to Steve for offering the Wing Ding 60 for sale!

And a continuing thank you to all the Intlwaters' members for their suggestions, ideas and pics of their WD's! Please keep them coming!

Kumar
 
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