Novarossi bearings...new prices and other info

[Glenn Quarles]

Friends, I would like to pass on some advice...one of the consistant problems I see as used motors come through here is worn cases and scared crankshafts from guys running their bearings too long. This is the easist way to shorten the life of an engine, but is also one of the easiest to prevent. What happens when you run a set of bearing to long is that they get enough play in them to let the crank start rubbing away the seal area in the front of the case and once this seal is gone the performance and consistency fall off and the engine is not rebuildable (it is if you don't mind buying a new case and crank shaft). It is important that you change the bearings BEFORE they go bad!!! If you use them until they don't feel good any more chances are the seal in the front of the case is already damaged and there is nothing you can do to get it back. I recommend changing the bearings twice a year if you live in a location where you can run all year and at least once a year if you run only in the summer.

I know you are thinking "Yeah, Glenn just wants to sell more bearings". Well not really, it would be easier for me just to sell you a new motor every year or two as you wore out the cases. But because I believe what I am saying I have lowered the price on the bearings! The cost was $60 a set but I have lowered them to $46 a set for the .21 bearings.

Another bit of info on bearings...they are not all created equal! And I am not talking just about what "class" of fit they come in. Things like where they fit in each class, runout, roundness, etc. I have recenty met a gentleman that knows more about bearings in model engines than I ever thought possible. He has built engines for control line speed, RC on-road cars and drag racing, tether cars and has just started building boat motors. One of the things he always does when rebuilding an engine is rebuild the bearings. He has many years of research on these kinds of motors and has figured out exactly how much internal clearance both the front and rear bearings need to provide maximum performance and long life. He can measure and build a bearing down to the .0001" of the perfect fit. I was surprised to hear that many of the new bearings he gets to rebuild are too tight, not to loose. The problems with a tight bearing show up both in loss of performance and reduced life. He has many thousands of dollars worth of ceramic balls in MANY sizes so he can build bearings very precisely. I have been very impressed to say the least and the engine he built for me is the best feeling and running engine I have ever owned.

I have sent several set of Novarossi bearings for him to rebuild and I will try to keep some in stock at all time for those of you looking for another step up. The cost is $45/set in addition to the cost of the bearings. Thant is really a good deal when you think about how much works it takes to rebuild one perfectly and you end up with a ceramic/steel bearing that should run longer (you only have wear on the races now instead of both the balls and races) than the stock ones.

Anyway I hope this doesn't sound too much like a commercial to buy more stuff, but I though it might be helpful information to pass on.

Glenn

 

[Richard Dahlheimer]

Friends, I would like to pass on some advice...one of the consistant problems I see as used motors come through here is worn cases and scared crankshafts from guys running their bearings too long. This is the easist way to shorten the life of an engine, but is also one of the easiest to prevent. What happens when you run a set of bearing to long is that they get enough play in them to let the crank start rubbing away the seal area in the front of the case and once this seal is gone the performance and consistency fall off and the engine is not rebuildable (it is if you don't mind buying a new case and crank shaft). It is important that you change the bearings BEFORE they go bad!!! If you use them until they don't feel good any more chances are the seal in the front of the case is already damaged and there is nothing you can do to get it back. I recommend changing the bearings twice a year if you live in a location where you can run all year and at least once a year if you run only in the summer.
I know you are thinking "Yeah, Glenn just wants to sell more bearings". Well not really, it would be easier for me just to sell you a new motor every year or two as you wore out the cases. But because I believe what I am saying I have lowered the price on the bearings! The cost was $60 a set but I have lowered them to $46 a set for the .21 bearings.

Another bit of info on bearings...they are not all created equal! And I am not talking just about what "class" of fit they come in. Things like where they fit in each class, runout, roundness, etc. I have recenty met a gentleman that knows more about bearings in model engines than I ever thought possible. He has built engines for control line speed, RC on-road cars and drag racing, tether cars and has just started building boat motors. One of the things he always does when rebuilding an engine is rebuild the bearings. He has many years of research on these kinds of motors and has figured out exactly how much internal clearance both the front and rear bearings need to provide maximum performance and long life. He can measure and build a bearing down to the .0001" of the perfect fit. I was surprised to hear that many of the new bearings he gets to rebuild are too tight, not to loose. The problems with a tight bearing show up both in loss of performance and reduced life. He has many thousands of dollars worth of ceramic balls in MANY sizes so he can build bearings very precisely. I have been very impressed to say the least and the engine he built for me is the best feeling and running engine I have ever owned.

I have sent several set of Novarossi bearings for him to rebuild and I will try to keep some in stock at all time for those of you looking for another step up. The cost is $40/set in addition to the cost of the bearings. Thant is really a good deal when you think about how much works it takes to rebuild one perfectly and you end up with a ceramic/steel bearing that should run longer (you only have wear on the races now instead of both the balls and races) than the stock ones.

Anyway I hope this doesn't sound too much like a commercial to buy more stuff, but I though it might be helpful information to pass on.

Glenn

Very good info Glenn. I would like to order one set of these bearings for a 14mm crank L/S Nova. Uses the # 16000 rear bearing. Thanks, Richard D

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Friends, I would like to pass on some advice...one of the consistant problems I see as used motors come through here is worn cases and scared crankshafts from guys running their bearings too long. This is the easist way to shorten the life of an engine, but is also one of the easiest to prevent. What happens when you run a set of bearing to long is that they get enough play in them to let the crank start rubbing away the seal area in the front of the case and once this seal is gone the performance and consistency fall off and the engine is not rebuildable (it is if you don't mind buying a new case and crank shaft). It is important that you change the bearings BEFORE they go bad!!! If you use them until they don't feel good any more chances are the seal in the front of the case is already damaged and there is nothing you can do to get it back. I recommend changing the bearings twice a year if you live in a location where you can run all year and at least once a year if you run only in the summer.
I know you are thinking "Yeah, Glenn just wants to sell more bearings". Well not really, it would be easier for me just to sell you a new motor every year or two as you wore out the cases. But because I believe what I am saying I have lowered the price on the bearings! The cost was $60 a set but I have lowered them to $46 a set for the .21 bearings.

Another bit of info on bearings...they are not all created equal! And I am not talking just about what "class" of fit they come in. Things like where they fit in each class, runout, roundness, etc. I have recenty met a gentleman that knows more about bearings in model engines than I ever thought possible. He has built engines for control line speed, RC on-road cars and drag racing, tether cars and has just started building boat motors. One of the things he always does when rebuilding an engine is rebuild the bearings. He has many years of research on these kinds of motors and has figured out exactly how much internal clearance both the front and rear bearings need to provide maximum performance and long life. He can measure and build a bearing down to the .0001" of the perfect fit. I was surprised to hear that many of the new bearings he gets to rebuild are too tight, not to loose. The problems with a tight bearing show up both in loss of performance and reduced life. He has many thousands of dollars worth of ceramic balls in MANY sizes so he can build bearings very precisely. I have been very impressed to say the least and the engine he built for me is the best feeling and running engine I have ever owned.

I have sent several set of Novarossi bearings for him to rebuild and I will try to keep some in stock at all time for those of you looking for another step up. The cost is $40/set in addition to the cost of the bearings. Thant is really a good deal when you think about how much works it takes to rebuild one perfectly and you end up with a ceramic/steel bearing that should run longer (you only have wear on the races now instead of both the balls and races) than the stock ones.

Anyway I hope this doesn't sound too much like a commercial to buy more stuff, but I though it might be helpful information to pass on.

Glenn

Very good info Glenn. I would like to order one set of these bearings for a 14mm crank L/S Nova. Uses the # 16000 rear bearing. Thanks, Richard D

Richard, you have a PM.

Glenn

 

[Richard Dahlheimer]

Friends, I would like to pass on some advice...one of the consistant problems I see as used motors come through here is worn cases and scared crankshafts from guys running their bearings too long. This is the easist way to shorten the life of an engine, but is also one of the easiest to prevent. What happens when you run a set of bearing to long is that they get enough play in them to let the crank start rubbing away the seal area in the front of the case and once this seal is gone the performance and consistency fall off and the engine is not rebuildable (it is if you don't mind buying a new case and crank shaft). It is important that you change the bearings BEFORE they go bad!!! If you use them until they don't feel good any more chances are the seal in the front of the case is already damaged and there is nothing you can do to get it back. I recommend changing the bearings twice a year if you live in a location where you can run all year and at least once a year if you run only in the summer.
I know you are thinking "Yeah, Glenn just wants to sell more bearings". Well not really, it would be easier for me just to sell you a new motor every year or two as you wore out the cases. But because I believe what I am saying I have lowered the price on the bearings! The cost was $60 a set but I have lowered them to $46 a set for the .21 bearings.

Another bit of info on bearings...they are not all created equal! And I am not talking just about what "class" of fit they come in. Things like where they fit in each class, runout, roundness, etc. I have recenty met a gentleman that knows more about bearings in model engines than I ever thought possible. He has built engines for control line speed, RC on-road cars and drag racing, tether cars and has just started building boat motors. One of the things he always does when rebuilding an engine is rebuild the bearings. He has many years of research on these kinds of motors and has figured out exactly how much internal clearance both the front and rear bearings need to provide maximum performance and long life. He can measure and build a bearing down to the .0001" of the perfect fit. I was surprised to hear that many of the new bearings he gets to rebuild are too tight, not to loose. The problems with a tight bearing show up both in loss of performance and reduced life. He has many thousands of dollars worth of ceramic balls in MANY sizes so he can build bearings very precisely. I have been very impressed to say the least and the engine he built for me is the best feeling and running engine I have ever owned.

I have sent several set of Novarossi bearings for him to rebuild and I will try to keep some in stock at all time for those of you looking for another step up. The cost is $40/set in addition to the cost of the bearings. Thant is really a good deal when you think about how much works it takes to rebuild one perfectly and you end up with a ceramic/steel bearing that should run longer (you only have wear on the races now instead of both the balls and races) than the stock ones.

Anyway I hope this doesn't sound too much like a commercial to buy more stuff, but I though it might be helpful information to pass on.

Glenn

Very good info Glenn. I would like to order one set of these bearings for a 14mm crank L/S Nova. Uses the # 16000 rear bearing. Thanks, Richard D

Richard, you have a PM.

Glenn

Glenn, ceramic bearing set arrived Monday. Thanks for a great product and great service. Now i just need some soft water lol Richard D

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Friends, I would like to pass on some advice...one of the consistant problems I see as used motors come through here is worn cases and scared crankshafts from guys running their bearings too long. This is the easist way to shorten the life of an engine, but is also one of the easiest to prevent. What happens when you run a set of bearing to long is that they get enough play in them to let the crank start rubbing away the seal area in the front of the case and once this seal is gone the performance and consistency fall off and the engine is not rebuildable (it is if you don't mind buying a new case and crank shaft). It is important that you change the bearings BEFORE they go bad!!! If you use them until they don't feel good any more chances are the seal in the front of the case is already damaged and there is nothing you can do to get it back. I recommend changing the bearings twice a year if you live in a location where you can run all year and at least once a year if you run only in the summer.
I know you are thinking "Yeah, Glenn just wants to sell more bearings". Well not really, it would be easier for me just to sell you a new motor every year or two as you wore out the cases. But because I believe what I am saying I have lowered the price on the bearings! The cost was $60 a set but I have lowered them to $46 a set for the .21 bearings.

Another bit of info on bearings...they are not all created equal! And I am not talking just about what "class" of fit they come in. Things like where they fit in each class, runout, roundness, etc. I have recenty met a gentleman that knows more about bearings in model engines than I ever thought possible. He has built engines for control line speed, RC on-road cars and drag racing, tether cars and has just started building boat motors. One of the things he always does when rebuilding an engine is rebuild the bearings. He has many years of research on these kinds of motors and has figured out exactly how much internal clearance both the front and rear bearings need to provide maximum performance and long life. He can measure and build a bearing down to the .0001" of the perfect fit. I was surprised to hear that many of the new bearings he gets to rebuild are too tight, not to loose. The problems with a tight bearing show up both in loss of performance and reduced life. He has many thousands of dollars worth of ceramic balls in MANY sizes so he can build bearings very precisely. I have been very impressed to say the least and the engine he built for me is the best feeling and running engine I have ever owned.

I have sent several set of Novarossi bearings for him to rebuild and I will try to keep some in stock at all time for those of you looking for another step up. The cost is $40/set in addition to the cost of the bearings. Thant is really a good deal when you think about how much works it takes to rebuild one perfectly and you end up with a ceramic/steel bearing that should run longer (you only have wear on the races now instead of both the balls and races) than the stock ones.

Anyway I hope this doesn't sound too much like a commercial to buy more stuff, but I though it might be helpful information to pass on.

Glenn

Very good info Glenn. I would like to order one set of these bearings for a 14mm crank L/S Nova. Uses the # 16000 rear bearing. Thanks, Richard D

Richard, you have a PM.

Glenn

Glenn, ceramic bearing set arrived Monday. Thanks for a great product and great service. Now i just need some soft water lol Richard D

Richard, thanks! I have plenty of soft water and a race coming up this weekend...can you make it here by Sat?

Glenn

 

[Richard Dahlheimer]

Friends, I would like to pass on some advice...one of the consistant problems I see as used motors come through here is worn cases and scared crankshafts from guys running their bearings too long. This is the easist way to shorten the life of an engine, but is also one of the easiest to prevent. What happens when you run a set of bearing to long is that they get enough play in them to let the crank start rubbing away the seal area in the front of the case and once this seal is gone the performance and consistency fall off and the engine is not rebuildable (it is if you don't mind buying a new case and crank shaft). It is important that you change the bearings BEFORE they go bad!!! If you use them until they don't feel good any more chances are the seal in the front of the case is already damaged and there is nothing you can do to get it back. I recommend changing the bearings twice a year if you live in a location where you can run all year and at least once a year if you run only in the summer.
I know you are thinking "Yeah, Glenn just wants to sell more bearings". Well not really, it would be easier for me just to sell you a new motor every year or two as you wore out the cases. But because I believe what I am saying I have lowered the price on the bearings! The cost was $60 a set but I have lowered them to $46 a set for the .21 bearings.

Another bit of info on bearings...they are not all created equal! And I am not talking just about what "class" of fit they come in. Things like where they fit in each class, runout, roundness, etc. I have recenty met a gentleman that knows more about bearings in model engines than I ever thought possible. He has built engines for control line speed, RC on-road cars and drag racing, tether cars and has just started building boat motors. One of the things he always does when rebuilding an engine is rebuild the bearings. He has many years of research on these kinds of motors and has figured out exactly how much internal clearance both the front and rear bearings need to provide maximum performance and long life. He can measure and build a bearing down to the .0001" of the perfect fit. I was surprised to hear that many of the new bearings he gets to rebuild are too tight, not to loose. The problems with a tight bearing show up both in loss of performance and reduced life. He has many thousands of dollars worth of ceramic balls in MANY sizes so he can build bearings very precisely. I have been very impressed to say the least and the engine he built for me is the best feeling and running engine I have ever owned.

I have sent several set of Novarossi bearings for him to rebuild and I will try to keep some in stock at all time for those of you looking for another step up. The cost is $40/set in addition to the cost of the bearings. Thant is really a good deal when you think about how much works it takes to rebuild one perfectly and you end up with a ceramic/steel bearing that should run longer (you only have wear on the races now instead of both the balls and races) than the stock ones.

Anyway I hope this doesn't sound too much like a commercial to buy more stuff, but I though it might be helpful information to pass on.

Glenn

Very good info Glenn. I would like to order one set of these bearings for a 14mm crank L/S Nova. Uses the # 16000 rear bearing. Thanks, Richard D

Richard, you have a PM.

Glenn

Glenn, ceramic bearing set arrived Monday. Thanks for a great product and great service. Now i just need some soft water lol Richard D

Richard, thanks! I have plenty of soft water and a race coming up this weekend...can you make it here by Sat?

Glenn

Glenn, good luck at your race this coming weekend. I just enjoy getting out, and doing testing now days. Richard D

 

[Tom Foley]

OK , so let me get this straight ..you are suggesting that I take my new set of 80.00 bearings and send them in to be rebuilt before I run them so I can play with my model boat ..and then do this twice a year so I can take a trophy home ? Not happening in this economy ! :lol:

 

[socco72]

glenn do you know if novarossi has ever made marine engines for another company like for hpi?

 

[Tom Foley]

Well Glen I am tryig to find a 25.8 mm OD Main Crank bearing for my Novarossi , the 25.4 that I got locally from Technology Hobbies is too small in it's OD for my case . thanks in advance ! If you have one I need to get one , thanks ,

 

[John Knight]

Well Glen I am tryig to find a 25.8 mm OD Main Crank bearing for my Novarossi , the 25.4 that I got locally from Technology Hobbies is too small in it's OD for my case . thanks in advance ! If you have one I need to get one , thanks ,

Tom,

From memory (that is failing me some too) the 25.8 NR bearing # is 16800. The smaller 25.4 is #16000.

John

 

[Richard Dahlheimer]

Well Glen I am tryig to find a 25.8 mm OD Main Crank bearing for my Novarossi , the 25.4 that I got locally from Technology Hobbies is too small in it's OD for my case . thanks in advance ! If you have one I need to get one , thanks ,

Tom,

From memory (that is failing me some too) the 25.8 NR bearing # is 16800. The smaller 25.4 is #16000.

John

Yes, those are the correct numbers. Richard D

 

[Tom Foley]

Great info , thanks !

 

[aaron alberico]

Guy's

got those bearings instock

regards Aaron

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Well Glen I am tryig to find a 25.8 mm OD Main Crank bearing for my Novarossi , the 25.4 that I got locally from Technology Hobbies is too small in it's OD for my case . thanks in advance ! If you have one I need to get one , thanks ,

Tom, yes I have those bearings in stock.

As for the info I was passing on in the first post, it was meant to let guys know that bearing maintance is very important and that by the time the bearings feel bad irreversable damage may already be done to the critical seal area in the front of the case. I also wanted to pass on info about a performance advantage I recently found with the modified bearings. I did not mean to imply that a person "had" to change their bearings or had to use the mod bearings, but just to let them know there is a performance advantage for those looking for a few hundred more RPM and more consistancy.

Give me a call on the bearing and I will get it right out to you.

Glenn

 

[dwilfong]

looking for a 40242 21 header do you have one in stock.

 

[Glenn Quarles]

looking for a 40242 21 header do you have one in stock.

Yes I do. The 40242 is actually the .12 size 180* header, but I also have the .21 180* header in stock. The .12 size is $18 and the .21 size is $20. Both come with a spring and rubber exhaust gasket.

Glenn

 

[Tunnelbill]

Hi Glenn,

Do you have a NR Outboard 90* Header instock?

Thanks,

Bill

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Hi Glenn,
Do you have a NR Outboard 90* Header instock?

Thanks,

Bill

Bill, yes I do. They are $20 plus shipping.

Glenn

 

[dwilfong]

looking for a 40242 21 header do you have one in stock.

Yes I do. The 40242 is actually the .12 size 180* header, but I also have the .21 180* header in stock. The .12 size is $18 and the .21 size is $20. Both come with a spring and rubber exhaust gasket.

Glenn

I would like to buy a.21 header send PM with info.

 

[Glenn Quarles]

Friends, I have more of the custom ceramic bearings in stock.

Glenn