my MVD with upgrades.

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Doug Brumfield

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2011
Messages
64
Figured Id share a bit about my Miss Vegas Deuce, I have pretty much upgraded everything on it this spring, and am waiting on a few pieces to finish her up.

I will start by saying Im pretty unhappy with this boat in alot of respects.. I think quality is sub par to what I expected, in many, glaring ways. Maybe my boat was just a bad one, I dunno..

My biggest complaint was extreme siphoning.. it took me a while but I eventually found that the low speed needle on the carb was faulty, too short, and never metered fuel.. so at idle it was the same a wide open.. wish I woulda caught it earlier..

There is a list of other stuff that needed attention to get it going, but thats neither here nor there.. I started upgrading hardware a little last fall..

I added a 10 oz sullivan tank, with a pressure tap on top instead of being curved tube, I know its a little big but it fits nicely, I built a small frame and used hooks and rubber bands.. it did require cutting out the rear tank mount.

I changed out the supertigre for an OS .18 CVR, Ive run OS stuff in the past in cars and trucks and they were always pretty good by any measure.. figured I couldnt go wrong.. Novarossi would've been my other choice.. and the one I made was driven by easy availability. I cut the crank, installed a bump start back plate, and used the SV27 collet..

I ordered speedmaster hardware, it isn't a perfect fit but I think its good enough.. I need to make a standoff for the rudder push rod so its in the approx same spot as the original, and I had to hand sand the stuffing tube to fit the strut, so its not exactly bolt on, but its super high quality and it isn't any major modification to use it.. I cut the rudder to be about as long as the stock one. Strut is pushed all the way up, and level.

By the time I had finished sanding the stuffing tube, it had loosened in the epoxy enough I could work it out if I need to, and I have new brass tube here... may do that.. I also ordered a new drive cable from OSE, and I use the Grim prop.

Grim UL1 turn fin, I dont see me ever racing this boat in a spec class, and if its good for the UL it should be good on this. filled out the mounting holes to make it fit the stock holes on the MVD.. to adjust I will have to file some more, but its pretty much neutral now.

I also ordered a mac pipe and header, but looking at it its going to be real close to get it to fit.. I may run the stock pipe a bit longer.

Last year I ran 30% traxxas fuel with extra castor oil added.. I have 2 gallons of 30% heli fuel that Im going to use this year, I am on the fence on whether or not to add some castor to it..

I also noticed that the hull had separated from the stringer on one side.. I pulled it apart and epoxied the hull before ever running it, and noticed that stringer was warped, but didnt check adhesion at that time.. it was probably loose then.. Im going to pull the engine and tank and re epoxy the tops of the stringers before getting out this summer.. hardest part will be getting the epoxy where it needs to be.. I may go get a craft syringe.

Anyway, here are some pics..

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i recommend the use of an octura collet,, it will run more true than the aqua ones,,, also make sure your flywheel is running true to the crank,,, cause the collet will never run true if the flywheel doesnt..... ;) ........ its not just you.,,,, the hulls are mass produced in china and some slip through worse than others but a majority of them are the same... what pipe did you order?????? the issue will be with the header,,, the sweep isnt far enough out,,, the pipe will most certainly hit the radio box....use the factory duece header or use the previous gen header thats used in the sv also.... anything done to that engine?? timing changes,, button changes??
 
I may get an octura collet down the road, but my last SV27 collet was good enough.. and the flywheel is the OS unit, so is the little steel collet behind it, it should be good to go.. Ill check it close before running her, but it looked good when I put it all together.

with the withered stringer from the factory (delaminated and warped) I kinda think I may have got a worse than average boat.. built on friday or somesuch.

We'll see.. it was a mac of towers site, for .20-.21 engines, and I think it will be too big.. there are others that are better, I just need to order from somewhere else.. tower doesnt stock all the mac numbers apparently. I got the right mac header coming but I think you may be right about its size not putting the pipe where I want it.. like I said, I'll just run the stock pipe for a bit.. I will eventually replace this hull with something a little higher quality, a nice sport 20 hull..

Im seriously thinking about doing away with the radio box altogether, I already use 2075 traxxas waterproof servos, and I have a spare traxxas receiiver box.. just seal up the battery and Im good.. leaves LOTS of extra room inside that way.. at that point the proboat elam header would work, and I could do away with the transom exit.. noise is not an issue where I run.. not a few decibels anyway.

Engine is box stock.. I run with buddies that want to keep it fun, as do I, not trying to become much faster than they are :) Just want a good reliable boat...

I'm waiting on the remaining parts for a gas scale hydro to show up too.. once that stuff gets here the work on this one needs to be done, so I can run it and build up the other.. got a 6hp gizmo modified zenoah for that one :)
 
gotcha,, i was not able to see the pics last night...i now see you have the o.s flywheel....you should be good,....never had an issue with the o.s ones...just the aqua ones,,the ferrule is so soft it deforms if over tightened drawing the flywheel crooked........the macs pipe you ordered is most likely an 1120 although it could be one of the 13 series pipes also... if its an 1120 you can reduce the stinger dia, a touch to help make power.... the 1120 imho has toooo much volume for the .18 engines... out of the macs line i like the 1110 for the .18's......

the cvrm will run good for you,,, they are a decent engine..... you will for sure find the mac header has a quick sweep right off the flange,,, it will for sure draw the pipe to close to the radio box and you will have this ugly angle in the pipe setup....

if you were gonna loose the transom exit,,,where do you plan on running the pipe???? out the back of the turbine tube???? there is an issue with this.... this issue becomes making the header longer to put the pipe where you want it.....the longer the pipe gets the lower the engine will rev.... pipe length is very important in these engines..... making it longer will prohibit max rpm,,it will gain you some torque but rpm is whats gonna fly you down the straights... i would reconsider moving the pipe,,,i would also run the new pipe as short as you can.....
 
I got the pipe today, and it wont work for this boat.. Diameter is a hair too large to fit comfortably in the hull, and under the canopy. no big deal, I have an new but old side exhaust .21 with a header and no pipe.. 1985 vintage.. and the mac header actually is the same dimensions as the aquacraft header, so Ill get one of the more appropriate pipes for the vegas. for now the original pipe will work.. I'll just install the bolt through pressure fitting so I can quit dealing with the OE one backing out all the time.

I think with todays shipment I have all the stuff to put it together, should act like a different boat altogether with the changes..
 
If I can keep the fuel outta the hull Ill be happy.. lol.. I will say it was always pretty good on the water, and once started and up to speed it ran good with the supertigre engine, the CV should be an improvement on that, by alot considering the carb problems on the ST.

I also learned a bit more about setup over the winter, and hope to have iit a bit more stable. It wasn't horrible before, but when I watch videos of brushless MVDs and Big Block MVDs stable in the 60s, I see there is room to improve. Gonna play with weight a little bit, I think its a bit light in the nose.. I was thinking moving the RX pack up to the front right corner would help alot in moving the CG without adding weight.. I'll have to play with that and see.

looking forward to a fun summer of playing with boats.. I'd like to race the gas hydro at least once this year just to try it, if I like it as much as I think I will, I'd like to have a couple/few raceworthy boats by next year.
 
Nice boat Doug. Sorry to hear about all your issues with your MVD. I have two MVs (not the duece) and was lucky enough to get solid boats from the factory. I did do a couple things to mine that you might find helpful as well. First thing I did to my boats was sand the inside of the hull and coat it and the engine mounting blocks with another coat of epoxy. You can also add a layer of cloth or carbon if you want to get real tricky. The added rigidity helps a ton when you are belt starting and keeps the hull from flexing. Second, ditch the uprights and wing. It may not look scale, but it removes 6 oz. off the back of the boat. I think if you look around on the forums and can find one of the older (louder) MV tuned pipes it would work better with your OS CVRM than the MVD quiet pipe. If you drill out the hole in the stinger on the old style pipe you will also see a little more power. I also turned the radio box around 180* in my hulls to move the battery forward. It's not much of a difference, but it does help.

Good luck,

Scott
 
Doug, I have my doubts about any MV or MVD stable and actually running 60mph....

But, now that I said that, you have done well with the upgrades. I had a MV (first gen boat, not the deuce) and it was a blast. I had done some sponson bottom modifications to the boat to increase the AOA, and had modded the AQU motor ran a 3280 pipe. That little thing was a blast. Far cry from 60, but it was a blast!!
 
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Yep, 60 may be a stretch.. but Ive seen a brushless conversion in a video that was going pretty good.. Im not expecting that at all with this boat.. a solid 45 would make me happy.

I do think the hull design is good, and I may try to buy a replacement at some point. I did epoxy the hull interior of the boat when it was new, and before there was ever fuel in it., I didn't add any carbon.. I'd probably do that if I do another mvd hull.. and hope for two good, non withered, and attached stringers.. lol..

I like the battery box idea, and I have considered removing the wing..but I like it.. aesthetics are at least semi important to me.. but the new boat doesnt have one, maybe the idea will grow on me.

I will either do the original MVD pipe (great idea, hadn't even considered that option) or the smaller mac pipe. The mac .10 header is a perfect match for the boat, and is much nicer, with a larger smoother exhaust opening, and a gentler bend to the pipe.. slightly smaller diameter but not enough to matter I wouldn't think..

Anyway, looking forward to getting it back on the water, gonna try to burn up 3 gallons of fuel this summer :)
 
I ordered a cooper pipes Quiet Pipe for .15-.18 RTR Hydros.. will this fit I hope? I couldn't find dimensions, they have closed the business, but it sounds like its designed for my boat more or less..

Im wondering about doing something different with the transom exit, maybe 1/2" metal tubing with a trim ring.. I figure I might be redoing the pipe mounting arrangment anyway.. I'll have to see how this new pipe fits the boat.

I also ordered the octura collet.. it was kinda hard to find a source, ended up going with gravesrc for the pipe and collet..

Everything else is near done, and waiting on these last parts. I epoxied the tops of the stringers to the hull, have fuel and cooling lines where I want them.. I need to get the pushrod made for the rudder and throttle, I angled the carb a bit to get the line to run where I needed it and I need to shorten that a bit now.. I also halve a failsafe to install, I ran without last year and luckily had no problems.. not pushing my luck this time around.
 
doug,,,,,call octura,,, they will send you a catalog so you can buy direct from them... the only issue is they only do c.o.d,or you send a check and when they receive it they ship,,no credit cards over the phone.... :( ...... depending on the transom exit you want,,, i can make you one.. as a matter of fact i have one here in a vegas that im not using right now.... be happy to sell it to ya.... just let me know...
 
Graves has it all, and all speedmaster too... in fact they had lots of cool stuff.. I think I've ordered from almost all the major boat parts vendors in the last month though.. that stuff should be here wed, they've shipped already (ordered saturday morning)

I would love to see a picture of what you've done for the exhaust, but I think whatever I do will need to be custom for this boat, the rudder bracket is right next to the outlet.. any trim ring / mounting would have to take that into account. I could probably fab something up using brass tube though.. would flow better and be better sealed than what the rubber hose is anyway..
 
the outlets i make are glued into the hull...... i will post a pic......it seems as though your not looking for help though... seems you have it all figured out... let us know how it goes........ ;)
 
lol, I don't know about 'all figured out".. thats probably overstating a bit :) I like how your transom outlet looks, very finished.. what would something like that set me back?

Hope to be able to call the control systems done today, should get the collet and pipe tomorrow and be able to finish up the driveline and exhaust (except maybe the transom exhaust thing) and at that point she'll be ready for some break in :)

Good thing too, as its on to the next project :)
 
i make and sell those for like 25 bucks plus shipping.. ill sell ya this used one in the pics if you want it,,, 15.00 shipped..... nothing wrong with it,,, ill even toss a polish back on the face of it quick....... up to you man,,let me know....
 
Dude, 15.00 for that is awesome.. I'll take it but it will be a day or two.. pm me your pp info.. if you cant wait, Id probably just take a new one, thats pretty trick..

I worked on the linkages today, think thats all sorted now.. need to set up the fail safe yet.. new collet and pipe tomorrow... should be about ready to make some waves :)

The fuel I want to run is cool power 30% Heli fuel.. Ive read that its 22% oil content, and that heli fuel was acceptable in boats.. is this correct? I also have some racing castor here, would it be wise to add a little bit more oil? seems like its almost excessive already lol..
 
22 percent is more than enough... it will be fine... boat fuel is usually 18-20 percent.....nothing wrong with more lube..... unfortunately i have no time right now to make any new ones... i have other orders to fill.... if you want this one just shoot me the 15 as a gift through paypal at [email protected] .... when ever you can makes no difference to me..... shoot me your mailing addy and ill get it out to you......

alden
 
Thanks for all your help Alden.. I'll PM that addy when I send funds, but its the same as my pp account details too..

The cooper pipe is too big to use with the stock radio box.. I saw you mentioned somewhere else having a wooden radio box, can I see a pic of that somewhere? Im probably going to have to do something about that eventually.. for now its the stock exhaust with a macs pressure fitting.. I want to get this one done so I can run next nice weekend I get and move on to the next project.. installed the octura couple, that IS a nice piece..

My goals should be met by the current state of the boat.. even the stock pipe is close to the radio box. Ill just keep an eye on that for now.
 
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