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Mike Betke

Well-Known Member
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Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
1,101
I tried running my new MTO scale last week and ran into issues with the handling and it wanting to ride up on the turn fin. The fin that I have is a straight wedge on 18 degrees and is in the water approximately 2.75 inches like the direction booklet said. I have some ideas as to what my next move is going to be, but I was wondering what type of turn fin anyone else is using out there on this hull. I have heard a lot of good things about this hull and assume that there are some proven turn fin combinations out there.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
I tried running my new MTO scale last week and ran into issues with the handling and it wanting to ride up on the turn fin. The fin that I have is a straight wedge on 18 degrees and is in the water approximately 2.75 inches like the direction booklet said. I have some ideas as to what my next move is going to be, but I was wondering what type of turn fin anyone else is using out there on this hull. I have heard a lot of good things about this hull and assume that there are some proven turn fin combinations out there.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Mike see if you can get a Tyndall fin the T5 version is a little deeper. I also hear Mike Hughes makes a good round nose fin too
 
Hey Mike,

Attached is a pic of the owner of MTO at the time Doug DeWitte' turn fin on his St. Regis. This boat was very Stout, and would turn with the best of them. It was the best of them for a long period. CHEERS !!! Bob
 
I tried running my new MTO scale last week and ran into issues with the handling and it wanting to ride up on the turn fin. The fin that I have is a straight wedge on 18 degrees and is in the water approximately 2.75 inches like the direction booklet said. I have some ideas as to what my next move is going to be, but I was wondering what type of turn fin anyone else is using out there on this hull. I have heard a lot of good things about this hull and assume that there are some proven turn fin combinations out there.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Hi Mike - I'm not saying this is the answer but I would wedge the fin bracket so that the back edge of the fin is closer to the hull. You would be angleing the fin towards the inside of the race course or to the right. On our Whips and Backlashes we have a curved fin and if the right side comes up all we do is pull it back a little. Hope this helps.

Bob
 
Thanks for the replies. I am currently running the Hughes fin. I am going to make two fins based off of the template that came with the boat. One will still be a wedge, and the other a curved fin like others I have run. I will keep in mind the other options that are out there as well.

Thanks again
 
I tried running my new MTO scale last week and ran into issues with the handling and it wanting to ride up on the turn fin. The fin that I have is a straight wedge on 18 degrees and is in the water approximately 2.75 inches like the direction booklet said. I have some ideas as to what my next move is going to be, but I was wondering what type of turn fin anyone else is using out there on this hull. I have heard a lot of good things about this hull and assume that there are some proven turn fin combinations out there.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Hi Mike - I'm not saying this is the answer but I would wedge the fin bracket so that the back edge of the fin is closer to the hull. You would be angleing the fin towards the inside of the race course or to the right. On our Whips and Backlashes we have a curved fin and if the right side comes up all we do is pull it back a little. Hope this helps.

Bob
Hi Bob, I'll keep this in mind. I think I go down in the shop and get some measurements right now.
 
So your running my fin at 18 degrees? If so, that is your problem. With that much tuck on any curled fin, it will act as a hydro foil. The original MTO ran a flat blade fin with a lot of tuck in them. Set mine to zero degrees and you should see the lift go away. The bottom of the fin should be parrellel with the ride of the boat. You can use a curl fin to tune the ride a bit as well. With the fin bottom pushed forward it will ride the sponson a little higher and turn the boat to the left some. By tucking it back, it will pull the sponson down and to the right some.

Mike
 
I just remembered that I have built some straight blades over the years. Maybe you have one of them. What you got?

Mike
 
I just remembered that I have built some straight blades over the years. Maybe you have one of them. What you got?

Mike
I have the straight fin. It is wedged at 18 degrees. It is a real nice piece of work. It just might not be the right combination for this boat. It was the first time in the water, so I have a lot of tuning to do. I need to find the right combination of strut angle for the ride attitude along with the fin issue. The boat looks like it will want a fin like you described that is at zero degrees and bends or curls at the bottom half of the fin.
 
You need to check the alignment with the hull center. To do this, take a 3 feet straight edge, and clamp it to the blade. I use some aluminum angle that I have laying around. Now you will be able to get a measurement from each end to the center line or inside sponson edge. If you measurement at the front is smaller that the back, then that is your problem. By pushing the blade out further at the trailing edge with 18* tuck it will cause lift. Get that fin back in and your problem with disapate. I bet when you turn left that the hopping goes away. Something that I do so I can adjust the fin and also so that it never moves is run a 4/40 support turnbuckle from the back of the angle mount to the engine rail. Here is a link to what I am talking about. https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=51&pos=17

Mike
 
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I bought 60 turn fin from Mike Hughes and I installed homemake angle alum T6 together turn fin( long), mount engine and custom wood radiobox. I had my sold MTO to my good friend Kevin He found problem solve cut short turn fin so it is good working smooth corner no more hopping .I was suprised that He is very happy with my Ex-MTO "THUMBS UP " May contact to Kevin T more info ;)
 
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When Allan had this boat it was fast in the straights but would hop violently in the turns. After I bought it from him I played with the strut/angle and turn fin. I was able to get a much better running boat with strut changes but was unable to correct it until I took some off the bottom of the turn fin. If I remember right I took 1" off it and it turns great now and I have no issues with it. All hulls are different and your experience with Mikes turn fin could vary. They are a great product and some tweaking to get it just right is always possible.

Kevin
 
Those hulls are sensitive to what type and how the fin is set on them. You definitely want the curved fin from either Mike or Dick Tyndall. The MTO I had ('68 Eagle Electric) ran quite well once the fin was set properly, it needs to be parallel to the inside running edge of that sponson so it tracks at exact same path. Some hulls are more forgiving in this area but this is one hull that is not. Set the turn fin so the blade itself is even with the outside edge of the ride pad and also spend time with setting the attack angle of the fin, you want the curve to be parallel with the boat's running attitude (not necessarily parrallel to your set up board either). Make very small adjustments each time until you hit that "sweet spot" then scribe the fin bracket to mark your position. On the MTO hulls you need to be patient and find the aforementioned sweet spot but once you do the boat will rip the straights and peel paint off the buoys in the turns. :)
 
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Those hulls are sensitive to what type and how the fin is set on them. You definitely want the curved fin from either Mike or Dick Tyndall. The MTO I had ('68 Eagle Electric) ran quite well once the fin was set properly, it needs to be parallel to the inside running edge of that sponson so it tracks at exact same path. Some hulls are more forgiving in this area but this is one hull that is not. Set the turn fin so the blade itself is even with the outside edge of the ride pad and also spend time with setting the attack angle of the fin, you want the curve to be parallel with the boat's running attitude (not necessarily parrallel to your set up board either). Make very small adjustments each time until you hit that "sweet spot" then scribe the fin bracket to mark your position. On the MTO hulls you need to be patient and find the aforementioned sweet spot but once you do the boat will rip the straights and peel paint off the buoys in the turns. :)
That is just the info I was looking for Don. Thanks

I made a curved fin, now all I need to do is find some time to test.
 
Those hulls are sensitive to what type and how the fin is set on them. You definitely want the curved fin from either Mike or Dick Tyndall. The MTO I had ('68 Eagle Electric) ran quite well once the fin was set properly, it needs to be parallel to the inside running edge of that sponson so it tracks at exact same path. Some hulls are more forgiving in this area but this is one hull that is not. Set the turn fin so the blade itself is even with the outside edge of the ride pad and also spend time with setting the attack angle of the fin, you want the curve to be parallel with the boat's running attitude (not necessarily parrallel to your set up board either). Make very small adjustments each time until you hit that "sweet spot" then scribe the fin bracket to mark your position. On the MTO hulls you need to be patient and find the aforementioned sweet spot but once you do the boat will rip the straights and peel paint off the buoys in the turns. :)
That is just the info I was looking for Don. Thanks

I made a curved fin, now all I need to do is find some time to test.
Mike, I have Don's eagle electric The fin looks like a Dick Tyndall= The boat was set-up very well when I bought it. If you need me to take any measurements I'd be glad to.
 

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