MTO ROUND NOSE

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NAMBA860

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Messages
3,718
I RAN MY MTO FOR THE FIRST TIME YESTERDAY AND IT WAS A ROCKET GPS @ 60.01 WITH A MOD OCTURA Y557 ENGINE IS A MOD P67 WITH EXHAUST THROTTLE AND VENTURI. I STARTED WITH A X455 AND ENDED UP WITH THE Y557 ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS OUT THERE WOULD BE HELPFULL. P.S. IN GLASS WATER AND NO WIND THE PORT SPONSON STARTED TO LIFT ON THE BACK STRAIGHT WAY WHAT AN AWESOME SIGHT.
 
I am interested in the responsese here as I am getting ready to build one of these hulls.

Shane, do you have any pics you could share of the radio box, pipe configuration on the boat?

I RAN MY MTO FOR THE FIRST TIME YESTERDAY AND IT WAS A ROCKET GPS @ 60.01 WITH A MOD OCTURA Y557 ENGINE IS A MOD P67 WITH EXHAUST THROTTLE AND VENTURI. I STARTED WITH A X455 AND ENDED UP WITH THE Y557 ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS OUT THERE WOULD BE HELPFULL. P.S. IN GLASS WATER AND NO WIND THE PORT SPONSON STARTED TO LIFT ON THE BACK STRAIGHT WAY WHAT AN AWESOME SIGHT.
 
I am interested in the responsese here as I am getting ready to build one of these hulls.

Shane, do you have any pics you could share of the radio box, pipe configuration on the boat?

I RAN MY MTO FOR THE FIRST TIME YESTERDAY AND IT WAS A ROCKET GPS @ 60.01 WITH A MOD OCTURA Y557 ENGINE IS A MOD P67 WITH EXHAUST THROTTLE AND VENTURI. I STARTED WITH A X455 AND ENDED UP WITH THE Y557 ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS OUT THERE WOULD BE HELPFULL. P.S. IN GLASS WATER AND NO WIND THE PORT SPONSON STARTED TO LIFT ON THE BACK STRAIGHT WAY WHAT AN AWESOME SIGHT.
Make sure you shove the motor all the way up front...Mine runs a 1460-1462 with a Mac
 
4-EST & JAY,

I have the drop sponson MTO round nose. I run sport-60 with speeds at or near 60-61 mph.

Picco-67exr for power, octura 1457, prather p255 & H-29 mod.

Try about 6-8oz inthe port sponson ( about midway ) you can "shift" this forward & back & it makes a big diff.

Don :) :)
 
when my mto lifts the left sponson I just keep the throtle down all the way down the stright and let it hang up there, it looks cool and don't hurt anything and only does it once in a while, don't add any weight out there cause the mto likes to bury the left sponson when full song through a right turn. I put 18 degree recovery pads on the frount of mine ( a little to much) they helped but if gets too big of bite will launch the boat. all problems with the mto seem to go away if you drive it normal and lift off throtle now and then. why can't I do that? nice hull, you will have fun with it. gene
 
Can someone give me the contact info or website for MTO? I may need a "drop sponson" roundnose badly. Any help would be appreciated
 
when my mto lifts the left sponson I just keep the throtle down all the way down the stright and let it hang up there, it looks cool and don't hurt anything and only does it once in a while, don't add any weight out there cause the mto likes to bury the left sponson when full song through a right turn. I put 18 degree recovery pads on the frount of mine ( a little to much) they helped but if gets too big of bite will launch the boat. all problems with the mto seem to go away if you drive it normal and lift off throtle now and then. why can't I do that? nice hull, you will have fun with it. gene
if i keep in the throttle on mine when it lifts it will go over backwards guranteed.
 
try a p265 cut down to a p255 dia size and thin it down till you think it will fly apart (don't even try this with a bronze prop, stainless steel only) shove the strut down at least 1 3/4 inch, no more than 6 to 10 oz on the drive strut, pull the head squish down near to zero, open up the combustion chamber till the plug starts to live on 60 to 80% nitro, run a carb with a low end needle so you can lean the low end to make it snap on will and run that on the lean side, then run the top end on the rich side so when the motor is obout to overheat due to the lean low end needle setting during the mill before the race , bingo, over heated motor with a rich main at the start , you will put out lots more "i'm gone" power that only last for about a lap so you better have the inside lane by then cause now your rich top end needle setting cooled the motor down, although it gave you a good starting blast, now your in the toilet, unless you have a third channel to start leaning on the top end needle and I hope your already on it. is all this really nessary? no. the second you get on the third channel your driving line just went south, (like a dragster driver looking at oil presure gauge and just about went off the track) it all happens that fast. if you run a third channel fuel air setup, better set in frount of the tv and get at one with it before bringing it to the track cause it gets real ugly learning how to drive a third channel on the coarse with other boats. got a few miles behind an mto/ sport 60 and have found that this boat likes controling the water instead of water controling it, or a happy motor (lean side) any time I sent it out with a rich setting the water killed it. I have done better throttle down in the rough as lettin off due to rough water, off throttle sunk it. bouncing off the tops kept it alive, I think hours behind wheel with this boat will produce a winner, as it has very fast accelleration and speed but needs a driver capable of learning and not overdriving its limits. very fun boat, spectators love the dance it does.
 
try a p265 cut down to a p255 dia size and thin it down till you think it will fly apart (don't even try this with a bronze prop, stainless steel only) shove the strut down at least 1 3/4 inch, no more than 6 to 10 oz on the drive strut, pull the head squish down near to zero, open up the combustion chamber till the plug starts to live on 60 to 80% nitro, run a carb with a low end needle so you can lean the low end to make it snap on will and run that on the lean side, then run the top end on the rich side so when the motor is obout to overheat due to the lean low end needle setting during the mill before the race , bingo, over heated motor with a rich main at the start , you will put out lots more "i'm gone" power that only last for about a lap so you better have the inside lane by then cause now your rich top end needle setting cooled the motor down, although it gave you a good starting blast, now your in the toilet, unless you have a third channel to start leaning on the top end needle and I hope your already on it. is all this really nessary? no. the second you get on the third channel your driving line just went south, (like a dragster driver looking at oil presure gauge and just about went off the track) it all happens that fast. if you run a third channel fuel air setup, better set in frount of the tv and get at one with it before bringing it to the track cause it gets real ugly learning how to drive a third channel on the coarse with other boats. got a few miles behind an mto/ sport 60 and have found that this boat likes controling the water instead of water controling it, or a happy motor (lean side) any time I sent it out with a rich setting the water killed it. I have done better throttle down in the rough as lettin off due to rough water, off throttle sunk it. bouncing off the tops kept it alive, I think hours behind wheel with this boat will produce a winner, as it has very fast accelleration and speed but needs a driver capable of learning and not overdriving its limits. very fun boat, spectators love the dance it does.
Gene, can you be more specific! I think your hiding something. What's your real secret? LOL (I had to stick that in!)
 
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