ML Boatworks T-4

[michael winter]

The discovery of these excellent frame kits by Mike prompted me back into 1/8 scale unlimited. Since FE is a very viable option now, this is what I decided on. An order was placed with Mike for the '94 Miss Budweiser T-4 frame along with cowl and wings from RC Boat Company. Graphics will be from Mike McKnight. For power, I chose a Scorpion 4035/800 outrunner to run on 8s through a Fightercat 8s/240 speed control. Running hardware is from Accutech with the rudder from MHZ.

Those that have built up one of Mike's frame kits know how good they are. The photos show where I am at this point.

This is so much fun, I ordered a T-6 frame for a 'future' build.

Mike

 

[hugh hargett]

Nice. Did you already buy the esc? Coz you might want a little head room. Id aim for a 10 or 12 esc. Just a thought. Cant wait to see more.

 

[michael winter]

Yes, I already have the SCU. Ben's speed controls are always built with quite a bit of headroom, so I would not be uncomfortable running this on 10s.

Mike

 

[hugh hargett]

nice!

 

[michael winter]

Today, and I do mean all day :wacko: was spent working on the front wing leading edges. Thses are supplied as pre-cut ply. which are then stacked/glued and sanded to shape. I glued them up last night, and the fun began. First I ran them over my 'very old' Dremel table saw to make initial angles then began sanding by hand. After a few hours, I have 2 matching parts ready to be finish fit/sanded. Have not decided whether or not to overlap the skins onto the LE's or butt them. I wasn't sure about this method, as I have never tried it, but have to say, it works quite well.

 

[Don Ferrette]

I originally had my doubts about the "stacked ply" method vs. single hardwood block but I found it's fairly easy plus when rounding the leading edges the ply strips give you references to make sure you are curving them evenly.

 

[michael winter]

I have a question for all the T-4 experts. Both Mike's kit nad Newton's plans show no trailing edge flap on the front wing. What few photos I have been able to view, appear to indicate there is a tapered trailing edge, or flap on the wing. Any input on which/both is correct?

 

[Propeler]

Hi maybe this will help you

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?app=gallery&image=3917

or look at bob koch's building thread of the t-4

http://www.intlwaters.com/index.php?showtopic=43663&st=45

 

[Propeler]

but i have another question to all the pro's out there.

a seller near by me in germany sells a kind of front canard flaps for this boat, did this boat ever run with this flaps?

I ask because this looks pretty cool.

http://hydromarine.de/Photos/T-403.jpg

Juergen

 

[michael winter]

Made some progress over the weekend. All the wings are skinned. The rear went fairly easy as I could cut the wood so the grain ran with the bends. The front however, could only be cut in a manner that made it more difficult to bend. A little steam took care of that. I also ran a strip down each upper side of the tub for added strength and to fit the cowl to. Next is to trim up all the edges, then start trimming/fitting the cowl. Once all the center section is done, then will install and finish the sponsons.

Mike

 

[BullDogRacing]

but i have another question to all the pro's out there.

a seller near by me in germany sells a kind of front canard flaps for this boat, did this boat ever run with this flaps?

I ask because this looks pretty cool.

http://hydromarine.de/Photos/T-403.jpg

Juergen

Gaday Mate here are some picks with the front cenards on but i myself dont know if they were used under race conditiond thats whats needed to be known.

as the Bud team did lots of trials trying to get this hull to work for them but the items used must have been used under race condition to be on our scale versions .Brad

 

[michael winter]

Thanks for posting those photos.

mIke

 

[michael winter]

I am now at a point that always gives me fits. Making/fitting the pipe deck. My past attempts have been 'acceptable', but would like some input on how others do this. I did look at Don's Valken photos and the result there seems to be simple, I just can't tell what he did. Any input or advice would be appreciated.

Mike

 

[Don Ferrette]

but i have another question to all the pro's out there.

a seller near by me in germany sells a kind of front canard flaps for this boat, did this boat ever run with this flaps?

I ask because this looks pretty cool.

http://hydromarine.de/Photos/T-403.jpg

Juergen

The T-4 was only tested with the canard flaps, never qualified or raced. They tried all kinds of stuff on that boat and Hanauer hated driving it, said he could never really feel what the boat was doing. :blink:

 

[Don Ferrette]

I am now at a point that always gives me fits. Making/fitting the pipe deck. My past attempts have been 'acceptable', but would like some input on how others do this. I did look at Don's Valken photos and the result there seems to be simple, I just can't tell what he did. Any input or advice would be appreciated.

Mike

Check both my Smokin' Joe's builds also.

 

[hugh hargett]

Dons just a skilled one but Im sure he will help you. Mikes always a good one to ask as well ;as he has built obviously a boat he sells. Its looking real good so far though.

Dons being stingy with the valken updates

 

[Don Ferrette]

Dons being stingy with the valken updates

LOL! Not really, to be honest there is nothing to update. Between unstable weather patterns (60 degrees one day 40 the next, etc.) and some unexpected family issues that required sending the wife to Kansas I have not gotten anything new done on the U-7. She's pretty much ready to start getting colors but I need Mother Nature to settle her azz down a bit.............

 

[michael winter]

This is what I came up with for the pipe deck. I added a lip to the transom and to the inner stringers I added. The entire top rail is going to be covered with 1/16" ply, I'll cut the removable section out and it will slide under the back, and be supported on both sides. Will then use a couple of bolts in the front to secure it and they will be under the cowl. Then I can shape the cutout for the pipe after I fit the cowl. Seems simple now, lightweight and no bolts showing.

 

[Mike Luszcz]

Michael, your build it looking great. The workmanship you are showing in your build is really top notch. I know I have not returned your emails over the last couple days, but I am really enjoying the pics! Talk real soon, now back to work for me! Mike

 

[michael winter]

Appreciate the kind words Mike! I cut the removable deck with a razor knife, so IF I cut/fit everything right, I should end up with a very small seam. Will spend most of today adding the 1/16 deck strips to the top rail, then on to fitting the cowl.