Kep's 21 Freebie Outrigger PDF template drawing

[Niklas Edlund]

UPDATE MAY 2010: I have updated the Kep's .21 design to 2010 spec now. See the link here for more info:

http://ne-stuff.blogspot.com/2010/05/keps-21-race-2010-outrigger.html

I have had this idea for a while now, to make one freebie template drawing to maybe promote building outriggers... Hopefully. Do note, its not meant to be a drawing for all of you that want to use it for making alternations or changes etc as it does not include those type of measurements. The idea is to download the pdf's and go to a print shop and to have them print out some copies on drawing paper in 100% size and then you are ready to go...

See my blogg dated Tuesday December 2 (blogg link in my profile footer here below) for the links to the pdf's (that are on the "old" Intl. Waters photoalbum).

Direct link to the Freebie intro: http://ne-stuff.blogspot.com/2008/12/keps-...df-drawing.html

Kep's 21 Freebie basic info:

• Tub lenght: 707 mm / Tub height: 44 mm

• Tub outside width: 76 mm / inside width: 64 mm

• Overall lenght: 738 mm

• Hight under belly: 16-17 mm

• Width between front sponsons: 330-350 mm

• Designed only together with 2 x Futaba S9650 & one S9550 or S9551 servos and one 5-cell NiMH AAA reciver pack

• Weight: 1750 g RTR with no fuel

• Use Divinycell H60 for sponsons

• Use 6 mm Okume/Gaboon marine plywood for the tub sides and most of its bulkheads

• I use "cheap" 8x10 mm carbonfibre tubes and solid 8 mm carbon rods for the sponsons

• Use CMD 21 size engine mounts or make your own, messurements are included in the extras file

• Use a CMD drive line, including flex, strut, rudder etc.

• I will do a "complete" shopping list a little later...

Ps, my 2008 NAVIGA RC Boat World Champion photoalbum is updated now also with all the pics I took in Leno Italy, its 295 pics starting here:

https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=1023

Have fun building!

/Niklas

Updated with pics of Mikael Sundgrens Kep's 21 which the Freebie is based on.

Update December 3: About 30 people downloaded V1.1 drawings. The PDF's are updated to V1.01 now. Cooling tube views are also included. Oops.

Update December 4: I have uploaded an additional PDF for those that want to use an "car engine" as I do (Sirio). Use it for visuals only, use the other one for the templates etc. See my blogg for links.

 

[RaceMechaniX]

Niklas,

Thanks for taking the time to post this and draft high res PDF's. It will certainly help me with my design.

Tyler

 

[shoboat]

Niklas,

Enjoyed the pictures a lot, thanks for posting them.

You may need to design a more aero-profile cowl

for the Zoom-21 carb it will be worth the effort.

Happy Holidays,

Mark Sholund

 

[Niklas Edlund]

Hi Mark,

Thanks & no worries. I hope it will increase peoples interest to build a rigger themselves...

Ps, and slightly off-topic (but still Kep's 21 related) - the Zoom 21 carb could be just slitghtly narrower over the fuel inlet nipple. Its really close inside our cowls, or actually its rubbing slightly as its now... Its really a work of art though.

/Niklas

Niklas,
Enjoyed the pictures a lot, thanks for posting them.

Happy Holidays,

Mark Sholund

 

[Niklas Edlund]

Sweet.

/Niklas

Niklas,
Thanks for taking the time to post this and draft high res PDF's. It will certainly help me with my design.

Tyler

 

[opio]

very nice!! i have a 21 i need to find a home for and i just did thanks you!!!!!

 

[Terry Keeley]

Nice design, thanks for "putting it out there", I too like to encourage guys to build their own stuff, keeps costs down and can be very satisfying!

Even a tank template too!

 

[TomMoorehouse]

Wow.... thats great! Niklas has great designs! and very detailed!

 

[Niklas Edlund]

Terry: tanks

Tom: thanks

Opio: thanks

Mark: I might do another cowl... We'll see. Its not so much a new aero-design that is needed - more like elbow room...

Updated December 3: Even though as Tom said, the drawings are kind of detailed, Im not perfect - far from it... LOL. The pdf's are updated slightly this morning to V1.01 with included views of the cooling tube through the radiobox. Oops. The bulkheads already had those holes marked out but I forgot to update the views of the tub with that also. It might not be the last update...

I also forgot to mention that I have a new design of Kep's 21 "09" in the works. Im doing the first boats right now. That "09" design might be available as Paypal download with an included PDF build manual. A little like Tom is doing with his FF boats. That wont be ready until the sping of '09 though and as mentioned that one wont be a freebie. Sorry. B) The Freebie will always be an Freebie though.

 

[MitjaJ]

Nice plans Niklas !

I hope more people that build their own boats would make steps like this.

 

[opio]

thanks for the update!

 

[Niklas Edlund]

Opio: You're welcome.

 

[Niklas Edlund]

I made an additional drawing today at the afternoon coffee brake. Its an visual drawing for those that use a "car engine" as I do (Sirio) together with an 180 deg header etc. All dimensions and holes are the same, U just dont need to have the horizontal bulkhead in the radio room for the pipe mount that thick as its not used for the pipe mount any more. Do note also that there can be space problems regarding the normal Kalistratov/CMD needle and the pipe (depending on what exhaust header you use = how close the pipe is to the needle). And U really want an shorter starter belt also when using a 180 deg header motor in this boat... Personally I use an 11" version of the Duraflex belt - then its quite easy to get it down in the tub and under the cowl etc. -> Duraflex GL COG 2L 110.

 

[dschigoda]

I made an additional drawing today at the afternoon coffee brake. Its an visual drawing for those that use a "car engine" as I do (Sirio) together with an 180 deg header etc. All dimensions and holes are the same, U just dont need to have the horizontal bulkhead in the radio room for the pipe mount that thick as its not used for the pipe mount any more. Do note also that there can be space problems regarding the normal Kalistratov/CMD needle and the pipe (depending on what exhaust header you use = how close the pipe is to the needle). And U really want an shorter starter belt also when using a 180 deg header motor in this boat... Personally I use an 11" version of the Duraflex belt - then its quite easy to get it down in the tub and under the cowl etc. -> Duraflex GL COG 2L 110.

Thanks for the detailed drawings and photos! Very cool! I like the paint scheme too. Interesting rear sponsons.

So, are you happy with how this design runs? I assume it's designed for heat racing, correct? How did you do at the races with it?

Dave

 

[Niklas Edlund]

Hi & Thanks Dave,

"Interesting rear sponsons" -> U mean the drawings or some of the photos...? Some of the photos is of another set or rear shoes... If you look at the black and orange boat in my introduction note its a "pre-Freebie" belonging to a friend of mine (Mikael Sundgren). I have built and painted the sponsons and pre-built the main frame of the tub but that was for my Sirio engines so he re-located one bulkhead to give room for an horisontal bulkhead for the pipe mount and finnished the deck and bottom etc. And yes, the black and orange is cool. On my boats I clearcoat the tub and paint everything else fluo orange. The rear sponsons of that boat (including mine) we changed by simply gluing or taping an wideninng extension that also acts like an step. That is already corrected/updated after the season and is whats are in the PDF drawings... Its not ment to duplicate the prototype on the pics so to speak...

Yes, its designed for tight heatracing only. It turns incredibly good! The latest rear sponson design (width and step) and the mounting position (height) together with the long "wheel base" & wide front sponsons stance makes it very stable - I think.

The rear sponsons now truly act as support without and straight away drag and its way easier from the pontoon and it doesnt alter its ride in the turns or when throtteling etc.

If somebody would like to test some additional things I would suggest making the right front sponson "V" angle flat as in zero dgrees. To give more support to the fin etc. But we havent tested that ourselves (yet) but Im shure that could make it even better. In my new 09 version I have some other untested things and we'll see how that works - that will be an Paypal boat though... B)

There is not so many guys racing in Sweden but some are really fast. I won the two nats I raced at this year and Im the national champ here this year in 3.5 (also in 2006). At the NAVIGA worlds in Italy I was fast but I took the wrong choice of boat for my first qualifyer (I have an backup boat also) so I had an DNF as in zero points for my first heat (all 4 q-heats count so its very important to get points from all q-heats). In my second heat I safed it (a safe prop & pipe as to get points) and in most other heats that would have been fast enough but amazingly there was 3 other thats was slightly faster then me or made a touch better start so I was fourth... The remaning heats I won. But the zero points from heat 1 was bad. So I q:ed 9:th in total and was "BQ" so to speak but at the worlds there are no B finals and the first 8 start from scratch in four final heats... But my boats had at least top-3 speed so it would have been fun in the finals...

Seriously I truly beleive its as good as any other 3.5 rigger - this side of the pond anyways.

 

[orb_dharma]

Hi Niklas,

Great blog you have, the information you've put up is very thoughtful & resourceful. Two Thumbs Upz Mate........

Dharma

Singapore

 

[opio]

once again i really like your design, i was wondering what kind of speeds you have gotten out of the heat race set up? also as i know very little about riggers do props mean more to the motor or hull? i have read that a prop can really change the ride. if that is the case any thought on what you like best?

 

[Aaron Johnson]

I have had this idea for a while now, to make one freebie template drawing to maybe promote building outriggers... Hopefully. Do note, its not meant to be a drawing for all of you that want to use it for making alternations or changes etc as it does not include those type of measurements. The idea is to download the pdf's and go to a print shop and to have them print out some copies on drawing paper in 100% size and then you are ready to go...
See my blogg dated Tuesday December 2 (blogg link in my profile footer here below) for the links to the pdf's (that are on the "old" Intl. Waters photoalbum).

Direct link to the Freebie intro: http://ne-stuff.blogspot.com/2008/12/keps-...df-drawing.html

Maybe I'm going blind or something but where can I find these pdf files to download??? I click on what I thought were them and all I get are gallery pics. thanks

 

[Niklas Edlund]

I have had this idea for a while now, to make one freebie template drawing to maybe promote building outriggers... Hopefully. Do note, its not meant to be a drawing for all of you that want to use it for making alternations or changes etc as it does not include those type of measurements. The idea is to download the pdf's and go to a print shop and to have them print out some copies on drawing paper in 100% size and then you are ready to go...
See my blogg dated Tuesday December 2 (blogg link in my profile footer here below) for the links to the pdf's (that are on the "old" Intl. Waters photoalbum).

Direct link to the Freebie intro: http://ne-stuff.blogspot.com/2008/12/keps-...df-drawing.html

Maybe I'm going blind or something but where can I find these pdf files to download??? I click on what I thought were them and all I get are gallery pics. thanks

Hmm, actually the URL's to the PDF's have changed... I will correct them on my blogg also later today.

Here is the main one: https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/albums/userp...eebie-V1_01.pdf

"Sirio" version: https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/albums/userp...Sirio-V1_01.pdf

Extras file: https://www.intlwaters.com/gallery/albums/userp...xtras-V1_01.pdf

 

[Niklas Edlund]

once again i really like your design, i was wondering what kind of speeds you have gotten out of the heat race set up? also as i know very little about riggers do props mean more to the motor or hull? i have read that a prop can really change the ride. if that is the case any thought on what you like best?

Hi Jeremy,

My guess is in racetrim between 65 and 70 MPH - do note thats a guess... Its plenty here that can verify that these speeds are rarely seen when you actually race your rigger with other boats on the water etc. And at least here the driveability is way more important then top speed... The top-speed is for bragging mostly... At least here it doesnt matter how fast you win, you just need to finnish with all other boats behind you - thats enough for 400 points.

There is very few boats that can be in "lane 1" doing 70+ MPH in race water with other boats. Most of the time those boats (if on pipe etc) are way out in lane 4 or 5 and they can never catch you... Thats my 2C anywho. But that said, we try and go faster all the time but not sakrifying the drive and throtteling etc.

Less propeller means in general one with less cup = less speed but more drivable in general (if too small it doesnt load the engine enough though so it goes like crap) and easier at launch from the pontoon etc. Yes, the propeller can change the ride of the boat but mostly I think its mostly "just" because it makes the boat faster (or slower).

If your prop, set-up, motor, pipe etc isnt in tune you can try and change the set up on the boat to make it go "faster" but when the motor combo "comes to live" so to speak you need to trim the boat back down on the water... Its the same as setting up a boat on your own on good water and then at a race its riding way too light on the front sponsons.