is this header ok?

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anthony_marquart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2003
Messages
3,745
I'm running this header and I'm wondering if there is any disadvantage to the sharp curves.

I don't think I'm getting the RPMs I would like to see,,, motor still new though... 1/2 gallon through it... Do you guys think a motor is broken in by this point? Still very tight at the top...

oops,.. forgot the link..

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLE1&P=ML
 
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I've got an idea that you want to use it on a .21 'rigger right? I bought 2 headers very similar and with a 'rigger it might go out too far for that use. I'd much rather use a Nova Rossi header even in a mono.
 
Go out too far? you mean outside the boat? IT actually fits real tight..

I've got an idea that you want to use it on a .21 'rigger right? I bought 2 headers very similar and with a 'rigger it might go out too far for that use. I'd much rather use a Nova Rossi header even in a mono.
 
New JAE style hull, NR 5port/ new, AB Parabolic pipe.

Thanks

Anthony,

Need more info. Boat and engine especially.

I prefer the NR headers with any NR IB engine. The curve is gentle with no sharp turns and I believe it is more efficient and effective. Glenn has them and they are not $$$. I have the 21 JAE with a NR LS and use the standard header and it runs very well.
 
i agree with john & ron. i've never run a car/truck header in a boat, but i have run a NR header in a truck. increased performance a lot. changed it because the truck header had sharp bends like the one in your link.
 
I'm running this header and I'm wondering if there is any disadvantage to the sharp curves.

I don't think I'm getting the RPMs I would like to see,,, motor still new though... 1/2 gallon through it... Do you guys think a motor is broken in by this point? Still very tight at the top...

oops,.. forgot the link..

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLE1&P=ML
Truck headers are way to long to bring the pipe length short enough for the higher RPM's, also 1/2 gallon of fuel dosen't give the piston enough time to lap into the liner, probably to early in the break in process to be leaning down for max RPM"s. I like to take the head off during the break in and pull the liner out and turn it sideways at a 45 degree angle and rotate the cylinder while looking below the TDC combustion line looking for streaks starting at TDC and going down the chrome towards the bottom of the liner. These streaks represent areas where the piston has not lapped in yet allowing some flame blow by. By taking the time and waiting for the area below TDC to polish and shine the seal, piston to liner fit will last much longer.

Hope this helps

****
 
thanks ****,. I have shortened the header to get a range of 7.5-8.5 on the pipe. IF length is the only issue I'll keep using it,.. at least for now.I'll take it easy on the needle for a while yet.

I'm running this header and I'm wondering if there is any disadvantage to the sharp curves.

I don't think I'm getting the RPMs I would like to see,,, motor still new though... 1/2 gallon through it... Do you guys think a motor is broken in by this point? Still very tight at the top...

oops,.. forgot the link..

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLE1&P=ML
Truck headers are way to long to bring the pipe length short enough for the higher RPM's, also 1/2 gallon of fuel dosen't give the piston enough time to lap into the liner, probably to early in the break in process to be leaning down for max RPM"s. I like to take the head off during the break in and pull the liner out and turn it sideways at a 45 degree angle and rotate the cylinder while looking below the TDC combustion line looking for streaks starting at TDC and going down the chrome towards the bottom of the liner. These streaks represent areas where the piston has not lapped in yet allowing some flame blow by. By taking the time and waiting for the area below TDC to polish and shine the seal, piston to liner fit will last much longer.

Hope this helps

****
 
thanks ****,. I have shortened the header to get a range of 7.5-8.5 on the pipe. IF length is the only issue I'll keep using it,.. at least for now.I'll take it easy on the needle for a while yet.

I'm running this header and I'm wondering if there is any disadvantage to the sharp curves.

I don't think I'm getting the RPMs I would like to see,,, motor still new though... 1/2 gallon through it... Do you guys think a motor is broken in by this point? Still very tight at the top...

oops,.. forgot the link..

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLE1&P=ML
Truck headers are way to long to bring the pipe length short enough for the higher RPM's, also 1/2 gallon of fuel dosen't give the piston enough time to lap into the liner, probably to early in the break in process to be leaning down for max RPM"s. I like to take the head off during the break in and pull the liner out and turn it sideways at a 45 degree angle and rotate the cylinder while looking below the TDC combustion line looking for streaks starting at TDC and going down the chrome towards the bottom of the liner. These streaks represent areas where the piston has not lapped in yet allowing some flame blow by. By taking the time and waiting for the area below TDC to polish and shine the seal, piston to liner fit will last much longer.

Hope this helps

****
I happen to have one of those headers from my truck, if U have modded the header, (shortened the header) by cutting in front of the last angle, the header will work just fine as long as U can shorten it to the proper legth.

I have a question on the geometry of that header? When the first angle is 148 degrees and U need 180 degree angle to keep the pipe from sticking out the side of the boat, how does that work?

****
 
I would not run a header with such tight bends unless I had to for packaging reasons. My guess is you are losing atleast a little hp or rpm.
 
thanks ****,. I have shortened the header to get a range of 7.5-8.5 on the pipe. IF length is the only issue I'll keep using it,.. at least for now.I'll take it easy on the needle for a while yet.

I'm running this header and I'm wondering if there is any disadvantage to the sharp curves.

I don't think I'm getting the RPMs I would like to see,,, motor still new though... 1/2 gallon through it... Do you guys think a motor is broken in by this point? Still very tight at the top...

oops,.. forgot the link..

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLE1&P=ML
Truck headers are way to long to bring the pipe length short enough for the higher RPM's, also 1/2 gallon of fuel dosen't give the piston enough time to lap into the liner, probably to early in the break in process to be leaning down for max RPM"s. I like to take the head off during the break in and pull the liner out and turn it sideways at a 45 degree angle and rotate the cylinder while looking below the TDC combustion line looking for streaks starting at TDC and going down the chrome towards the bottom of the liner. These streaks represent areas where the piston has not lapped in yet allowing some flame blow by. By taking the time and waiting for the area below TDC to polish and shine the seal, piston to liner fit will last much longer.

Hope this helps

****
I happen to have one of those headers from my truck, if U have modded the header, (shortened the header) by cutting in front of the last angle, the header will work just fine as long as U can shorten it to the proper legth.

I have a question on the geometry of that header? When the first angle is 148 degrees and U need 180 degree angle to keep the pipe from sticking out the side of the boat, how does that work?

****
****, someone makes a coupler that has a bend in it. i believe it is intended for NR style headers that are cut short enough to be into the bend, but should work with the truck header. i can't remember who makes it, but i know they exist.
 
I heated my N/R Header carefully with a torch until I achieved the proper angle and distance.It is in a cowled SGX.

I have seen people use that header and thought of trying it myself.

I wonder if you could get the pipe length short enough.

As far as the motor break in,N/R has a very tight fit and I ran mine without any

watercooling, It seemed the only way to keep it hot for break in.

Tim
 
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