Hydro Bottoms Set up on Digital Protractor

[Joe Warren]

Some Boat Mfgers have you set there Hydro boat up with digital protractor numbers these are all relative to the tub being level and zeroing the protractor on the tub before you begin. Has this proven to be a better set up? Remember you are Only measuring a area of the boat and sponson that will be in contact with the water at WOT all Sponsons trailing edges. A boat must be able to mill good speeds and be able to Step Up to the angles you have made perfect?? & what about the areas in front of the area you are measuring . They are equally important... especially left to right sides of the boat. The Hydro Runs on these unmeasured areas before it is able to accelerate UP to the Full speed area of the Sponson.. ??? Still a lot of questions setting up like this??

 

[steve wood]

Some Boat Mfgers have you set there Hydro boat up with digital protractor numbers these are all relative to the tub being level and zeroing the protractor on the tub before you begin. Has this proven to be a better set up? Remember you are Only measuring a area of the boat and sponson that will be in contact with the water at WOT all Sponsons trailing edges. A boat must be able to mill good speeds and be able to Step Up to the angles you have made perfect?? & what about the areas in front of the area you are measuring . They are equally important... especially left to right sides of the boat. The Hydro Runs on these unmeasured areas before it is able to accelerate UP to the Full speed area of the Sponson.. ??? Still a lot of questions setting up like this??

my set up is waaaaaaaaaaaaay better!

 

[Elias Vazquez]

Some Boat Mfgers have you set there Hydro boat up with digital protractor numbers these are all relative to the tub being level and zeroing the protractor on the tub before you begin. Has this proven to be a better set up? Remember you are Only measuring a area of the boat and sponson that will be in contact with the water at WOT all Sponsons trailing edges. A boat must be able to mill good speeds and be able to Step Up to the angles you have made perfect?? & what about the areas in front of the area you are measuring . They are equally important... especially left to right sides of the boat. The Hydro Runs on these unmeasured areas before it is able to accelerate UP to the Full speed area of the Sponson.. ??? Still a lot of questions setting up like this??

my set up is waaaaaaaaaaaaay better!

You care to elaborate??

 

[steve wood]

Elias knows!

 

[eekern]

On a jae the ride surface is flat so an angle at the trailing edge is the same the entire ride surface. I know on my old hawk and firefighter the ride surface did curve but were flat the last couple inches. Even at milling speeds not much of the sponson is in the water making this type of setup pretty accurate and consistent. Jm2c

 

[Tom Foley]

I'm a fan of "If it ain't broke don't fix it " in a way . Yes , you still have to check things but the Extreme 80 platform has proven to be one of the best for up to .91 engines . Never tried RS engines in it but with the fuel load , std strut setup and standard AOA it's a slot car , a fast slot car . Same tanks for .80's as .91's . I think if I spent more time( ANY TIME ! !) on increasing right side AOA I could reduce right sponson toe in and pick up much more speed .

 

[Joe Warren]

I'm a fan of "If it ain't broke don't fix it " in a way . Yes , you still have to check things but the Extreme 80 platform has proven to be one of the best for up to .91 engines . Never tried RS engines in it but with the fuel load , std strut setup and standard AOA it's a slot car , a fast slot car . Same tanks for .80's as .91's . I think if I spent more time( ANY TIME ! !) on increasing right side AOA I could reduce right sponson toe in and pick up much more speed .

Tom something to consider. the props you are racing are surface drive props. they suck a certain amount of air into the suction side of the prop. Just like you powering the trim up on your SVT while under full power. At one point you begin to suck More air and less water and the boat speed drops. ( especially true on a hydro cause the tunnel is directing the air to blow across the top of the props while running) Our Nitro engine are turning twice the RPM so the Air intake to the suiction side of prop is more critical. You ease those props down to decrease the air suction and increase the Water the boat goes faster.............. But this holds the back of the boat up a bit....... and causes the nose to be in a negative angle. So many other things begin to change to get max water across the props and the boat balanced to go MAX Speeds. The Roadrunner Twin that you are running is balanced very very well up to 101 engines and the 25.5 tanks ea needed to operate them for 10-12 laps. Roadrunner twins boats perform best with more considerable TE cup Not Center of Blade Cup. Cause it lowers the thrust cone of the prop and hooks the rear of the boat up.

 

[Albert Araujo]

I set up all my riggers using the digital protractor. You obviously need to start with a good boat design and then use the digital protractor to fine tune and blueprint you perfect set up. I can tear my boats down, re build, set up with my digital protractor and go race in a heat. It works awesome for me.

 

[Rick Reisinger]

Some Boat Mfgers have you set there Hydro boat up with digital protractor numbers these are all relative to the tub being level and zeroing the protractor on the tub before you begin. Has this proven to be a better set up? Remember you are Only measuring a area of the boat and sponson that will be in contact with the water at WOT all Sponsons trailing edges. A boat must be able to mill good speeds and be able to Step Up to the angles you have made perfect?? & what about the areas in front of the area you are measuring . They are equally important... especially left to right sides of the boat. The Hydro Runs on these unmeasured areas before it is able to accelerate UP to the Full speed area of the Sponson.. ??? Still a lot of questions setting up like this??

my set up is waaaaaaaaaaaaay better!

Steve

I have E-mailed through your sight on the Black Bird Hydro trying to get the best setup , and got no answer.

Please e-mail setup and info to [email protected] .............

BLACK BIRD 1 {HAVE AQUIRED 2 OF THEM }

Rick Reisinger

 

[steve wood]

I don't have any.chris built the boats and made up the instructions,i made the hardware.i sent him the email.i know he has lost the first generation instructions, due to a computer crash. I think he still has the g2 instructions

 

[SayMikey]

Some Boat Mfgers have you set there Hydro boat up with digital protractor numbers these are all relative to the tub being level and zeroing the protractor on the tub before you begin. Has this proven to be a better set up? Remember you are Only measuring a area of the boat and sponson that will be in contact with the water at WOT all Sponsons trailing edges. A boat must be able to mill good speeds and be able to Step Up to the angles you have made perfect?? & what about the areas in front of the area you are measuring . They are equally important... especially left to right sides of the boat. The Hydro Runs on these unmeasured areas before it is able to accelerate UP to the Full speed area of the Sponson.. ??? Still a lot of questions setting up like this??

my set up is waaaaaaaaaaaaay better!

Steve

I have E-mailed through your sight on the Black Bird Hydro trying to get the best setup , and got no answer.

Please e-mail setup and info to [email protected] .............

BLACK BIRD 1 {HAVE AQUIRED 2 OF THEM }

Rick Reisinger

The Blackbird you got from Jason was mine and it was setup fine.If the turnfin was removed that will be the key to getting it right again

 

[Chris Wood]

yes the 1st gen instructions are gone forever.. if you want know something just ask away.

but here goes

fronts. 4.0 - 4.5 ( again depending on the boat and how loose you like it )

strut.. FLUSH WITH THE REARS AND NO DEEPER.

angle 1.5 - 1.75 NEGATIVE. ( again flush with the rears )

on that boat full blade prop of choice was a 1450 with barr cut and 3.75 cup on a nova rossi with a ops 3280 pipe at 8 1/8

turn fin.. push down so the bolts are on the top of the slots.. the further back the slower it turns.. more forward the faster.. i start in the back and go further if needed.. the critical area is THE HOOK BE FLAT WITH THE BOTTOM OF THE BOAT OR DOWN slighly at the back.. NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER.......... EVER have the back of the fin UP. it will plow. hook and drive like a 5yr old kid with a outboard lol.

one other thing.. MAKE SURE the TUBE HIGH the boat is UP HILL SLIGHTLY FRONT TO BACK shook for 1/16 up at the nose.. i never ever ran it down hill at all

chris

 

[shoboat]

Joe,

What hooks up the rear of your boat is not just the cup on the propeller blade?

Look at your strut weight again. I think Tom has found the right set up

with his propellers. There is a lot more to do with the propellers on our boats still.

We are working with some new materials that may be even better.

Enjoy The New Year,

Mark Sholund