help.....New ro boating

[joshmastrobuono]

New to boating...bought a big fiberglass boat.... stuff does not look right compared to my brushlesa

 

[joshmastrobuono]

I feel like this is backwards and that that brass peice on front was welded to flex shaft....

 

[joshmastrobuono]

Here is with the prop pulled out...

Should it be like brushless boats where flex shaft goes to the wnd

 

[Ron Olson]

The drive is set up for a square drive collet, not the round cable setup that you're used to. Somebody cobbled it up as you probably know by now with your electric boats you need to be able to pull the cable for greasing. You can't do it properly with that collet ahead of the strut without unsoldering it. Normally it should have a set screw there to hold it in place. Generally there are thrust washers on each side of the strut, those a MIA also.

What you want to do now is up to you. If you'd like to convert it over to like what's on your FE boat it'll cost you some but not a lot of money but if you decide to keep it this way then it will still need some work if you want it done right.

I'm just not a fan of the square drive setups but that's me. A square drive like that pushes at the transom whereas a round cable drive pushes at the engine. Hull manufacturers take that into consideration when they design a hull.

 

[joshmastrobuono]

So was that brass collet fixed there cause something broke... i feel like that back piece is backwards to...The sharp edge sgould face foward.. If I turn it around the brass collet will no even fit in front.....

 

[Ron Olson]

I think that somebody lost a set screw so in being as cheap as possible soldered that collet on. It's hard to tell if the strut itself is backwards from the shot. The taper on it should be forward but if it's backwards it really won't be affected at speed.

 

[eric stockon]

i had that same strut at one time , the strut is on there backwards the brass cone deal at one time was pressed into the tube on the strut and the stuffing tube fit into the brass cone deal

or i could be completely wrong...........lol

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

OK, Enough of all the "speculation" As for the brass farrel, most DO solder them to the flex shaft The hard stub shaft that runs through the strut "should" be held into the Farrel with a couple of set screws .

As far as the strut being backwards, Yes it is backwards, but some boaters DO turn them around to extend the prop farther aft.

As far as the "flat side" of the strut blade facing forward, this is on NO concern on your set up, as it is completely out of the water on a surface drive.

They are also used in the backwards configuration by some sport hydro builders for the same reason. they just remove all of the skeg from the bottom of the strut.

So as far as your set up, it just needs to be cleaned up IE: rough edges deburred and run it as assembled, it is fine that way

 

[Ray Sametz]

OK, Enough of all the "speculation" As for the brass farrel, most DO solder them to the flex shaft The hard stub shaft that runs through the strut "should" be held into the Farrel with a couple of set screws .

As far as the strut being backwards, Yes it is backwards, but some boaters DO turn them around to extend the prop farther aft.

As far as the "flat side" of the strut blade facing forward, this is on NO concern on your set up, as it is completely out of the water on a surface drive.

They are also used in the backwards configuration by some sport hydro builders for the same reason. they just remove all of the skeg from the bottom of the strut.

So as far as your set up, it just needs to be cleaned up IE: rough edges deburred and run it as assembled, it is fine that way

And that prop is as dull as whale sh#t.

 

[JimZaremski]

OK, Enough of all the "speculation" As for the brass farrel, most DO solder them to the flex shaft The hard stub shaft that runs through the strut "should" be held into the Farrel with a couple of set screws .

As far as the strut being backwards, Yes it is backwards, but some boaters DO turn them around to extend the prop farther aft.

As far as the "flat side" of the strut blade facing forward, this is on NO concern on your set up, as it is completely out of the water on a surface drive.

They are also used in the backwards configuration by some sport hydro builders for the same reason. they just remove all of the skeg from the bottom of the strut.

So as far as your set up, it just needs to be cleaned up IE: rough edges deburred and run it as assembled, it is fine that way

And that prop is as dull as whale sh#t.

nice attitude towards a new boater.

 

[FloridaScaleBoater]

OK, Enough of all the "speculation" As for the brass farrel, most DO solder them to the flex shaft The hard stub shaft that runs through the strut "should" be held into the Farrel with a couple of set screws .

As far as the strut being backwards, Yes it is backwards, but some boaters DO turn them around to extend the prop farther aft.

As far as the "flat side" of the strut blade facing forward, this is on NO concern on your set up, as it is completely out of the water on a surface drive.

They are also used in the backwards configuration by some sport hydro builders for the same reason. they just remove all of the skeg from the bottom of the strut.

So as far as your set up, it just needs to be cleaned up IE: rough edges deburred and run it as assembled, it is fine that way

And that prop is as dull as whale sh#t.

nice attitude towards a new boater.

How can you come across with a statement like that? I was mearly straightening out all of the "Miss Guided Advice"

And steering the OP in a clear and correct direction?

 

[moparbarn]

I "think" that may have been directed towards RRRay, RRRick. But i agree, that prop needs attention, you CAN kill any setup with a pos prop - RRRobin(-;

 

[boatking]

what kind of boat is it?is it worth putting the extra money in it to make it right?if it where me i would get a new strut for it and a new shaft and mabey a new prop for it.you mat want to check if everything eles is ok by asking in this fourum. it might help you

 

[Daniel's Racing]

OK, Enough of all the "speculation" As for the brass farrel, most DO solder them to the flex shaft The hard stub shaft that runs through the strut "should" be held into the Farrel with a couple of set screws .

As far as the strut being backwards, Yes it is backwards, but some boaters DO turn them around to extend the prop farther aft.

As far as the "flat side" of the strut blade facing forward, this is on NO concern on your set up, as it is completely out of the water on a surface drive.

They are also used in the backwards configuration by some sport hydro builders for the same reason. they just remove all of the skeg from the bottom of the strut.

So as far as your set up, it just needs to be cleaned up IE: rough edges deburred and run it as assembled, it is fine that way

And that prop is as dull as whale sh#t.

nice attitude towards a new boater.

How can you come across with a statement like that? I was mearly straightening out all of the "Miss Guided Advice"

And steering the OP in a clear and correct direction?

It was about time someone that knows what the are looking at gave the man some good advice. The posts above his were mostly off base.

It isn't a collet it was a ferrule. It doesn't have to be unsoldered to remove or grease. You pull the whole strut off as a assembly and the whole works slides out of the square drive collet on the engine.

He was merrily explaining that most of what is there is how square drives are usually done.

I was about to post the same. What were those guy's talking about. Lol.

About the only thing wrong is the lack of thrust washers between the ferrule and the strut hence the reason for the mushrooming otherwise it was common setup.

Flex shafts are often silver soldered into the ferrule. You would never have a ferrule with setscrews on the flexshaft. Come on.

The ferrule is not on backwards look at the leading edge it is tapered. If it was turned around the ferrule would not have enough room to fit between the strut and the transom.